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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Head light switch replacement

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Transmisison Removal

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 1995 2500 4x4 Reg Cab Trade

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Replaced my headlight switch tonight holy cow it's nice to have bright lights again . Replaced my headlight assembly's a couple months ago that helped a lot but lights were still dim this switch made a new truck out of it again I did get a wire crossed somewhere and now I have no fog lights or dash lights both dash light fuses are good . We have a tiny bit of fog here tonight which makes it so easy to see where the headlights are shining to adjust them
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Drilled some holes for air flow to cool the switch just got home from a 2 hour drive with lights on old switch was so hot about couldn't touch it
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Do the relay harness mod to power the headlights directly off the batteries and they'll be even brighter and you will not have any more switch problems.

If the switch was too hot to touch I'd say you have the dash light dimmer turned way down if not off.
 
Nope I always leave the dimmer all the way up becuase I knows when you dim em it's builds resistance and heat . All this stemmed from my failed attempt to keep the fog lights on while on high beam I overheated the switch and the relay inside the switch would kick out
 
I went ahead and ordered a new switch connector. I can't seem to figure out what ive done wrong connecting wires to the switch. The manuals wiring diagram doesn't seem to be much help obody has A pic of the connector that shows where each wires sits in the connector???
 
Ok guys I need some advice before I go in the mental hospital . I've tested every wire and every fuse and as near as I can tell I've got a bad new light switch I just went out and wiggled the switch just right and all lights came on . Is there something I am missing on replacing the switch how do I install the pull knob because when I put it in it doesn't feel right I think that might be the problem so do I just shove it in till it bottoms out??
 
Yes, push it in until it stops. There is a little button on the side of the switch that you push to release it. Maybe push it in while you're pushing the stem in. The last switch I replaced was due to that issue, the switch just didn't "feel" right when pushing the knob in and out. The lights quit working totally but would come on if you wiggled the stem just right.

I'd probably just take the switch back for a new one.
 
Got a new switch still no change replaced the harness connector still nothing but head lights unless you pull the switch about half way between the first click on the switch then they all come on
 
Not sure where you bought the switch but in my experience the after market switches are very low quality compared to oem.That also applies to the connector quality. I would never use solderless connectors on any important circuit.If you buy the old headlamp relay switch/wiring package( CAJM8190 ) you will also get a heavy duty relay all for a good price,last time I used one it was about a c note
 
Not sure where you bought the switch but in my experience the after market switches are very low quality compared to oem.That also applies to the connector quality. I would never use solderless connectors on any important circuit.If you buy the old headlamp relay switch/wiring package( CAJM8190 ) you will also get a heavy duty relay all for a good price,last time I used one it was about a c note

All I know is have no light dash or clearance or fog lights I've checked all fuses they are good what else can I check. .maybe I finally cooked through something from my failed fog light attempt does the multi function switch have anything to do with the fog lights\ easy lights ? I can get clearance lights and fogs buy pulling the switch part way between the first detent. Also my multi function has been making a weird noise when I signal #@$%!#@$%!;)
 
You may have received another bad switch. I received 3 bad switches in a row from Advanced Auto. All of them had issues with dimmer, cargo lamps, etc. They did not have another brand to give me, so I bought one from Auto Zone. This one operates and feels solid. Geno's has a Mopar switch too. The after market switches are cheap POS. I'd try another switch from another manufaturer before I'd do anything else.
 
I also once got a bad headlight switch for my 1993 W300 right out of the box from NAPA.

That being said, it seems to me that it IS possible that the highbeam switch contacts in the mfs not working correctly and screwing up the operation of the headlight switch. NOT sure how you would do further diagnosis except by parts replacement, which gets expenisve,
 
I'd probably just take the switch back for a new one.

You may have received another bad switch.

I also once got a bad headlight switch for my 1993 W300 right out of the box from NAPA.


That's what I was trying to tell him. Maybe he misunderstood.

I think I have a headlight switch from my wrecked '95. I had replaced it once. I'm not sure what manufacture the switch I have is. I'll try to look tonight.
 
If I remember when I get home, I'll post a wiring diagram. I think it unlikely that the MFS is causing that many different issues. But you did mention that you're getting some type of noise from it.
 
Thanks guys . Yes the multi function switch sounds like a little motor running sometimes . I got two switches one from o Riley's and one from car quest both Borg Warner brand . I will call dodge and see if they have one in stock
 
I've pulled as much of my hair out that I'm going to I hate to but I guess it's going to a reputable shop and we all know how well that turns out
 
What i can't figure out is everything was working with the old switch just really dim head lights but now the old and the new switch are doing the same thing
 
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