Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) headgasket problems

[MDurr]

ok guys. i noticed my overflow bottle had some oil in it a while back, so i cleaned it out... no problems for 1 month. ended up towing a trailer 200 miles (enclosed 3000 lbs load)and sure enough more oil in the overflow bottle. the truck has arp studs,oringed head. currently tourqed down @116 ft/lbs. I think this was something that happened in the past and just shows its face when the motor gets warm. the only thing we can think of is a bad install of the last headgasket or just way overfueled. stg5 injectors,drag comp,smarty stack could be the issue aswell. lol. but this time around 12v marine gasket modified for the 24v is going in. my question is can i put in stainless orings?if so does anyone know where i can get some?also any secrets or tips you would like to share would be great. matt

 

[JFaughn]

Some body els posted that there injectors had a large variation in popit pressures , they had Orings , studds , he came to the conclusion that the uneven pressures caused the new HG to blow , so check your injectors , have a shop pop test them .

 

[MDurr]

i will have them pop tested since iam doing new tips anyways. i am also thinking that all the fuel might not have burned or turned to smoke and had to go somewhere. just a little too much fun with the drag comp. hopefully the tear down will show what exactly happened. matt

 

[boydo]

Why don't you torque the head to 125 ft/lbs, may help. Also if you see lots of heat > 1400 you could have cracked you head. When you had the head put back on did you retorque it a few times before you put your foot into it. When you take the head off again be sure its straight it may need to be decked, and magna flux it for cracks. Depending on where you got the o-ring from they should be SS already. After installing the head torque it down at 59, 77, 100, and 125. warm the truck up to operating, then cool it down to 70C and retorque 125 (back nuts off 1/4 trun first one at a time) in line start at drivers front go to back of engine move over and torque that line to the front, etc... dive truck lightly for 3-5 heat cycles and re-torque use the line torque technique again. Using a paint marker mark you studs and keep retorqueing every 3-4 heat cycles until nuts don't advance anymore. Then it's play time:-laf. I hope that makes sense, good luck.

 

[MDurr]

i suppose i could take them a little further, although i would really like a better quality gasket then the stock 24v. ive seen 1500 for a few seconds maybe . probably not enough time for it to soak into a cast iron head. i also did not do this originally so i have no idea of the specifics on the oring job . planned on having the head decked. also what is the best method to remove the arp studs. i cant imagine there being enough room with them in to pull the head off. thanks for your time. matt

 

[boydo]

The studs will come out the top their are a few in the passengers back side that are a little tricky but they come out. Last time I did my HG, once I got the head off I found the gasket was in reasonable condidtion and the head had a visible crack from front to back, these 24 v head are known for cracking maybe do to less cooling jackets in the head from the extra 2 valves is the reason. With o-ringed head its important time is taken to insure the o-rings have fully set into the fire-rings in the head gasket, that why it critical to do all the retorques on it before you put you foot into it. Also have the your head magna fluxed at the machine shop before you deck it, be sure it still good before you throw money at it. Good Luck.

 

[CSnyder]

You need to clip your water pump if you havent done so! Our water pumps max out around 1900 RPM and when you push the pedal up to near 3000 or 4000 you are causing excessive pressure and pushing the limits of your head gasket which in turn will leak out some oil or coolant to places it shouldnt be. If you need advice for clipping your water pump send me a PM. Chris