Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Head Gasket Job, and questions

[JoshPeters]

I wouldn't pull the head with even 3 people. Work smart not hard. Working hard means someone is gonna get hurt. You only get one back. Those heads are heavy. They aren't bad outside the truck, lifting it from way out at the ends of your arms... . no good. I'd get a cherry picker for a day. I'm sure someone up there has one you can borrow. I'd borrow ya mine... but it would cost more to ship it than to buy a new one.



Josh

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Originally posted by 1dslram

Vaughn:

You can get them from Summit for the Cummins for about $350. 00 for the ARP studs Summit #ARP-247-4203.

I just checked Summit Racing and the studs are $459. 95

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Jegs

Whew, Jegs has 'em for $356. 99



ARP PN 247-4203

 

[dpuckett]

Head Cracking

I thought it was mainly an issude with the older, non- intercooled trucks with the 9mm injector holes. The shorter space between the injector hole and intake valve seat is close enough, a crack develops between the two. Especially if your head gasket's water holes are crudded up enough to allow only a pinhole amount of water through. Probably why mine cracked in the first place- nowhere for the hot water to go. BTW- I have run the head for 30K mi, cracks and all, and have had no problems I can detect. Guy at the machine shop said he'd seen them on Case tractors run with bigger cracks and be just fine. They run at 100% load most of the time, vs 100% load for me at <10% of the time.....



-DP

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Injector Removal!!!

I now have the head off, and more questions:



What the heck thread size is the fuel line connection at the top of the injector? I read to use a lug nut but I tried one off every vehicle on the property and nothing came close to fitting



2) What is the retaining bolt size, like 26mm or so??



3) Should I replace the valve stem seals?



Engine looks great for 352k, no ridge at all, hone marks to the top of the bores Oo. The injectors looked major nasty, huge chunks of carbon/deposits totally covering the tips, it's amazing it ran as good as it did



Vaughn

 

[Rhondasway]

Vaughn, I have extensive experience with this particular endeavor. Take the head in and have it checked/decked. If you can get your hands on a straight edge, clean the block, "block" sand it too, then check it with a true edge. If you're going to put in 60# springs, now is the time. You can have a valve job done too and replace the seals if you want it just right.

Your injector retaining nut is a 15/16 deep, I think. The lug nut from your Ram will fit on your injector. Shame on you pulling your head without taking the injectors out first... Using a picker to lift and lower that head is a good idea not only to save body strain, but to ensure no scraping of the head or worse, damaging the new head gasket.

The studs are debatable. If I were you, I'd spend less money, have it O-ringed, then use new stock bolts. Yes, bolts have issues, but I happen to know of at least one person running regular 80lbs boost and never blown a head gasket; just O-ringed and stock bolts. Do at least 2 re-torques (Piers or Jason can advise on this). Do not forget to do a valve adjustment after each head torquing!!!!!!

As far as thickness of head gaskets, there is an issue of compression with a single turbo: material off of head+thin gasket+high boost (How high? Don't know where the line is... ) = danger. The thicker the gasket, the less your drive pressure will contribute to excessive compression (or so I understand). Of course, spooling can be an issue with lower compression... but a PDR HX35 will solve that! See how much has to come off your head and go from there...

Don't forget to clean and dry your bolt holes in the block, and put anti-seize on your injector retaining nuts.

BTW, if you haven't replaced the rubber fuel return line, NOW IS THE TIME!! So hard to get to with the head on, so easy with it off...

Enjoy!!

 

[Partyat33]

I am sure this has been covered before but I will anyway. I torqued my head bolts per the manual. I believe it was 90 fl-lbs and 1/4 turn. It has been heat soaked several times now. It has o-rings and stock (new) head bolts. I really don't want to break a head bolt. What is the recommended retorque values ???



Thanks (twins are being fabricated this week)



Dennis

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Heya Rhonda! Thanks for the reply, haven't heard from ya in awhile



Yep I know head removal with injectors in place is a no-no, but at 352k I think they're pretty well "used up. " I used a hoist and didn't hit the tips on anything though and they're still good for sure as cores.



I started doing a mild port job last night and expect to finish tonight. Just opening up the bowls and ports a little.



I tried a straightedge on it already and it looks good but I'm taking to a shop when I'm done and have it checked and a valve job. Not sure if I'm doing new seals 'cause I saw some posts of guys having trouble with new ones coming loose and working up the valve stem. The valves look great. It's amazing this engine looks like a 50k-mile motor inside. No valve stem or guide wear, they're nice 'n tight when you try to wiggle 'em around.



While the head is off I plan to replace the fuel return hose and tab the KDP, and I may pull the radiator and have it gone through.



Regarding head gaskets I was planning on stock thickness but maybe . 010" over would be a better idea in regards to cylinder pressure.



Thanks again Rhonda, drop me an email sometime -- email address removed --



Vaughn

 

[Rhondasway]

Vaughn, you should come to the Randy's/Piers event in September; it would be nice to see you!

I thought I also remembered someone mentioning an ATS manifold... Just thought I'd mention that I am still using the stock one from my '97. John Treibel ported the bolt holes when I got my first turbo upgrade, and although it has shrunk over time, I've had no problems. That manifold has about 250,000 miles and has seen many rounds of the hightest temps (enough to melt pistons), outliving 2 heads... My twins are currently running on it. That may not be the best idea, but does go to show that spending the extra several hundred is not always necessary.

Do have your radiator done, and definitely take your intercooler and have it checked as well. This is very inexpensive and if I'd had mine checked sooner, I could have saved myself a few thousand $... :{

 

[Forrest Nearing]

Vaughn,



radius the valve seats into the deck of the head... and get a good valve job... it'll help flow a lot, and the radius will also serve to lower compression slightly



Forrest

 

[EBottema]

Hey-



how did you find the truck, what did you get it for?



Join the club with the sweetest lifelong truck... the 12v cummins 5spd Sick Dana Axles!



erik

 

[Hohn]

I little bird told me that there are some trucks running 70psi using the gasket from the HPCR trucks. Simple gasket, 12mm studs, no leaks. No ringing of any kind.



jlh

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Thread size of Head Bolts!

Getting ready to reinstall the head. Want to chase bolt holes with tap. What is the thread size??



And does anyone have the REAL torque specs for a '96? I did a search and came up with THREE different answers



Vaughn

 

[crabman]

Torque Specs

Vaughn,

My '95 book from Chrysler states this:

Step 1.

Tighten all bolts, in sequence to 66 ft. lbs

Step 2.

tighten all 12mm bolts (Nos. 4, 5, 12, 13, 20 and 21) in sequence to 89 ft. lbs.

Step 3.

Tighten all bolts in sequence and additional 90*.



Hope this helps you & good luck.

crabman

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Crabman, I assume those at 89lbs are the long bolts?



Thanks man!



Vaughn

 

[crabman]

Vaughn,

Yes, you are correct.

My error.

Step 2 should be:

Tighten all LONG 12 mm bolts, etc

crabman