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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) head issues

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) How much blowby?

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission First time pulling w/pics

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I have a 98 12v just changed the headgasket 2 months ago due to oil in the antfreeze. Was good for about 2000kms now its using lots of antifreeze you can smell it when its runing. What the heck and also had the head clean shaved and inspected. im really frustrated becuase i spent to much on it already what should i do??? :{
 
Probably the last thing you want to... pull it and put on a new head gasket, assuming the problem is that it didn't hold.



I don't think, once its started leaking, you can adequately "repair" it. You just have to replace it.



Did you do studs? Consider it if you R&R the gasket. Double check the flatness of the deck and head, just to make sure. Also, did you do a re-torque after a couple of warm-ups/cool-downs? Generally considered a good idea.



Unfortunately, that's one of the perils of doing a head gasket. The end result is not always guaranteed.



Don't shoot the messenger!

-Jay
 
I had the head cleaned at alberta engine in calgary alberta. They shaved it enough to make it clean and flat new valves were installed and i had the head mechanic at bishops diesel come over and R&R it for me to save on cousts. and hes said the cylnders and block looked like new.
 
Did anyone retorque the bolts after it was run? or even line torque them? Could be after a few heat cycles, a bolt or 2 mighta stretched on ya..... And were the bolts checked to spec the first time around?
 
You don't re-torque these bolts if using OE hardware unless people are going by a specific torque value rather than the 90 deg. turn. They are torque to yield as far as I know. The final step is a 90 degree turn. If you use studs then you MUST re-torque several times. I learned this the hard way by doing only one re-torque.
 
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so do you think i just blew another gasket because i never tourched them. but we did do the 90 deg on it. Are studs better and what kind of gasket is the best? and were would i locate them in calgary alberta? thanks
 
I can't answer why your current head gasket failed assuming that's for sure the problem. Do you have a compression leak, as in is it filling your overflow bottle and not sucking it back in? How much boost do you run? If the head and deck were in good shape and the job was done with care there is no reason for a leak so I don't know what to say. My cousin's 97 is still doing just fine and all I did to it was flatten the head clean the deck real good and put it back together with the stock bolts. My stock gasket finally blew compression out at 247k while towing and running up to 38 psi boost in sub-zero weather so that's why I went ahead and put it back with studs. So far so good at 295k but I'm only letting it boost up to 30 right because much more then that is mostly pointless on a stock HX35.



The stock gaskets are now the marine version so no need to ask for any special gasket when ordering or whatever. I don't think you can even get the old style. My '98 came stock with the marine version. '97 and older had the other gasket.



Sorry I can't be more help but it sounds like the head must come off again.
 
If you reused the head bolts they problably stretched enough to allow it to leak again thats what happened to me but I helped it allittle by adding stick and timing.
 
i guess im going to remove the head next weekend to see what happened should i go ahead and maybe order new head bolts to be safe? which is the best gasket to go with?
 
i guess im going to remove the head next weekend to see what happened should i go ahead and maybe order new head bolts to be safe? which is the best gasket to go with? And im running 35 punds of boost and 60- 70psi of oil pressure.
 
Before you pull the head you should pull the oil cooler and have it tested just to make sure you don't have a bad core. Its less work to pull. If it tests good and you pull the head take a close look at the oil passages that pass through the head gasket there are 6 of them. They use a silicon seal around the 6 holes. If you don't see any signs of leaking past the silicon seal into a water passage its not the gasket. While the heads off have it pressure tested.

The other thing I would do before doing any of the above is add some engine coolant dye tracer to the cooling system and run the engine long enough to get the dye circulated in the system. pull the valve covers and pressurise the cooling system. With a black light start looking, you should also remove the rocker arms and push tubes. Look down around the tappets. This inspection would be best carried out with the engine warm.
 
JKure said:
order new head bolts to be safe? which is the best gasket to go with?



If you re-used the old head bolts, that is most likely the cause of the problem. I never reuse old head bolts.



My uncle did a hg on a farm tractor a while back, the new gasket didn't even last 2 days. Found out he reused the bolts. After a new gasket and bolts, it is still holding.
 
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