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Head gasket?

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Exaust Manifold Torque

Mille4212

TDR MEMBER
Ok guys, I need to know if there is a better head gasket than the stock one? I'm going to start tearing the truck down tomorrow afternoon and hopefully send the head out Monday to be checked. Also with running around 37 to 40 psi is it worth doing the studs or just run the stock bolts :confused:.
 
I spoke with Cometic the other day and they are testing both a Phuzion gasket and an MSL gasket. I was willing to try and hold off until I found out the phuzion gasket was going to sell for about $550 and the MLS was going to be about half of that. The guy said they did not recommend reusing any gaskets so that would be pretty expensive. I'm going with stock gaskets, 12 mm studs, and o-rings. If I need to do more I can follow it up with fire rings. Incidentally, the head that came off my truck with about 280,000 miles on it was a USA cast head and it was flat within a couple of thousandths of an inch so it's good to go.



I think the consensus is a stock gasket with a good flat head and studs will easily hold the boost levels you are talking about.



Scott
 
a marine gasket is all metal and superior to stock but not as exotic or expensive as o-rings, at 40psi studs arent required but never a bad insurance.
 
Hey thanks for the reply guys, I think I'll go with the marine head gasket and do the studs. I got the head off today so I guess I'll take it in tomorrow and get it checked.



Thanks again,
 
Just making sure that you know... . The marine gasket will need to be modified to work on a 24v. It is missing some holes needed for water/oil passages. I was going to use one & was told that it was thicker than a stock 24v too & would lower my compression. I used a 24v cummins gasket, 12mm studs & orings.
 
Hey thanks for all the replys I do appreciate it. I talked to Rocky Mountian Cummins and that guy said the part numbers were the same for stock verses marine. So I went ahead and bought the stock one. Do you think that will be a problem? Cause they were out of stock so I'm waiting on Cummins. Thanks to Source I got my head studs today. I also got the machine work done in 1 day for 65. 00 and it was out . 006.

Thanks againg guys,
 
most places charge between $300-400 for an o-ring job, and if you buy a marine gasket already modified to fit a 24v from Doug Smith at Performance Diesel Warehouse its about $200.
 
Right on thanks again guys. One more question for ya. On the saddles for the intake and exaust valves they have a dot or a bump on one side, does it matter which way it goes?
 
Let's get this straight. Cummins uses/produces three headgaskets for the B Series. All of which are 'marine' headgaskets, as renegade found out when he called Cummins. They are standard thickness, . 010 oversize, . 020 oversize. If you had . 006 taken off the head, I would use at least the . 010 oversize HG, not the stock/standard thickness. Exchange the stock one you bought.
 
If you had . 006 taken off the head, I would use at least the . 010 oversize HG, not the stock/standard thickness. Exchange the stock one you bought.



If he does that the compression will be lower. However the original piston to valve clearance will be back to what it was but that's usually not an issue on a stock cam/rpm engine.
 
Ok guys the machine shop said I'd be ok with the stock head gasket, so thats what I went with. I've torqued the head as per ARP instructions. Now I'm down to installing the rockers and those rocker saddles or bridge between the two valves. Can someone tell me what way those dots or oval hole's go?
 
My dots were pointing in different directions I think...

The important is that they are installed in the same place and in the same direction as they came off...
 
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