Heading off rust along door and body seams...

[Gary - K7GLD]

WELL, another year past - and just did another application and careful check - absolutely NO rust to be seen anywhere - something must be working... :-laf:-laf

 

[rbattelle]

WELL, another year past - and just did another application and careful check - absolutely NO rust to be seen anywhere - something must be working... :-laf:-laf

How'd you check inside the door seam?



Ryan

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

How'd you check inside the door seam?



Ryan

AH, another wiseguy! :-laf



It's been my experience that rust INSIDE door and other seams, rather quickly makes it's presence known by rusty stains on the OUTSIDE of those seams...



And for the universtity grads who haven't yet figured it out, the method I use is specifically to AVOID having to dig into the inner recesses of doors and such - it worked for 11 years and 120,000 miles all across the United States in my '91 truck - and so far is doing as well in the '02...



Guys who have figured that how, and what I use to treat mine is a waste of time can simply wander off to other more interesting threads... :-laf:-laf

 

[rbattelle]

I know how you've done it, Gary, and I think it's a fine method.

I did the same thing, but I used LPS No. 3 and I removed the inner door panels to spray it in there. I stuck my head in before doing so to verify that there's no surface rust in there (yet).

I was just wondering how you knew for certain that there's no trace of rust. I thought maybe you had a borescope, or you removed the door panels.

Ryan

 

[Diesel Dually]

The method I have used for years on my vehicles (and now a few others every year) is similar but a bit more involved since I do the whole vehicle. I use bar and chain oil. I heat it up on a coleman stove, put it in a spray gun designed for undercoating and go to town... For inside door panels I mix a little kero with it to thin it a bit more so it will flow through the hose and spray tip. It flows into everything very well and as it cools it gets sticky and clings to the metal parts. It holds up better under the vehicle if there is a little dirt there. If you do this a couple of years in a row it will build up and protect everything even better. It can make it a little messy to work on but I don't have the problem of the bolts breaking from being rusted, so I don't really mind and it isn't all that messy. . If there is rust there already it will stop it completely. And I do live where there is a lot of salt used, and my '96 is out every snow storm plowing. Been real busy so far this year!!

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I know how you've done it, Gary, and I think it's a fine method.



I did the same thing, but I used LPS No. 3 and I removed the inner door panels to spray it in there. I stuck my head in before doing so to verify that there's no surface rust in there (yet).



I was just wondering how you knew for certain that there's no trace of rust. I thought maybe you had a borescope, or you removed the door panels.



Ryan

I figured you were just pulling my leg a bit...



I apply a very liberal amount of the chain lube - enough that it runs and drips out of any available openings - the lube is cheap - body work and sheet metal are not!



The best time to do this, is during warmer weather, so the lube will better seep into body seams - but time got away from me this year, and I had to settle for whatever I got as far as spread and seepage is concerned - but this is the 3rd application, so already pretty well coated from past efforts.



With the track record newer vehicles have for rusting, and the time and effort needed to actually remove body panels for a wider area application job, this method sure makes a quick and easy alternative - and at least in my case, seems to be quite effective.

 

[steved]

For an outside protectant (such as under the bed, fenderwells, etc), I found that Napa sells a "Open Gear Lube" in an aerosol. I don't know what it actually is other than a high paraffin lubricant, but it seems to stick quite well. It took about 8 cans to do it well, and it is kinda messy (do it on a calm day!), but it dries to almost a grease-like film.

I coated the underside of my truck in November (while I was in New Mexico, took advantage of the dry climate) and it has yet to wash off... it has been exposed to rain, snow, and the worst thing of all... salt. Whatever they (PA) is using for salt will rust a vehicle in no time flat...

Don't get me wrong, I have used a mixture of gear oil, hydraulic fluid, and new motor oil in the past with excellent results, but it didn't "stick" like this stuff! I will probably continue to use this oil mixture for rustproofing interior places since it will flow/creep (unlike the open gear lube).

Another product sold by Gempler's is called Fluid Film... it works very well inside panels that are protected from "washing". However, it will wash off exterior places in a matter of a few rainstorms.

steved

 

[amsoilman]

I like the way you come up with little idea's, Gary.

I have done the same basic thing as you over the past several years, but because I am involved with Amsoil, I use this product.

AMSOIL - MP Heavy Duty Metal Protector



Wayne

 

[05mxdiesel]

I am with wayne on the Amsoil MP. Great stuff except it won't come off the garage floor. I use it for everything.

 

[diesel DOG]

3M makes a inner panel protection in a spray can. You spray it in and it stays flexible and will reseal if scratched