In order to finish my truck my truck this week, Rob said he had to have a head that day. I was able to locate one at Rocky Mountain Cummins. So Rob got that one to the machine shop the same day. Didn't want to have to pay for a brand new head but at least I should get that many more miles out of it down the road.
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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Head, Porting, Gasket, ARP 625 Head Stud Recommendations
- Thread starter MMcCallie
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Old Head Pics
Didn't get it done last week. The motel bills are really adding up and I'm losing even more money taking unpaid leave from work. Rob swears he'll have it done no later than Tuesday. He and I were both surprised that my pistons are in such good shape. He says the bottom end seems to be in fine condition but that I may need a Fluid damper to quiet down some gear noise on the front end.
The cracks in my old head are so small they are hard to see with the naked eye. He said the head was a good unit, think he called it the "Storm" head and he was surprised it cracked between two pistons. It was easier to see the evidence where the coolant had been burning at the top of the cylinders than the cracks themselves.
New head is from Mexico, haven't seen it yet, still been at the machine shop. The leaking head gasket was not a factory Cummins unit, different color print. So the engine had been opened before. Rob says even though the cracks are tiny, they could have been enough to have been causing my overheating problems all along. Head was likely cracked when I got the engine.
One huge sign of overheating I remember him pointing out was how shrunken my exhaust manifold is. Bolts were bent and have to be replaced. He plans to just hog out the holes on the manifold so it will bolt back up.
Turbo was so seized up it initially wouldn't turn by hand. Probably from the months when I had no working thermocouple for my pyrometer. It is spinning freely now. He said the oil had dried hot and that I need to change oil more often. I also obviously have to let it cool better before shutting down. One of the reasons it has been smoking too much, low on power, having high EGTs in town, and getting very poor fuel economy is that the boost line going to the AFC was busted. With all of the modifications he plans to make he's aiming for a max of 1,300 degree EGTs, around 42 psi boost, about 600 hp, no more surging, and virtually no smoke.
I took some pictures of the old parts with my phone, the detail is very poor.
Didn't get it done last week. The motel bills are really adding up and I'm losing even more money taking unpaid leave from work. Rob swears he'll have it done no later than Tuesday. He and I were both surprised that my pistons are in such good shape. He says the bottom end seems to be in fine condition but that I may need a Fluid damper to quiet down some gear noise on the front end.
The cracks in my old head are so small they are hard to see with the naked eye. He said the head was a good unit, think he called it the "Storm" head and he was surprised it cracked between two pistons. It was easier to see the evidence where the coolant had been burning at the top of the cylinders than the cracks themselves.
New head is from Mexico, haven't seen it yet, still been at the machine shop. The leaking head gasket was not a factory Cummins unit, different color print. So the engine had been opened before. Rob says even though the cracks are tiny, they could have been enough to have been causing my overheating problems all along. Head was likely cracked when I got the engine.
One huge sign of overheating I remember him pointing out was how shrunken my exhaust manifold is. Bolts were bent and have to be replaced. He plans to just hog out the holes on the manifold so it will bolt back up.
Turbo was so seized up it initially wouldn't turn by hand. Probably from the months when I had no working thermocouple for my pyrometer. It is spinning freely now. He said the oil had dried hot and that I need to change oil more often. I also obviously have to let it cool better before shutting down. One of the reasons it has been smoking too much, low on power, having high EGTs in town, and getting very poor fuel economy is that the boost line going to the AFC was busted. With all of the modifications he plans to make he's aiming for a max of 1,300 degree EGTs, around 42 psi boost, about 600 hp, no more surging, and virtually no smoke.
I took some pictures of the old parts with my phone, the detail is very poor.
We worked until 2:30am Wednesday morning and I finally headed out at 3:15am, drove until about 6:20 and made it home a little after 4
m, just in time to shower and make it to my night job. Rob had some setbacks that morning, I waited for him at the shop for almost two hours Tuesday morning. By 2:30 he said he was too tired to continue.
Unfortunately, I couldn't wait another day and the truck is tuned horribly. Our first run had a horrible smell and no power. The back three valve covers were leaking significantly. The head studs were sticking up too high so he had to put the studs in further down and retorque. I made adjustments to the transmission with my PCS while we drove. After I solved a boost leak the truck made a best run of just over 42 psi and 1,300 degrees. The truck still felt very slow, didn't have the pep it used to. No smoke whatsoever.
