Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Headgasket leaking coolant

[59Turbo]

Hey guys, I took my truck to the track today and after the second run I noticed coolant that was leaking from the passenger side front corner of the headgasket. It seems to only leak when under a heavy load (going down the track with the comp on 5x5) and it stays dry under normal driving. I'm assuming the headbolts were stretching allowing the coolant to seep out. I want to install studs and I just read the ARP installation thread so I think I'm going to do it that way (install one stud at a time without removing the head). Here's my question should I get rid of the Comp drag due to the advanced timing and just run a big injector like a mach 4 or 5 or what? Is it the advanced timing that caused this or the 35 to 40 lbs of boost? The current configuratoin of my truck is the aforementioned Comp drag and 275 rv injectors and a stock hx 35 from a manual trans truck, my truck is a 2001 4x4 auto. I need help... . BTW the truck doesn't overheat and the oil is not contaminated with coolant. Also where can I get some high flow banjo fittings? Thanks Dan

 

[59Turbo]

anyone?????

 

[jwilliams3]

Dont get rid of anything.

I would install the studs, see if the gaskets stops leaking.

If not replace the gasket and install the studs, you should be ok up to the 50psi area with a "larger" turbo. Dont go running your hx35 to 50lbs or you'll be buying another gasket.

Make sure to run them up to the 110ft lbs or 120 fl lb area (w/arp lube only) and re-torque.

There are several threads on proper stud installation.



Your Drag Comp is not hurting anything. Big injectors will also take a toll on a headgasket as well as the drag comp would (no matter what some say here).



www.genosgarage.com has high flow banjo's.

With a Drag Comp and injectors I would look into getting a FASS or like fuel system that will push fuel up to your VP44.



Here are some sights to check into:

www.haisleymachine.com

www.scheiddiesel.com

www.enterpriseengine.com

www.piersdiesel.com

www.smokindiesel.com

www.dieselpp.com

 

[59Turbo]

Thanks for the info jwilliams. I would definately like to keep the comp for the adjustability and boost fooling. I bit the bullet and ordered a headgasket today to replace along with the studs due to the fact that I don't want any issues towing sleds north this winter. Again thanks for your help and the links.

 

[59Turbo]

Another quick question for you guys. What's a good headgasket to use on a daily driver? Is the OEM style from Cummins good enough or is there some more durable aftermarket ones available?

 

[KBaucom]

You need to do like I told the other guy and have it o-ringed while you have it off it will be worth it. you will end up blowing the head gasket just like you did the last one. Call up Olee his website is on my signature he will hook you up with everything that you need to do it the right way so it won't happen agin. He did mine, you WILL end up pulling the head right back off in about a year or mabye less depending on how you drive.

 

[59Turbo]

Thanks KBaucom, I'll definately look into it.

 

[JPoindexter]

59Turbo. i have the exact same problem with my engine. mine has done this for many miles. DAIMLER CHRYSLER TRIED TO FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY AND DID NOT at approx 82k daimler chrysler did the headgasket only and no checks or inspections. now that i am out of warranty and have the exact same problem they have lived up the their name and dodged all responsibility. my second headgasket lasted approx 25k before it started to leak in the exact same place. i fully expect to find a problem with the head or block that daimler chrysler tried to hide the first time. daimler chrysler has lost a repeat customer for life with me. when i get around to fixing it i will make sure things are right before doing the headgasket. i hope this info helps you and prevents you from doing two headgaskets in 25k or less. by the way my problem started on a stock engine at around 15k.

 

[Graphic man]

i agree,..... pull the head, tap the threads and o-ring the head, run APR bolts and tq. to 120ft. lb make sure you do the tq. in the right order, and tq to 75-then 90 then 110 then 120ft. lb, use the lube and you will be good to for 75-80 lb of boost.

stock tq. is 90 ft. lb.

ARP is 120-125ft. lb so you will have tons more holding power.



Scott

 

[Fishin Guide]

I just got done installing my ARP studs today.



I would also put the studs in, torque them properly and see if that seals it up. If it does not, you'll need the head gasket.



