Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) head re-torque with ARP studs ?

[**ICEMAN**]

other than removing the rockers,,does any one have an idea how to re-torque the head without removing the rockers ??

 

[HOSS]

I always remove them. I have not found a way to get striaght on each nut with the rockers in place. You only have to remove one side. After a few times it goes pretty fast.

 

[TORQUE THIS]

Yup, same here, gotta remove them!

 

[Jetpilot]

Don,



You have to remove the rockers... ... Also I use the same pattern Cummins recommends for the torque sequence. Be sure and break the bolt loose and then retorque to desire spec (O-ringed head I used 120# with the ARP studs).



See ya next weekend.



Doug

 

[MCummings]

I could be wrong, but, just because you remove them, does not mean you have to reset them.



It's a workout torque'n 'em down! You could definatly break a sweat, LOL.



Merrick

 

[**ICEMAN**]

thanks,,guess i was hoping for a magic socket



doug,,i have a new head,,o-ringed,,marine gasket and piers told me 105 lbs.

i questioned him because the arp box says 77 lbs using arp moly lube.

guess you needed more ft lbs due to the nos.

 

[Snow man]

I have my ARP's at 125 ft lbs. Initially i had them at 96ft lbs,then i blew the gasket due to poor machine work by the o ring machinist. Don M told me to run them to 125 after that. Ive had zero head gasket trouble since. Doug is right,breaking them loose,you will get a little more on each studd for a given amount of torque. i marked mine,retorqued to 125ft lbs,then i broke them loose and torqued to 125, i got about 3/8 more of a turn on each studd. This is the first time ive been able to keep a head on the truck in over a yr.

 

[Huff N Puff]

It is a definite yes,on readjusting the valves,when you retorque the head because if the head settles the valve adjustment changes.

 

[MCummings]

Huff N Puff, DOH!,, Give Merrick one smack on the head for not seeing that...



I think I've got my studs torqued to 122Lbs.



However, my Haisley's 14mm studs on my 12V,, go a little tighter.



Merrick

 

[Jim Fulmer]

It is a definite yes,on readjusting the valves,when you retorque the head because if the head settles the valve adjustment changes.



Did that very thing this morning..... been needing it for a while... ... . maintenance stuff. One thing I noticed was the studs on the out side of the covers needed a re-lube of ARP as they were dry.



Jim

 

[**ICEMAN**]

ok,,maybe i'll take them to 120 on the first retorque. haven't fired it up yet do to not being able to locate a pair of snap ring pliers large enough to put the housing back on my hx40(took it off to powder coat).

piers told me to line torque on the re-torques. straight up one side,,down the middle,,then up the other. he says mark the stud/nut,,break it loose,,re-torque,, and if there is 1/8" or less of movement after tightening i am good to go. if more than 1/8" another retorque or two will be needed until there is less than 1/8 ".

 

[Jim Fulmer]

That is the way I do a re-torque also and have several times, it usually takes 2-3 times to get the O-ring to set in the head gasket's ring good. On the snap ring, I use two screw drivers, one to do the inital pry and the other to walk it on..... talkes about 10 minutes if it's in a vise.



Jim

 

[**ICEMAN**]

my ole buddy loyd (lmills) stopped by and put the snap ring on with his fingers

:--)

 

[jwilliams3]

A big set of channel locks will work on the snap ring issue.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

my ole buddy loyd (lmills) stopped by and put the snap ring on with his fingers



Put a pic of him up so we know what he looks like and not to ever irritate him.



Jim

 

[John L]

kinda off the subject but... I was wondering if I could replace my stock head bolts with studs without replacing the head gasket? I want to get the benefit of the studs but was hoping I didn't have to remove the head. Any comments would be great.



John

 

[Jetpilot]

John,



Yes you can do this..... Just remove them one at a time and in the torque sequence that Cummins uses. I would torque them to 90 lbs first, then start and warm the engine. Let the engine cool for 3 hours or so and then retorque to 115 lbs.



Doug

 

[justinp20012500]

kinda off the subject but... I was wondering if I could replace my stock head bolts with studs without replacing the head gasket? I want to get the benefit of the studs but was hoping I didn't have to remove the head. Any comments would be great.

John

Can you just drop the studs down the holes without removing the head????

Doesn't the cowl get in the way for # 5 and 6?????????????

 

[Jetpilot]

Justin,



I just replaced the OEM bolts with a set of the ARP studs on a 2002 truck and I didn't remove the head or the cowl. The studs will just drop down in the holes... ... If it is real tight you can always remove the cowl but so far on the trucks I have done I have not had to do it.



Doug

 

[Huff N Puff]

The only problem,I see with not pulling the head,to install studs is, you cannot run all the studs all the way to the bottom of the hole,because the threads don't go deep enough in some holes. You usually need to run a bottoming tap in the threads to extend the thread depth Which causes two problems,not going all the way to the bottom. One is the stud will stick out too much causing clearance problems. The other problem with that is, studs need to pull from the bottom of the bolt hole because its stronger that way. The block is stronger deep in the bolt hole,than near the surface.