The tuning went downhill from there. We got only a tiny puff of smoke but EGTs got well over 1,500 and boost dropped to barely 32 psi. I hadn't watched everything he did to modify the AFC so I'm not sure I want to make a whole lot of adjustments myself. After several runs and a lot of scratching our heads and getting frustrated, he figured out that he would have to get further into it to make the right adjustments. I'm hoping I can find time to get all the way down there in the near future.
I topped off in Laramie and getting Evanston I'd burned almost 2/3 of a 44 gallon tank. I must be getting about 10 mpg, the worst fuel economy I've ever gotten, especially empty on the interstate. Once I got to Evanston at 7,000' I now have even less boost, about 29 psi, and EGTs climb even quicker. Smoke is now absurd and spoolup is much slower. I can actually hear the engine bog down as the black smoke rolls out.
The engine sounds entirely different. Once we got the truck running, we heard a very loud, low pitch thumping sound coming from the passenger side of the engine. Rob said he'd never heard that before but figured it is just the way it turned out from the massive porting he did. It sounds like a huge air compressor, or maybe like a cross between a Harley Davidson and a helicopter. Very different. At an idle, the turbo is pulling way harder, can really feel it barehanded.
He'd forgotten the new manifold would move the intake elbow back so he had to build a new custom one. He welded some bungs on the backside. The weld at the peak of the bend ended up coming to a very sharp angle that looks oddly sharp instead of a smooth curved arc. He offered to make a better looking one which I think would be a good idea as it doesn't accurately represent his quality fabricating skills. He built this one in a hurry, it works.
Initial throttle response is greatly improved, at least from off the bottom end. I'm sure that once the engine is tuned it will be far more responsive. I'm just surprised by how badly it is running right now. I'm going to have to click back the star wheel and slide the plate back just to clean it up and try to drop EGTs. I was really surprised by how little smoke we saw in Colorado turned into so much in Wyoming.
When we were looking again at my old head we found a very large crack down one of the valve guides that had previously gone unnoticed. I'll try to post a pic of where the white line where the coolant was leaking made it stand out. Also found out my DDP injectors have the better sac style nozzles. He had them pop tested and raised the bar on a couple. And my intake and exhaust valve springs which I thought were 60 lb, turned out to be 140 lb racing springs. We also discovered my new lift pump is leaking, my 3rd or 4th in only 2 years. Probably time for a FASS. There is also a loud ticking noise from the front of my engine that is probably the geartrain. Not sure if a Fluidamper will eliminate that or not.
Another concern I now have is that there is a very noticeable amount of fresh oil on my driveway. Will be a few days before I have time during the day to try to locate the source but the valve covers looked dry at a glance. Ultimately, the project really didn't get finished and needs quite a bit more attention. I'll try to get more pics posted and inform if any tuning makes improvements. He mentioned a smoke screw and I'm not sure what he was referring to, perhaps the star wheel? Anybody know of another smoke screw in the AFC or on a P-pump?
m, just in time to shower and make it to my night job. Rob had some setbacks that morning, I waited for him at the shop for almost two hours Tuesday morning. By 2:30 he said he was too tired to continue. Unfortunately, I couldn't wait another day and the truck is tuned horribly. Our first run had a horrible smell and no power. The back three valve covers were leaking significantly. The head studs were sticking up too high so he had to put the studs in further down and retorque. I made adjustments to the transmission with my PCS while we drove. After I solved a boost leak the truck made a best run of just over 42 psi and 1,300 degrees. The truck still felt very slow, didn't have the pep it used to. No smoke whatsoever.
The tuning went downhill from there. We got only a tiny puff of smoke but EGTs got well over 1,500 and boost dropped to barely 32 psi. I hadn't watched everything he did to modify the AFC so I'm not sure I want to make a whole lot of adjustments myself. After several runs and a lot of scratching our heads and getting frustrated, he figured out that he would have to get further into it to make the right adjustments. I'm hoping I can find time to get all the way down there in the near future.
I topped off in Laramie and getting Evanston I'd burned almost 2/3 of a 44 gallon tank. I must be getting about 10 mpg, the worst fuel economy I've ever gotten, especially empty on the interstate. Once I got to Evanston at 7,000' I now have even less boost, about 29 psi, and EGTs climb even quicker. Smoke is now absurd and spoolup is much slower. I can actually hear the engine bog down as the black smoke rolls out.
