2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Headlight relays

[Silver_Ram]

This for anyone that had added relays to the stock head light wiring.



I am wondering if I can clip the wire, add connectors to stock wire, add power & ground to a relay? or



Do I have to lengthen the stock wire to make it work?



Adding 2 relays to the stock wiring is cheaper than buying 2 harnesses, due to the SPORT option.



Will this make my foglights come on? I read about some goofy thing that made the foglights stay on & the switch had to be cycled.



Thanks,



Troy

 

[y-knot]

Look, you and all other 2nd gen truck owners out there, Ok some 3rd Gen's as well. This does not have to be difficult nor do you have to reinvent the wheel to do it, The Guy's (and gals I suppose) at Summit Racing have come up with a intelligent kit to solve this problem, and do it in a very professional way. No kidding, even a Ford guy could do this job??

The kit is Summit part number SUM-890030, it cost 39. 95 and is the answer to the headlight problems. Weather you want to take load off the switch, increase the headlights brightness, or both this kit works. I was a bit skeptical myself, until I tried it. The headlights really do work better, seems the factory used way to small of a gage wire to run them, plus the route to the switch and back makes the problem even worse. The problem, know as voltage drop, is completely fixed by the kit. It contains two 30A relays that draw there power straight from the battery to feed the headlights. The kit uses heavy automotive wire, complete fuse protection and the whole system plugs into the existing wiring harness. It is this easy, 1. Un-pack harness and lay out over front of truck, decide which battery you wont to use, and attach the two power leads to the battery. 2. Work harness around to where they go,each end goes to one of the headlights. Un-plug the factory end and plug it into the harness, now plug the new harness end into the light. 3. Mount the two relays, secure and install the fuse. It is completely plug and play, and anyone can do it.

The harness is very HD and comes completely assembled . I know many can build a system that will work, but known can build one that is this well built for this much money, try it.



Summit Racing

www.summitracing.com

1-800-230-3030

 

[jkalchik]

Uh, hang on a second there, y-knot..... He said SPORT, he's got both 9004 and 9007 lamps on each side. Unless I miss my guess, the harness you're referring to is a 9004 only. This would work, but only on the outer lamp, as the pinouts for the 9007 are different than the 9004. Does anybody make a basic voltage stiffener harness specifically for the Sport model?



Troy, rather than cutting into your existing wiring, get the plugs from http://www.suvlights.com that will plug into your existing 9004 sockets. You can build a harness from them that will be relayed for both low and high beams directly from the battery. BTW, you won't need to tap into the inner socket, you can trigger both high and low beams off the 9004 outer socket.



I went that route a month ago when I did the Sport headlight conversion on my 99 2500. No breaks in the original wiring, and I can plug the original back in for whatever reason.

 

[shawn huizenga]

I've got the same situation you guys are talking about. I ordered two 9004 to 9004/9007 wiring harness kits with relays from suvlights and installed them. The problem I am having is the harness gets its triggering signal from the 9004 factory plug alone and the factory 9007 plug remains unplugged when the new harness is used. The harness also converts the headlight wiring from negative switched to positive switched. I have found a problem when using these new harnesses. I get a dimly lit high beam indication which is trying to tell me about the burned out headlights I have(the 9007 plugs that are not plugged in). I talked to them about this problem and they are sending me a resistor diode module of some sort that is supposed to work as a dummy headlamp but they pretty much said I'll have to figure out the wiring for myself as its not a plug and play module. I'll report back when I get that installed. Just another thing I noticed was the inboard lamps were 9004 and the outboards were 9007 from the factory. Anyway, hopefully someone has a little insight on this and can lead me in the right direction.



Shawn

 

[Silver_Ram]

Does anyone have the factory wiring diagram? Are the high & low beams on the circuit or is there a separate circuit for low & a circuit for high. Where can I find one? Where is the fog light attachment to the low beam wiring (by the headlight switch or the head lights)? Are the driver side & passenger side 9004 bulbs run in-line, as well as both 9007 bulbs?



I am working around 80 hours a week right now, so spare time is almost non-existant. That's why so many questions.



I'm not a wizard, but I am also not an idiot. I would think a 4 pin relay spliced into each circuit (1 high & 1 low) would work, if the high & low beams are run in-line.



I have read plenty of posts concerning this topic, but they usually deal with NON-SPORT head lights or SPORT conversions.



I DON'T want another 400 feet of wiring under the hood, nor do I want unused connections hanging around. I like a clean, simple look & have spent excessive amounts of time to hide wires where I can.



I dont doubt the quality of the wiring harnesses from Suvlights.com, but I don't want to spend $200. 00 to install relays. I also am very aware of Summit Racing, they are one the best companies to deal with and always offer quality products at great prices.