Headed to Snow Country

[DLord]

Need some advice about cold weather operation of my 2500. Gonna' spend some time in snow and was wondering if there is any prep. I need to make. Temps. will be 35 to 0. Won't be doing any heavy towing. Any input would be great. Thanx...

 

[Thomas]

Be sure windshield washer solution is good to –20° F.



If there's a chance you can plug in your block heater, take an extension cord.

 

[jwdeeming]

Nothing special I can think of. Can't tell from your post where you live, but if you're not used to it, fish out that block heater cord and let it dangle out front - it's handy to have access to that without having to pop the hood.



I find my truck to be absolutely troublefree here in Colorado. You will notice that the "wait to start" light may linger an extra 20 or 30 seconds, and you will definitely notice the engine takes longer to come up to temp (so the heater doesn't do much for the first 5 miles after a cold start). My engine ALWAYS starts immediately, no cranking required (much to the chagrin of my Powerchoke buddy).



As for driving on snow, it's no different than any other pickup. You don't have (proportionally) much weight over the rear end, so it's pretty easy to break the tires loose. Personally, I slip into four wheel drive at any appearance of ice or snowpack on the road. Lots of diehard two-wheel-drivers will say that's overkill, but I prefer to keep control before I loose it, rather than try to regain it after it's too late.



You may want to lug an extra couple hundred pounds in the bed, just for traction. The other thing to pay attention to is whether you have a posi or limited slip differential. If you have that, and break the rear end loose, you're almost guarranteed to fishtail. If you just have the dumb "regular" rear end like I do, you'll spin one tire, but have to work a little harder to get sideways.



My best recommendation is to take the first opportunity to get on an empty parking lot covered in snow and ice and just find out for real what your truck is and isn't capable of. Pardon me stepping up on a soapbox here, but I think any drivers education in Colorado that doesn't include something like this is worthless.



This is probably more than you wanted to know, but frankly as someone who lives in snow country, I appreciate sharing the road with somebody who thought things like this out before they got here.



Have fun - be safe.

JimD

 

[pnwradar]

Most of my winter prep involves putting stuff in the cab, not fiddling with the truck itself. Other than having to wait for the "Wait to Start" light to go out, I haven't noticed anything different for winter operation.



Mud/snow rated tires help more than all-season, but unless you're planning to be in snow deeper than a few inches, or off-road snow, it's not that big a deal. I like to carry the same spare parts and engine tools as summertime, and I throw in a few blankets, spare socks, farm boots, spare gloves, two window scrapes, extra flares, small shovel, a few powerbars, etc. Never had to use them for myself, but it's nice to have a spare set of gloves and a shovel, if someone else is stuck without a clue or gear. Nice to have dry socks, too, after you get your feet wet playing in the snow.



Like JW said, get some snow practice in the truck, even if you've driven in snow before. Your big truck will handle differently than other vehicles do, and it's nice to learn how, before it becomes critical. If you put weight in the bed, secure it so it can't move at all. Too many winter truck accidents result in sandbags being thrown through the window into the cab.



I get lots of dirty looks and flashed lights, when I drive down slick hills slower than some flatlanders would like. Don't let anyone rush you or make you uncomfortable. If they didn't want to be late, they should've left earlier.



-jon-

 

[JWhitcomb]

What PRWRADAR said about taking it easy is good advice. Can't tell you how many flatlanders have whipped past me in real nice 4x4's only to find them in a snow bank or worse a bit later. Just for the record, this is the first 4x4 I have owned and in thirty years of mountain driving I have only landed in a ditch once and that was on black ice. Not too much anyone can do with black ice. And by the way, I love my 4x4.

 

[Steve Campbell]

Lots of good advise above. My . 15 cents. If you have a fairly low fuel load and fill up where the temperature is lowest, the fuel you put in your tank will be blended for that temp and you should have no problems. I would add some "fuel contioner" anyway. If you are driving on "white" (snow covered) roads and the vehicles you meet have black treads---IT IS SLICK---. If you are traveling on "white" roads and the vehicles you meet have "white" treads the traction is pretty good (However, less than dry pavement). If you get a piece of cardboard and cut a 9-10" hole centerd on the fan to place in front of the radiator (not in front of the charge-air-cooler), your warm-up times will shorten, your cab comfort will increase and the likelyhood of fuel gelling will diminish. Have fun!!!

 

[Midnite]

It surprises me that Steve's is the only post recommending some kind of winter front. Having lived and driven many different vehicles in Alaska for all my life, a winter front is very helpful, and as Steve mentions can be as simple as a piece of cardboard. This is something I do for ALL my vehicles, not just my diesel truck.



Mike

 

[RonaldLarson]

For sure

Add some fuel conditioner at each fill, according to the directions on the container. This will allow you to stick with #2 fuel to below zero, and lubes the pump as well. I use #2 and Power Service conditioner all year, no start or fuel gel problems at all, and better mileage with #2.

Ron

 

[DavidTD]

Good Post Dlord

I too will be leaving the warm south in February for the frigid north. I will be headed to Minnesota (north of the twin cities by a few hours) and have the same questions.



Aside from the fuel conditioner and front end treatment, what about oil and other fluids. I run 15w40 all year here, should I change to a different oil before I leave? What about gear boxes and diffs? My truck could see as low as -20 during this trip and I want it ready!!



Thanks guys,



I'm looking forward to the snow and the snowmobile trails.

 

[ftb87]

All of the above is great advice. I always carry a care package (several power bars, blankets and water).



You never know in Colorado what the weather is like.





Frank

 

[Alaskaskiff]

If you are going on I-80 in the vicinity of Tahoe think of chains as well. That idiot state (too aggravating to even mention by name)requires them at inconvenient times on the big hills there. I have also seen chains required after an icestorm on I-84 through the Columbia Gorge. These trucks get a little skittish with a good layer of ice on the road with freezing rain on top. You can get local road conditions from the state police of most states via an 800 number. Have fun!!!

 

[Happy Camper]

Get a good feel for the road you are driving on. Usually the fatal slip is not the first one but was not recognized. I went to town (13 miles) and felt the tires slip a number of times and drove accordingly. A van did not as on the way back a wrecker was pulling it out of an pile of brush and the pass side was crumpled from the top down. Watch the shady areas.

 

[work2muchplay2little]

I live in Texas now, but grew up in Colorado. A couple more ideas are to make sure your batteries are up to snuff, cold will reveal a marginal battery darn quick, have a CB or cell phone with you, carry good jumper cables and tow rope (never know when you'll need them for yourself ), a good flashlight, snow blades for your windshield wipers, and double check your antifreeze for at least -30F. Have fun!! Can't say I miss that cold stuff too much, much more fun to visit.

 

[RonaldLarson]

David...

Cummins recomends sticking with 15/40 during winter use, even here in Montana. I have had several "no plug in" starts at minus twenty degrees without any problems except some smoke for a short time. Let it warm a bit before moving. Suggest having the cold weather warm-up high idle flash done before your trip. It does work well, after initial startup. At initial startup, the intake air heater grid warms the intake manifold air temperature so high, that the fast idle does not function. When the heater stops operating, the fast idle operates well.

Ron