The engine sounds entirely different. Once we got the truck running, we heard a very loud, low pitch thumping sound coming from the passenger side of the engine. Rob said he'd never heard that before but figured it is just the way it turned out from the massive porting he did. It sounds like a huge air compressor, or maybe like a cross between a Harley Davidson and a helicopter. Very different. At an idle, the turbo is pulling way harder, can really feel it barehanded.
He'd forgotten the new manifold would move the intake elbow back so he had to build a new custom one. He welded some bungs on the backside. The weld at the peak of the bend ended up coming to a very sharp angle that looks oddly sharp instead of a smooth curved arc. He offered to make a better looking one which I think would be a good idea as it doesn't accurately represent his quality fabricating skills. He built this one in a hurry, it works.
Initial throttle response is greatly improved, at least from off the bottom end. I'm sure that once the engine is tuned it will be far more responsive. I'm just surprised by how badly it is running right now. I'm going to have to click back the star wheel and slide the plate back just to clean it up and try to drop EGTs. I was really surprised by how little smoke we saw in Colorado turned into so much in Wyoming.
When we were looking again at my old head we found a very large crack down one of the valve guides that had previously gone unnoticed. I'll try to post a pic of where the white line where the coolant was leaking made it stand out. Also found out my DDP injectors have the better sac style nozzles. He had them pop tested and raised the bar on a couple. And my intake and exhaust valve springs which I thought were 60 lb, turned out to be 140 lb racing springs. We also discovered my new lift pump is leaking, my 3rd or 4th in only 2 years. Probably time for a FASS. There is also a loud ticking noise from the front of my engine that is probably the geartrain. Not sure if a Fluidamper will eliminate that or not.
Another concern I now have is that there is a very noticeable amount of fresh oil on my driveway. Will be a few days before I have time during the day to try to locate the source but the valve covers looked dry at a glance. Ultimately, the project really didn't get finished and needs quite a bit more attention. I'll try to get more pics posted and inform if any tuning makes improvements. He mentioned a smoke screw and I'm not sure what he was referring to, perhaps the star wheel? Anybody know of another smoke screw in the AFC or on a P-pump?
There is a set screw on the back of the AFC diaphragm that is the pre-boost fueling screw..... I have an idea of what he is going to mod on the AFC housing. If it isn't done already like grind a little off the slide portion of the foot so it will pull completely out of the way with the plate FF... . tune the star wheel with regulated air sot he AFC foot moves all the way back at a set boost level... ... things like that.
Finally finding out some of the reasons my truck has been in such bad shape after Rob worked on it. The way he adjusts valves is totally different from the standard by the book timing pin, top dead center, rotate 360 degrees method. He approximately turns the engine until one valve is down and adjusts the opposite high side.
Rob didn't know why my engine was making such a loud thumping sound when we finally got it running with lots of starting fluid, said he'd never heard that before. My local mechanic told me in his experience on big trucks it is usually because the valves are misadjusted. He was right.
Only two were right but mostly the intake valves were over tightened and the exhaust side were loose. One of the exhaust valves was an entire 1/8" off. That was my noise and probably the reason I've been getting such horrible mileage and having hard starts. Now my engine at least sounds like it used to at idle, smoother and quieter, no more thumping. Still a high pitch whizzing sound at higher boost levels that I have yet to track down, sounds like possibly a boost leak in the intake elbow.
Another thing is that the throttle linkage somehow got out of alignment so I wasn't getting full fuel. Haven't solved my next problem yet to see if I can improve the measly 33 psi boost, 1,600 degree EGTs, and black smoke at over 90 mph after the valves were adjusted correctly. Not back on the road yet because of the oil leaks.
It looks as though my rocker arm pedestals were not milled like ARP's instructions require. The tops of some of my valve covers have paint chipping off the tops where they are bowing over the head studs. My valve covers not sitting down into the valve cover gaskets is the cause of my very noticeable oil leak.
My local mechanic and I are trying to figure out what to do as we have no access to a machine shop to mill the rocker arm pedestals as was originally supposed to be done. Rob had ground the webbing on the inner roofs of the valve covers but that is not nearly enough, we need about another 1/8" inch. We're thinking of using a hole saw to create space in the top of each valve cover above each head stud then tap those holes for threads and use hollow brass fill plugs as caps to create space. We're concerned with how little thread surface the valve covers will allow and strength. We may also try to just heat them with a torch and beat on them but we figure they are cast and will perhaps not have good results.
