2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission headlamps nonfunctional

[swhalen]

as the title says, fired up my truck (94) this a. m. and neither headlamp works on high or low beam. all other lights and directionals are functional. this has to be simple, but i am an electrical idiot. what should i look at? thanks steve whalen

 

[Jong]

Do you now or did the truck ever have a plow on it? Try your high-low beam switch a few times to see if they come on. If that is the case, it is your multifunction switch. Otherwise, probably your headlight switch. Good luck!

 

[swhalen]

Hi Jong:

thanks for the reply. never had a plow. interestingly, the problem arose several years ago and rapidly switching from high to low fixed it at that time. not this time, however. steve whalen

 

[DJAustin]

Check Multifunction switch

On my 95 it was a faulty multifunction switch... wasn't a complicated job to replace myself.

 

[BRadtke]

I am have the same problem on my 94 3500. The bright/dimmer switch seems to fix the problem, but I will end up replaceing it soon. Does someone out there have an instruction sheet for doing this?

 

[Royk]

I think I'd be looking at fuses first. I don't know about the '94, but my '02 has a seperate fuse for each headlight. Unlikely both would blow simultaneously, but a short in the right place would do it. If the '94 has a single headlight fuse, I'd check that before plopping down $70 for a new switch. I haven't heard of a total failure of both high and low beams (including my own a few months ago), with a bad multi-switch.



Roy

 

[swhalen]

here is an update to my situation that sheds no light on the situation (no pun intended). headlamps continued to be nonfunctional and i ponied up $102 including tax (where do you guys shop... my dealer always charges more than the prices i see quoted here) for a new multifunction switch. drove home and thought i would try the lights one more time before swapping switches and you guessed it, the lights mysteriously worked and have functioned perfectly ever since. guess i scared the old switch into working. i am not a believer yet, so the new switch will sit on the seat for a few days before i return it to the dealer. steve whalen

 

[Royk]

You went to the dealer?!?!? That's crazy, they'll rape you for everything! Exact same switch at Advance Auto is $65. I got mine at NAPA for less, but I buy on a friend's garage account and get it at cost. As I recall, it was also in the $65 range retail. Most places won't take back electrical parts, but if it's unopenned, you shouldn't have a problem unless they are real you-know-whats.



Roy

 

[swhalen]

shoulda probably checked napa first. i (wrongly) assumed it was such a specialized item that the only recourse was the dealer. it is clear that i did not use the switch bcz it is wrapped in plastic (which i didn't open) inside the box (which the dealer opened). so i should be ok with the return if it comes to that. steve whalen

 

[Jong]

I work at dealership (not all of them are a bunch of rapists guys), check online prices to make sure you're getting a good price. A lot of the problems with the multifunction switch comes from having a tilt column. When you get the column apart to get to the switch, you'll see the wiring harness that goes into the switch is held in by a small bolt, not the typical plastic clips. A lot of the time the bolt loosens over the years giving a poor contact. Check to see how tight the bolt is on yours and see if this helps. If not, replace the switch. I put a dab of Loctite on mine so it would stay tight.

 

[swhalen]

Jong:

i am not displeased with my dealership all in all. they only see my truck if i don't feel comfortable fixing whatever is wrong. service seems to be excellent. i have just noticed over the years that any parts i have purchased there invariably seem to be more expensive than prices i see folks quote on this forum for other dealerships. can't figure that out. however, knowing that, i shop at napa or rock auto if i don't need the part yesterday or if i feel that the part is generic enough that it is not a "dealership only" item. regards, steve whalen

 

[Jong]

No problem, Steve! I was just replying to some of the comments above yours. I know that with my parts manager, it's just like everything else out front in the dealership... there is a cost associated with everything and he is trying to make a profit. Most decent parts guys know this and will negotiate their prices if you tell them you can get the same or similar parts elsewhere for less. I personally like having real Mopar parts on some items, especially electrical stuff.

 

[Royk]

No problem, Steve! I was just replying to some of the comments above yours. I know that with my parts manager, it's just like everything else out front in the dealership... there is a cost associated with everything and he is trying to make a profit. Most decent parts guys know this and will negotiate their prices if you tell them you can get the same or similar parts elsewhere for less. I personally like having real Mopar parts on some items, especially electrical stuff.

The one from NAPA is OEM. As is the one from Advance Auto, so I am told.



I made the rape comment and stand by it (I'm not talking about the workers, I'm talking management and DM corporate policy. Didn't mean to offend). $40 over what the exact same switch can be bought for elsewhere? That's a one heck of a profit, especially considering that the guys selling it at $65 are also making a profit. (Pause while I run outside) I just went out to the garage and found my NAPA receipt. $53. 94 for the multi switch and they are still making a profit too. That means the dealer is making well over 100% profit on that part. If that isn't raping the customer, I don’t know what is. What does the dealer charge for the repainted WIX/NAPA oil filter? Not the negotiated price, the price they charge the wealthy average Joe who walks in. I get the get the true Fleetguard FL3894 for $7. 95 at the Cummins shop. I’ve seen others getting it in the $6 range.



I understand the need to make a profit, but let's get real. I'm sure you are an excellent and conscientious mechanic (I assume that you are a mechanic, since you didn't actually state you were one) and wish you worked at my dealership. I would love to have a dealership mechanic who didn't boast to me, and try to belittle my knowledge, when he tells me about all the training he’s had on the "Cummings" engines.





Roy





P. S. Since you work for a dealership, could you please find out the E-? number of the reverse TORX socket needed to remove the calipers from an ’02?







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