One note here that I did not see mentioned. Unless you plan on a bigger charger and pressures over 50 psi, I would not waste my money on O-ringing. Just my personal opinion, but there just aren't many if any failures at those pressures with the stock gasket and studs.



If you do decide to pull the head and replace the gasket, you better plan on doing a head resurfacing at the same time. I see this all the time when guys R&R the head. It there is any warpage there, it will not properly seal!!! It may hold oil and water for a while, but it will fail again no matter what you do. You can use bolts, studs or weld the head to the block, it's gonna leak! BTW, I have never seen a head come off and NOT need to be resurfaced!



So, if you are going to go through all that work, O-ringing makes more sense since you have it all apart. But, if those presssures are gonna remian sub 50psi, I would take my chances. JMO.



Dave

 

[KBaucom]

If it is leaking coolant you head gasket is already blown and it is no good the head has to come off

 

[59Turbo]

Jpoindexter, how many miles does your truck have now? Did the dealer ever resurface the head? What mods do you have? Where does it leak from? Mine leaks from the passenger front corner of the gasket and it doesn't leak unless I pound it with the comp box on the higher settings. I ordered a headgasket from Chrysler and it superceded to a new number and I'm pulling the head and I'm going to check it with a straightedge before putting it back on. If I need to resurface it I will. I just don't have the time or money right now to have it o-ringed.

 

[JPoindexter]

59Turbo, right now my truck has 121k. the dealer (northern chrysler in cutbank montana) never even checked the head or the block they said we just do the headgasket and that is it. when the problem started at 15k the truck was stock and remained stock until well after 100k. i did put on a 4 inch exhaust and exhaust brake around 35k and gauges at the same time. needless to say the local dealer was sure i was doing something to the engine because of the gauges. every time all i got was if you modify anything on the truck you have no warranty. one dealer even wrote on a service order that this truck does not have any warranty due to engine mods, (exhaust brake) and told me absolutely not to tell daimler chrysler i have an exhaust brake on the truck. the leak is in the exact same area as you describe. and it only leaks when i pull hard with it. as far as the superceded headgasket,that is what northern chrysler said they used when they did just the headgasket. when i do mine i will be using a modified marine headgasket and studs. the leak on my truck is external as far as i can tell, no indications in oil sample ect. i have been told some isb engines leak in this area and some go forever like this and some do not. in short i think there is a problem with the engine, not just a bad headgasket. if i remember correctly on our engines the number one cylinder runs the hottest due to a boss on the intake side of the head reducing air flow, however number 5 or 6 cylinder will go first from heat due to the way the water is routed through the cylinderhead. when i tow heavy the egt's will stay well over (1000 deg f pre turbo) for long periods of time in the mountains. it looks like just about every other cummins can take this, but not mine. or northern chrysler tried to hide a problem when they did the headgasket under warranty. as far as the o-rings, i would think if you have good machine work you will be fine with straight surfaces and a new headgasket. i would keep a close eye on the material removed during machine work, as i am sure the tolerances between the valves and pistons are close to start with. hope this helps you out. just make sure it is done right. jmho.

 

[JPoindexter]

59Turbo, if you are looking for special parts i. e. 12 valve modified marine headgasket or studs ect. if you use the search here or go to the vendor list there are many sources for parts. hope it goes well.

 

[Jetpilot]

59Turbo,



I would go with a 12v marine gasket modified for the 24v valve. these come in stock, . 010, and . 020 thickness. zIf you have any questions please feel free to give me a call. .



Doug

717-557-7060

 

[gatkins1]

Mine had leaked for 170,000 km. I believe the leak originates at the out side edge of the thermostat passage. The seepage was only visible when engine was cold,when warm no coolant. I gave the head bolts a 1/8 turn to tighten. The problem has not come back for 15,000km. The max. boost I see is 29 lb's. I've got 408,000km. on the truck now.

 

[59Turbo]

Jetpilot, I'll give you a call tomorrow during the day. Also I want to mount the thermocouple in the manifold so it's more accurate. Where can I get the fittings for that? Also want to ask you about turbos and such, you seem knowlegable. Thanks for your advice. thanks to everyone else for their advice too.