I'm very unhappy about having to pay someone else to fix what I just paid to have done because it wasn't done right the first time. Still haven't adjusted the governor arm and unsure about the AFC though I've adjusted the smoke screw, aneroid, and cam plate. Once the oil leaks are squared away I'll be able to readdress my extreme loss of power and drivability. I'm really hoping nothing in the porting or custom manifold is causing the grossly decreased performance.
Rob didn't know why my engine was making such a loud thumping sound when we finally got it running with lots of starting fluid, said he'd never heard that before. My local mechanic told me in his experience on big trucks it is usually because the valves are misadjusted. He was right.
Only two were right but mostly the intake valves were over tightened and the exhaust side were loose. One of the exhaust valves was an entire 1/8" off. That was my noise and probably the reason I've been getting such horrible mileage and having hard starts. Now my engine at least sounds like it used to at idle, smoother and quieter, no more thumping. Still a high pitch whizzing sound at higher boost levels that I have yet to track down, sounds like possibly a boost leak in the intake elbow.
Another thing is that the throttle linkage somehow got out of alignment so I wasn't getting full fuel. Haven't solved my next problem yet to see if I can improve the measly 33 psi boost, 1,600 degree EGTs, and black smoke at over 90 mph after the valves were adjusted correctly. Not back on the road yet because of the oil leaks.
It looks as though my rocker arm pedestals were not milled like ARP's instructions require. The tops of some of my valve covers have paint chipping off the tops where they are bowing over the head studs. My valve covers not sitting down into the valve cover gaskets is the cause of my very noticeable oil leak.
My local mechanic and I are trying to figure out what to do as we have no access to a machine shop to mill the rocker arm pedestals as was originally supposed to be done. Rob had ground the webbing on the inner roofs of the valve covers but that is not nearly enough, we need about another 1/8" inch. We're thinking of using a hole saw to create space in the top of each valve cover above each head stud then tap those holes for threads and use hollow brass fill plugs as caps to create space. We're concerned with how little thread surface the valve covers will allow and strength. We may also try to just heat them with a torch and beat on them but we figure they are cast and will perhaps not have good results.
I'm very unhappy about having to pay someone else to fix what I just paid to have done because it wasn't done right the first time. Still haven't adjusted the governor arm and unsure about the AFC though I've adjusted the smoke screw, aneroid, and cam plate. Once the oil leaks are squared away I'll be able to readdress my extreme loss of power and drivability. I'm really hoping nothing in the porting or custom manifold is causing the grossly decreased performance.
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I am sorry to hear about the valve issue..... This is the first time I have ever heard about someone not being satisfied with his work. Have you called to talk with him about it? I assume the VC/Rocker/Stud issue was because of the timeframe you guys were under. I know some guys just grind the ribs on the VC and there are a few taller VC sets out there that you can use instead of milling the stands. I do feel bad about recomending him to you and you had a bad experience..... that is not the norm.
I have been leaving voice messages for Rob on 3 different phone lines for weeks now without a single attempt to return my calls. His workmanship is some of the worst I've ever encountered. I've never been taken for so much money so badly.
My first indication of incompetence was how horribly Rob adjusted my valves. My second problem was that he did not machine my rocker arm pedestals so my valve covers would clear the ARP head studs. Now I've had to have my local mechanic build a kit to pressure the system and roughly a dozen leaks have been found in the intake manifold Rob custom built.
This means I've had to pay someone to fix the valves, fix the massive oil leaks, and now try to repair the massive air leaks. A 150 psi shop compressor could only register 2. 7 psi boost on my gauge while air can be felt by hand on the top and bottom sides of the manifold where air is literally blowing out before getting to the engine.
This should be a warning to everyone to never take a vehicle needing repairs to Rob Watkins of Performance Car & Truck, Diesel Performance in Golden, Colorado. If after weeks of trying to reach him he had at least once attempted to return one of my phone calls I could perhaps identify some integrity and care for the quality of his own workmanship. Unfortunately, I've found no such character or sense of responsibility.
