Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) head re-torque with ARP studs ?

[Jetpilot]

Merv,



Not saying you are wrong, I just didn't have that problem..... I guess it helps when the truck is pretty much stock so the bolt holes are nice and true,



Doug

 

[John L]

thanks for all the great replies regarding installing studs without removing the head. .



John

 

[**ICEMAN**]

I guess it helps when the truck is pretty much stock

just curious why you put studs in a "pretty much stock" truck

i was at kauffmans the other day :-laf

 

[BPINE]

The only problem,I see with not pulling the head,to install studs is, you cannot run all the studs all the way to the bottom of the hole,because the threads don't go deep enough in some holes. You usually need to run a bottoming tap in the threads to extend the thread depth Which causes two problems,not going all the way to the bottom. One is the stud will stick out too much causing clearance problems. The other problem with that is, studs need to pull from the bottom of the bolt hole because its stronger that way. The block is stronger deep in the bolt hole,than near the surface.

I have done this several times and haven't had any trouble getting the studs in with out removing the head. I am sure some day I am going to run into a snag but it seems to be going ok so far.

 

[Jetpilot]

Don,



Who said it was that truck... ...

 

[TractorNut]

When to Retorque??

How are most of you determining when to retorque. . I know there are differences in setups. . O-rings. . no rings... and others. . but an rules of thumb???

I have been looking at these for future upgrade. . but drive 45-50K per yr. . So I'll probably stick with something I dont' have to retorque a lot. . (Ringless. )

Thanks,

Bryan

 

[tcourse]

So, is there any advantage in replacing head bolts with studs on a moderately bombed(400-450hp) truck running no more than 40lbs boost? Is there any advantage to retorquing head bolts(not studs)? At what point mileage does it become pointless?



TC

 

[MCummings]

Nope.



The Head Bolts are TOrque to Yield. I know some people have retorqued tham, but the bolts are supposed to be stretched when torqued from the factory, so re-torqueing 'em might not be a good idea.



Merrick

 

[jwilliams3]

Some people have had good luck with retorquing factory bolts.

I am one that hasn't.



Studs are the way to go!

 

[Smokin Dodge]

How much boost and timing could a guy get away with on a 12V with stock gasket and studs.

 

[Bandit1]

i got 16. 5 degrees timing, 40 lbs of boost from stock turbo on the stock gasket before it went.

 

[BPINE]

How much boost and timing could a guy get away with on a 12V with stock gasket and studs.

I am running mine at 55 to 60 lbs with a stock gasket and studs. While pulling my 5th wheel I maintain 50lbs for several miles at times. A buddy of mine is in the process of doing the same setup I have on a 24 valve we will see if that works as good.

 

[MCummings]

50PSI and 15. 5*



w/Studs and o-rings about 60-70 PSI @ 20* or so.



Merrick

 

[Snow man]

Bpine, you maintain 50PSI thats amazing. WHat kind of EGTs do you see at that boost. Do you have any blowby issues from that much boost over such a long time?I cant get my truck over 30psi with my twins without exceeding 1300 EGT. but at 30psi i can maintain 85 up the steepest hillswith my 33ft TT in tow (9000-9500)lbs.

 

[BPINE]

Bpine, you maintain 50PSI thats amazing. WHat kind of EGTs do you see at that boost. Do you have any blowby issues from that much boost over such a long time?I cant get my truck over 30psi with my twins without exceeding 1300 EGT. but at 30psi i can maintain 85 up the steepest hillswith my 33ft TT in tow (9000-9500)lbs.

I run at 1200 degrees, the thing you have to do when towing is turn off the wastegate. My trailer weighs in at about 14k and I can't do 80 that is for sure.

 

[Snow man]

No wonder you made 50psi. I have a 2 1/4" flat washers i cut a slot in ,whenever i tow i slip them in between the wastegate bracket,and canister,its the same as putting 2 turns on the wastegate,exc it takes less time. Im afraid of blocking the gate,and overboosting the total boost. You know how fragile the hx40s are,so i dont want to risk overboosting that either. I will try more experimenting with it though. I ditched the wastegate setup it came with for now,plugged the line,and made a bracket,and im using a simple spring to open the hx40 using drive pressure only,not boost pressure. it seems to work great,and spoolup from a roll is way better,but on top end the 3b is still doing 36+psi.