Here I am

Head Gasket took a ***** this morning!

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Shop location for clutch work

Fuel Filter O-Ring

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Well Greg,



Your right, I do know the tricks now. I did some things differently when I reassembled it to make it easier on myself, like installing the injector lines before I put the rockers and pushrods in, that made it alot easier. I did reuse the old exhaust gaskets,and they don't seem to be leaking. Everything else checks out and runs great,good thing!



I just got back from the car wash, where I spent about an hour and six cans of degreaser on the whole mess to get it clean. Now ya can't even tell it ever happend.



Thanks to everyone for their advise and tips,and a special Thanks to Greg (Lsfarm), for his parts fetchin' on his way home from work,that saved me a bunch-a-time, and his help with lowering that heavy pig into place, Thanks Greg!



One final note, if you remove the head, it's real easy to access the pump wire!!:-laf :-laf :-laf





Later Guys, Rob
 
AHHhhhh!



THAT explains *MY* oil seepage at the front of the engine, over on the passenger side - directly under the exhaust port on #1 cylinder... In my case, when the engine is running, I can also see what looks like very small vapor bubbles in that same area - unless it is actually oil bubbles...



In any event, gotta get it taken care of - wonder if there is a "new, improved" - or recommended replacement gasket that is adviseable for a mildly bombed early '91?
 
Just Got Back From May Madness

WOW!!! Had fun at MM:)



QUOTE:



"Do you sell those copper gaskets? Or just use them with the o-ring jobs?"



Yes, I keep standard thickness copper gaskets in

stock 12v/24v. For MADDOG, who's engine we O-ringed this weekend at MM, I had a . 020 over solid copper gasket made for his 12v engine. We will be installing twin turbos on this dozen valver so he's going to be running over 100 psi of boost.



I need to update my sig.



600 hp on #2 fuel only

12. 8 et @ 112 mph
 
head gasket took a ***** today

Speedo is right about the hydraulic lock. many people disregaurd that. anti freeze will also make a hydro locK . Too much lubrication (grease) can make a pneumatic lock on a clean hole. Hydraulic locks can crack castings. torquing in stages will prevent warpage, lets things "settle in" and allows for pneumatic locks to escape through the threads before you do you final torque down. I had a couple of Bombed tractors here on the farm for several years and had very good results with letting the engine set for a few minutes between torqings. Only had to pull heads when we melted a piston:--)
 
Sorry Ram, i tried to move Dseabaugh's reply to here and it changed the title of your post to what he used :confused:



i cant figure out how to rename this post, now that i have merged them :D





it all still here, just under this title.
 
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