I am hoping that as my local mechanic pulls my injector pump and intake manifold that he does not find Rob's machine work impossible to repair. If he at least got a smooth surface on both his manifold and the brand new head, we can probably repair bad welds. However, at this point, the way the leaks can be felt barehanded, it is not looking good. It should also be noted that my truck was there for a week and a half even though I'd been promised it would be finished within the first week.
My first indication of incompetence was how horribly Rob adjusted my valves. My second problem was that he did not machine my rocker arm pedestals so my valve covers would clear the ARP head studs. Now I've had to have my local mechanic build a kit to pressure the system and roughly a dozen leaks have been found in the intake manifold Rob custom built.
This means I've had to pay someone to fix the valves, fix the massive oil leaks, and now try to repair the massive air leaks. A 150 psi shop compressor could only register 2. 7 psi boost on my gauge while air can be felt by hand on the top and bottom sides of the manifold where air is literally blowing out before getting to the engine.
This should be a warning to everyone to never take a vehicle needing repairs to Rob Watkins of Performance Car & Truck, Diesel Performance in Golden, Colorado. If after weeks of trying to reach him he had at least once attempted to return one of my phone calls I could perhaps identify some integrity and care for the quality of his own workmanship. Unfortunately, I've found no such character or sense of responsibility.
I am hoping that as my local mechanic pulls my injector pump and intake manifold that he does not find Rob's machine work impossible to repair. If he at least got a smooth surface on both his manifold and the brand new head, we can probably repair bad welds. However, at this point, the way the leaks can be felt barehanded, it is not looking good. It should also be noted that my truck was there for a week and a half even though I'd been promised it would be finished within the first week.
Had to completely redo everything
Had to buy another brand new head. Picked it up from Industrial Injection with all of the machine work already done by Randy's Machine. Things look totally different on this newest head where I actually got what I paid for.
Still working to get my truck back on the road another month later. I paid to have the last one from Rob ported and there was no porting done, even my heavy duty valve springs were not transfered to the head Rob put on. The sand casting on both the intake and exhaust sides of the head still has the rough grooves so obvious they can be easily seen and felt.
Rob claimed I had 140 lb racing springs but when I talked with Piers about them, they said there is no such spring, especially since I bought all of my valve springs from Piers. Rob was telling me I'd have to replace the camshaft because of the springs. Rob says he makes a great camshaft, his own unique grind. From what I've seen, that means he will charge someone for custom machine work and just put some used cam in there.
I've spent enough to have put a 1,000 hp motor in by now. After a new thermostat I should be back on the road. Running fire-rings instead of o-rings this time. I think I still need compound turbos. EGTs are sky high, not sure what Rob did to my pump, still hasn't returned any phone calls.
Now that I actually do have my exhaust ported and finally have my PDI exhaust manifold both port matched and gasket matched, both things promised and not done by Rob, I expected EGTs to be lower and boost to come on sooner. Rob had said something about swapping out my 181 delivery valves for those of 131s I think because they pool fuel better and deliver better bottom end response. Since bottom end response is still improved, I suspect that either the DVs or something else he did while in the pump is making my engine run very hot with a ton of smoke. Hope he didn't steal my injectors but it would go right along with everything else I've experienced thus far.
Rob didn't put my heat shield back in the right spot and his tuning ran so hot that my turbo, in the same place it always has been, melted my heater box. Most of the head studs he said to never touch again after his initial torquing were only finger tight, didn't even need tools to take them out and weren't bottom tapped either. That was scary!
Rob's custom intake had no chance of sealing. He relieved too much metal from the head, there are grooves where there is simply no way for the manifold to seal flat and airtight. He used a gasket that is evidently what blew during the one close to decent test drive. Not enough metal left on the head to even fix what Rob had done or I would have fixed it with a ZZ manifold for far less money. But then I wouldn't have discovered that I paid for porting that was never done. So much metal was taken from the head that the valve cover gaskets hang over the edge. Checking how flat Rob's manifold was, a straight edge rocked back and forth on it so bad that you could hear the metal clink. One of the bolts he used was too long and on the bottom side of the manifold, it was poking a hole that had not yet rubbed through.
The instructions with the ARP studs state in huge letters right at the very beginning that it is necessary to machine the rocker arm pedestals. I waited while Industrial Injection machined them for me and now there is plenty of clearance. Oh, not only did Rob not bottom tap my block, there was debris on the threads of the loose head studs. My local mechanic and I are not even sure if the head Rob used was new, looks older and used.
