head light switch???

[JBrookshire]

Just had a head light switch blow out. I got the funkey oder in the cab the hole nine yards I went to local parts store and got a new switch. then I changed it and one wire was burnt out. So i got the new one on and put silicone around and in it. will I have future problems with this switch? Or what? And what is the cause of this? I have went back and looked at the last post on this but no one said if the store bought switch will last???? Please help me before this happens again. ****Justin

 

[drives mopars]

try this

find wire for the running lights

run that to a relay

to power running lights

then hook relay direct tobattery



i plan to do this too



bill

 

[scott4glamis]

Justin go to the dealer and get the repair wire harness for the switch, then take the wire that controls the running lights and run it to a relay then connect the lights to the relay. if you need more help with a wiring diagram post again and i'll help out. use pn AR204 from NAPA.

 

[mark93]

Hi Justin.



The basic problem is that when the copper switch to harness connectors corrode they get a little less conductive which generates more heat than normal. The heat accelerates the corrosion and, eventually, when it progresses to a certain point, the plastic connector holder in the harness and the plastic of the headlight switch melt due to the heat from the copper components.



The replacement switch has chrome plated male connectors and the replacement wiring harness has chrome plated female connctors to reduce corrosion that results from heating. This chrome plating is the key-it resists oxidation MUCH better than copper.



I've had mine fixed for over a year and everything is fine. When I spiced the harness in I DID NOT retape the harness at the splice because of heating. That portion of the harness has the wires in open air so that the heating effect produced by the slight resistance increase of the splice does not get concentrated. The instuctions say to stagger the splices to aviod this problem but leaving about 3" of space for the splices to get air worked for me.



The replacement switch/connector easily handles the full load of the truck lights, but do not add anymore to the circuit-especially on 350 models. Use a relay instead.