Head Stud Installation Instructions

[Blacksdieselhp]

Just bought a set of head studs and they didn't come with the installation instructions. Can someone tell me where I could find them on the internet, if available. Is the torque pattern the same as the 2nd gens? What torque values? Do you have to use a bottom tap on these blocks like the 3rd gens?

 

[Blacksdieselhp]

Nobody?

 

[Diesel Power]

the only problem you will have is with the exhaust rocker clearance, as you take one bolt out replace with a new one and torque to specs--no other issues Oo.

 

[lmills]

run the studs into the block. there is no need to run a bottom tap in. torque the studs in one at a time. as mentioned above, remove the exhaust rockers. and last but not least, there is one spot on the rocker box that needs to be clearanced for the nut. Install all the studs then set the rocker box on the head. You will see which one needs clearanced. as for torquing, some have said 120-122 ft lbs. Piers told us once before to go to 125, so that's what mine are at.

 

[TSterner]

run the studs into the block. there is no need to run a bottom tap in.





your right no need to tap the holes deeper, why would you want to use all of the threads that they so kindly put on the head stud. they must have just had some extra time and put those others on for fun.



ted

 

[JFaulkner]

run the studs into the block. there is no need to run a bottom tap in.





your right no need to tap the holes deeper, why would you want to use all of the threads that they so kindly put on the head stud. they must have just had some extra time and put those others on for fun.



ted

Ahhh. . come on now it's only about 1/4 inch on some of them, how much could that possibly hold.

Maybe the guy who threads the studs wasn't paying attention and went too far. :-laf

 

[lmills]

Ahhh. . come on now it's only about 1/4 inch on some of them, how much could that possibly hold.

Maybe the guy who threads the studs wasn't paying attention and went too far. :-laf

Ah, you some funny guys. I guess there are a lot of vendors out there doing it the wrong way also. I also guess cummins didn't know what they were doing when the stock head bolts only went in a 3/8". The studs go in almost 3/4". Please, there is plenty there to grab.





Maybe some of us should try to figure out how to keep our trucks together rather than run around criticizing other peoples posts.

 

[Diesel Power]

easy guys it is sunday!!! :-laf

 

[jwilliams3]

I think we all could agree that tapping the threads deeper and using all of the supplied threads on the stud is a good thing!

 

[Diesel Power]

they wont bottom out---there not long enough!!!

 

[Bandit1]

haha



tist, time for a 6 pack

 

[lmills]

I think we all could agree that tapping the threads deeper and using all of the supplied threads on the stud is a good thing!

Oh, never a doubt in my mind that the deeper you go in the less likely you are to pull the stud out of the block. However it doesn't mean that the stud is going to compress the gasket better. The better clamping load and the fact that the stud is a higher grade material is what attributes to it stretching less than the bolts.



Mine is holding just fine. My truck has 36,000 hard miles on it. Also, for what it's worth there is far less than 1/4" sticking out of mine.

 

[JFaulkner]

I guess there are a lot of vendors out there doing it the wrong way also.

If they're all doing it the easy half-a**ed way like you keep suggesting, YES!



This picture below is how they should look.

I also guess cummins didn't know what they were doing when the stock head bolts only went in a 3/8".

Using that logic then you shouldn't need the studs anyway since Cummins thought it only needed bolts. Gee maybe it has somthing to do with the increased cylinder pressures of AFTERMARKET mods that Cummins never intended.

 

[TSterner]

cummins didn't intend for us to run the cylinder pressures we are running either, we all are a far cry from 30 pounds of boost and stock fuel and timing. We all know that studs will normally fix the head gasket problem, but that creates another potential problem. The studs are made to not stretch at all, that makes the block the week point since the spongy bolts are gone. There has to be a week point in every thing, it wont be the block in my engine or any of my customers for that matter. Why do the minimum when you can do better. As for other vendors doing what they do thats their business, i just don't like seeing bad advice being slopped around. I have seen as much as . 210 inches of depth gained by bottom tapping.



AS FOR MY TRUCK:

MY ENGINE DID NOT COME APART THE TURBO WHICH I didn't BUILD DID. the part that i built that the turbo didn't get still looks good. it is going back together the right way not half *ssed as some apparently would. there is a lot more to high performance than swapping injectors and turbos try it its fun. If i wanted safe and average performance i would have stayed with the normal mods like you, but i choose to push the envelope to see how big it really is.



ted

 

[lmills]

Well like I said, as long as mine is holding up then your point is useless... . Now,If it were to come apart from the lack of running the bottom tap, I would consider going deeper. At this point in time though, as far as I am concerned it is just another opinion on the internet. Just as is mine is just an opinion. Im just didn't see the point of running a bottom tap in the block for three threads and having to worry about shavings with the engine in the truck. Now... . if I had the head off doing headgasket, then yes I would strongly consider it.



Mine runs at full boost multiple times a day as I am playing. I also tow with mine and use it in the construction trade. So yes the truck gets abused. It is holding just fine. But remember before there were studs, guys held these together all the time with the weak factory bolts.



and BTW, for what it's worth in case you didn't notice the previous post, I did acknowledge what JWilliams said and did agree that the more threads the better. I just don't feel it needed as bad as you want to think it is.

 

[JFaulkner]

Now,If it were to come apart from the lack of running the bottom tap, I would consider going deeper.

I certainly hope (for your customers sake) this "fix it after it breaks" attitude doesn't spill over to your "business". "Your truck is done sir, if you blow it up bring it back and well fix it right"!

Just as is mine is just an opinion.

This is fine if when you gave your "opinion" it was labeled as such and not to be taken as the only way to do it. Some people would like to take the time to do things the right way.

 

[Amish Elegance]

You cannot bottom tap with the head on. Correct?

 

[JFaulkner]

You cannot bottom tap with the head on. Correct?

yes you can. Just clean out the holes with a small magnet and or a blow gun with a rag to catch the chunkies.

 

[Amish Elegance]

Thanks

Where did you get the long tap? I was under the assumption you had to have the head off to tap. That aint so hard after all.

 

[Bandit1]

this is almost as bad as a auto trans thread. all i can see with all of this worthless posting is opinions from one person to all and then another person posting "his" opinion. in my mind, to each his own. one person does this one way and others do it another, no one can say this is the only way to do it. that is what makes the world go round. gtfu