Another funny thing is that when Rob built the new intake elbow I asked him if he checked it with water for leaks. He responded with terrific arrogance that his welds are so perfect that he didn't have to check his work. I filled it with water under the sink. My mechanic and I had already pressurized it and knew it leaked. Without any additional pressure other than the weight of the water in the elbow it had a few dripping locations all around the center joint he welded.
Just can't find anything decent in the work I paid for. I'm hoping to be able to have Industrial Injection go over things. They at least have a reputation worth keeping.
Had to buy another brand new head. Picked it up from Industrial Injection with all of the machine work already done by Randy's Machine. Things look totally different on this newest head where I actually got what I paid for.
Still working to get my truck back on the road another month later. I paid to have the last one from Rob ported and there was no porting done, even my heavy duty valve springs were not transfered to the head Rob put on. The sand casting on both the intake and exhaust sides of the head still has the rough grooves so obvious they can be easily seen and felt.
Rob claimed I had 140 lb racing springs but when I talked with Piers about them, they said there is no such spring, especially since I bought all of my valve springs from Piers. Rob was telling me I'd have to replace the camshaft because of the springs. Rob says he makes a great camshaft, his own unique grind. From what I've seen, that means he will charge someone for custom machine work and just put some used cam in there.
I've spent enough to have put a 1,000 hp motor in by now. After a new thermostat I should be back on the road. Running fire-rings instead of o-rings this time. I think I still need compound turbos. EGTs are sky high, not sure what Rob did to my pump, still hasn't returned any phone calls.
Now that I actually do have my exhaust ported and finally have my PDI exhaust manifold both port matched and gasket matched, both things promised and not done by Rob, I expected EGTs to be lower and boost to come on sooner. Rob had said something about swapping out my 181 delivery valves for those of 131s I think because they pool fuel better and deliver better bottom end response. Since bottom end response is still improved, I suspect that either the DVs or something else he did while in the pump is making my engine run very hot with a ton of smoke. Hope he didn't steal my injectors but it would go right along with everything else I've experienced thus far.
Rob didn't put my heat shield back in the right spot and his tuning ran so hot that my turbo, in the same place it always has been, melted my heater box. Most of the head studs he said to never touch again after his initial torquing were only finger tight, didn't even need tools to take them out and weren't bottom tapped either. That was scary!
Rob's custom intake had no chance of sealing. He relieved too much metal from the head, there are grooves where there is simply no way for the manifold to seal flat and airtight. He used a gasket that is evidently what blew during the one close to decent test drive. Not enough metal left on the head to even fix what Rob had done or I would have fixed it with a ZZ manifold for far less money. But then I wouldn't have discovered that I paid for porting that was never done. So much metal was taken from the head that the valve cover gaskets hang over the edge. Checking how flat Rob's manifold was, a straight edge rocked back and forth on it so bad that you could hear the metal clink. One of the bolts he used was too long and on the bottom side of the manifold, it was poking a hole that had not yet rubbed through.
The instructions with the ARP studs state in huge letters right at the very beginning that it is necessary to machine the rocker arm pedestals. I waited while Industrial Injection machined them for me and now there is plenty of clearance. Oh, not only did Rob not bottom tap my block, there was debris on the threads of the loose head studs. My local mechanic and I are not even sure if the head Rob used was new, looks older and used.
Another funny thing is that when Rob built the new intake elbow I asked him if he checked it with water for leaks. He responded with terrific arrogance that his welds are so perfect that he didn't have to check his work. I filled it with water under the sink. My mechanic and I had already pressurized it and knew it leaked. Without any additional pressure other than the weight of the water in the elbow it had a few dripping locations all around the center joint he welded.
Just can't find anything decent in the work I paid for. I'm hoping to be able to have Industrial Injection go over things. They at least have a reputation worth keeping.
There is no way that can be true. I've left him my phone number on every voice message on all three phone numbers so he's been given the number at least a couple dozen times. He never had a problem calling me before my truck got to his shop. My phone shows no calls from him or any other numbers I don't know. There is obviously no way I'd ever let the guy work on my truck ever again, and I wouldn't trust any work he does no matter what. I'll be seeking a refund and I expect I'll have to take a legal course since he won't respond to me. I'll PM you my number but he's had a couple months to call me back.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
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