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Head studs on a 06

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do i need to lift the cab to do it and how do u like your tst cr ,jwilliams how do u think egts will be with a stock turbo with just a waste gate actuator and boost elbow from tst.
 
No you dont need to lift the cab.

But really your wasting your time installing studs if your not boostin over 60psi on a regular basis.

To add to that I would not install studs without bottom tapping the holes in the block.



How do I think EGT's will be?

Well it depends how far you turn up the box and how far you press down your foot. :-laf
 
what do u mean by bottom tapping, so u think no on studs unless i get around 60 psi and at about level 7 or so and baja style racing. yea
 
On a close to stock truck Level 7 will usually net less power than level 6x6.



Not all the block head bolt holes are threaded all the way down and bottom tapping will give you the extra threads to get the stud in all the way or the proper amount.



Here is an example of an engine that has been bottom tapped (I bottom tapped mine on the advice of Ted Sterner)

#ad
 
ill need a pusher pump to probaly to get good performance out of the tst box also and you say the gaskets and stock head bolts will be fine with 40 psi of boost cause on my powerstroke studs where a must for 40psi :-laf again thanks for all the help just tryin to get a reliable, powerful truck built for desert conditions :D new to cummins motors lots to learn
 
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Yeah 40psi is no sweat for the new gaskets just make sure you get to operating water temp before getting stupid with it.

I would advise an AFE stage 2 or stage 1 intake with the proguard 7 filter for the dusty environment you will be running your truck in. :)
 
I would look into having it modded with beefier bearings to help keep it together. High turbine speeds and drive pressures at 35-40+PSI can kill a stocker fairly easily.
 
Can you bottom tap the block with the head in place or do you need to remove it. I am about to embark on this stud adventure but you are the first to mention bottom tapping to me. It makes sense and of course i want to be proud of my job please enlighten me.
 
You can bottom tap the block with the head in place if you have the correct length tap. I do not have one in that length at the moment. So I did mine when I had my head off a couple months back.



With as much torque as the studs get I would advise it though. If you are not going to bottom tap I would just leave it alone until you are prepared to do it right.

I know bottom tapping is not the "popular" thing to do around here but I believe in it and I am glad I did.

Once you see how SOFT the threads in the block are you will be a believer too!

To tap the rest of the way down into the block it took almost no effort. It was like a hot knife through butter with the tap. It is much softer than say the forged crank that is in our truck.
 
Just run your tap down the hole gently, working it back and forth and when you are done stick one of those little extendable pen sized magnets down the hole and pull out the shavings. Good to go.

Bottom tapping just threads the hole to the bottom of the hole (hence the name). A regular starter tap is tapered so it doesent cut into the base metal all at once, kins like a sheet metal screw. Tapered to fit into the hole and then hog it out to where it needs to be. So, the bottom of the hole where the tap stopped is tapered, and a bolt will not make it passed thes threads.
 
hopefully bore the turbo out some for better air flow and put better bearings in that will last at 40 psi. Have to retain the manufactors turbo from factory! So boring the stock one out is the only option if they are capable of doing it. Which im sure they are
 
Curious question -

what is the big deal with keeping the stock turbo on the truck? Just wondering casue it looks like you are looking at spending quite a bit of money to modify the stock turbo instead of just upgrading.
 
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