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Head Stud Installation Instructions

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Bandit1 said:
this is almost as bad as a auto trans thread. all i can see with all of this worthless posting is opinions from one person to all and then another person posting "his" opinion. in my mind, to each his own. one person does this one way and others do it another, no one can say this is the only way to do it. that is what makes the world go round. gtfu

EXACTLY :{ WE JUST WANT TO KNOW WHAT WORKS BEST TO SAVE US ALL TIME AND MONEY, AND MOST OF ALL HEADACHES. IF IT WORKS, GREAT AND IF IT FAILS, TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT, AFTER ALL ISNT EVERY SINGLE MOD, TRIAL AND ERROR, I KNOW MINE ARE, AND I HAVE BROKEN PLENTY TO PROVE IT... ... ... ... . :-{}
 
how much deeper do the head stud/bolt holes need to be?? i have one pic from a cut away isb305 engine that shows there is at least 1/2" of threadded hole below where the stock head bolts reach. i also remember seeing a cut away picture of an isb325 that showed the same and more as the hole extended about 1" below the end of the stock headbolt... ???



found the picture i was looking for. .



bighammer has it on his webshots site
 
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i wasn't trying to start a ******* match here, maybe went about it the wrong way. as you said opinions are just that,but there is always two sides. i don't think that i would give an opinion as advice though. not bottom tapping has failed before and will fail again, just the way it is. as i said there will be no trucks i work on done in that way b/c with a little extra time it can be done and done right. it can be done safely with the head on so why not.



ted
 
Everyone on here can do whatever they want to THEIR OWN trucks. I don't care if you set it on fire in your garage, but not to someone elses.



Well this started out well, I thought i would pick up some good imfo. I guess i was WRONG!!!



What exactialy were you looking for on a headstud install? Bottom tap or not it's your choice. Nothing earthshattering here, sorry if you were looking for the meaning of life.



this is almost as bad as a auto trans thread. all i can see with all of this worthless posting is opinions from one person to all and then another person posting "his" opinion. in my mind, to each his own. one person does this one way and others do it another, no one can say this is the only way to do it. that is what makes the world go round. gtfu



Everything you said is true but you failed to notice that only one way was given. If it's your opinion you should give an argument for both sides. such as "I don't think doing this is necessary however some do, it's your choice. "



P. S you gtfu I have, I'm just "stirrin' the pot" because this site is boring in the off season. :-laf
 
i would like to see a 3rd gen tear the studs out of the block rrrrriiiiiiiggggggttttttt... ... ... ... ... it might be coming, but unless you are running a super shot of nos i dont think we will be tearing the head off of our 3rd gen trucks any time soon... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... :--)
 
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haha i almost didnt put the "gtfu" (can you guess what it means, pm me if you can bc it would be funny if someone actually understood it) in there but like you said just trying to stir the pot. i can see what you are saying and of course i can see what lmills is saying. you have your way, he has his. i have gone one route with my truck and had the unthinkable happen (the manufacture didnt even think it would happen) i have tried to warn other people that have gone the route that i started down but i just wasted my time typing. so i stopped giving people advice bc i obvisouly dont know what i am talking about. personally if we are giving opinions, under the circumstances i dont think you are going to lift/pull threads on the 3rd gen motors, there are guys holding 600+ hp with headbolts that are designed to stretch. now with a 2gen motor i would have bottom tapped, but with the way these new motors are designed and are performing i dont think it is necessary.
 
bandit, that is why i ussually sit back and read and dont reply to much. waisting time. the day of lifting the head off is here and real. there is more than one out there now, with the boost and timming and fuel. not to mention yhe p-pumped guys that will be out this year. this is all im going to say good luck to every one pm me if you have any questions or need a tap.



ted
 
So you CAN bottom tap the block with the head on yes?



What tap is used to achieve this, being its quite a ways down in the block it would have to be pretty long.



Also, you would just be tapping threads deeper into the block, the hole is there just no threads?
 
the hole is there, plenty of depth. yes it can be done with the head on. the tap is a good quallity m12/1. 75, no hardware specials!!!! you can get them in about any size. the ones i use are about 6. 2 inches long.



ted
 
Instead of amping about needing to bottom tap the holes how about spending a little time calculating the strengths of the fastener system. If you do you'll see that the thread length engagement between the stud and block is plenty long enough to resist anything close to internal thread stripping at the 125 lb-ft most are torquing to.
 
banshee said:
Instead of amping about needing to bottom tap the holes how about spending a little time calculating the strengths of the fastener system. If you do you'll see that the thread length engagement between the stud and block is plenty long enough to resist anything close to internal thread stripping at the 125 lb-ft most are torquing to.

I CAN ONLY READ PICTURES :cool: WHAT IS A GOOD STARTING POINT FOR THE NUT T. Q. SPEC, I WILL BE INSTALLING ARP STUDS SOON... ... :)
 
What exactialy were you looking for on a headstud install? Bottom tap or not it's your choice. Nothing earthshattering here, sorry if you were looking for the meaning of life. (QUOTE)







Read the entire original thread. Answer the questions, torque seq, tap or no tap, owner preferance, what tap to use. Just the basics of the install, nothing more nothing less!
 
To my knowledge, there has never been a stud or hole thread failure on a 3rd Gen with stock MLS head gasket due to not bottom tapping the holes. Bottom tapping would provide better grip for sure, but the stock MLS gasket will pop way before you have a stud or thread failure. We are popping MLS gaskets on studded heads every day. If I was going to fire ring or o-ring, then I might would consider bottom tapping if I had to do mine again. Just studding a stock 3rd Gen head, bottom tapped or not, the stud or hole threads are not going to be the point of failure, if failure should occur, and should probably be the least of your concerns.



If you put an allen wrench on it and run it down until it comes to a firm stop, you will have 1/8" or less of stud left on everything but the longer outside studs on the exhaust side. Those will be closer to 1/4" without tapping the hole. That will hold whatever you can throw at it. If I had a tap I would use it. If I didn’t have a tap, I wouldn’t go buy one. Unnecessary in my opinion.
 
Well, guys, I can't believe this hasn't died yet. :D I was on vacation the better part of this week and didn't have internet to access the TDR. Anyway, I never intended to start a ******* match with anyone. I get on the TDR for fun. When the mud got thrown in my direction, I should have shook it of like a big boy, instead I threw back.



Anyway, I don't want to take anything away from Ted. I think his p-pump coversion is neat, unfortunately, I don't think he gave the cp-3 market a chance to prove itself. Still, all in all he get's two thumbs up for doing something unique. However, just cause my sig is not updated... ... don't count me out. ;) I might have turned some wrenches on mine in the past couple months. :D



Peace out!
 
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