2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Headlight switch got hot?

[DDunse]

We drove the truck up north 2 hrs this weekend and before we reached our destination I started smelling something was getting hot. I felt the dash above the headlight switch and it was hot, I had this problem a couple years ago and had the dealer fix it on the recall. I thought the recall was a harness fix and not just a switch r&r if so is it common to have to put a new switch in every couple years? also I got in the truck 2 days later and turned on the headlights and had no dash lights or running lights JUST the headlights came on. Now last night we drive it to church and NO problem at all, everything( all lights ) worked. What the heck is going on? Does the head light switch need replaced again?

 

[Bart]

I went though the same problem with my '98. After the lights went out I went to my local dealer and was quoted $100 for a kit to correct it. The kit was a new plastic block to hold the new wire terminations and stub wires that you spliced into the oem harness. This wires were about 6" long. I said "Thanks" and went home, took the connector off, made a diagram of the places where the wires terminated. From there I cut the bad wire ends off, installed new connectors (available at any parts house, electronic store or electric supply house). I then plugged each wire back on to a new headlight switch (from local parts house )(much cheaper) and threw away the plastic block. To this day the area around the switch is much cooler and now more light problems. Those plastic blocks are for quickly plugging in the harness at the factory and they retain heat. Without that block everything stays coolers. Just make that diagram first.

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Got the kit from my dealer for 34. 00. New black plug, wire ends to replace whats burnt, shrink tubing, new headlight switch, and a relay. Simple fix. I was gonna rewire with toggles and relays, but couldn't justify the hassle for 34. 00



Chris

 

[DDunse]

Should'nt that have already been done when I took it in to the dealer for the recall? I think I will pull it apart and have a look. You know what they say if you want it done right..... you have to do it your self.

 

[Bart]

Good Name "Hummin Cummins" In using that plastic connector block you get to look forward to having it happen again. There wasn't any mod to correct the problem. If you already bought the kit just leave the plastic block out. IMHO

Just like the orginator of this post had it done at the dealer and it's happening again.

Good Luck

 

[illflem]

It's the rheostat that controls the dash light brightness that gets hot. Running the lights full bright will prevent it.

Something others have done that works is to drill a 1/4'' hole into the vent ducting so it aims at the switch thus cooling it.

 

[Extreme1]

There were actually 2 updates on the early trucks. The first update was the new plug and short harness which I did after the harness melted while driving at night. The second update was a recall that is a whole new switch assembly.



The improved switch has a relay to take the running light current draw out of the switch and put it in the relay. I don't recall if this would apply to the 2500's. This recall came out in 2000. The switch is much cooler now.

 

[Bart]

Got any more information on this second recall??

 

[Hummin Cummins]

I had the exact same symptoms of the recall that was for 3500's. Same wires burned and everything. The kit I bought was for the 3500 recall. The extra marker lights on the roof, tailgate, fenders, etc. are too much for the small wiring. The relay they give in the kit is to take the pressure off the switch for this circut. My 2500 has the roof lights. Obviously they are enough to overload it.



I always run my dash lights full bright. The heat was in the wiring, not the rheostat. The pic in the recall explains exactly what I had. Headlights work fine, but no markers and no blown fuses. They wont cover my truck under the recall. I dont beleive the black piece is causing the problem. Its a definate overload problem on too small gauge wire.



Recall link

 

[C. Harlan]

mine only cooks when I pull a trailer... I have gauge lights and cab lights wired in to the dimmer... that way, I can dim the roof lights in a hurry to be incognito, should mr police officer turn around or something... haha, just kidding. . For real though, the switch only cooks when I have a trailer hooked up... what gives? I know we have a trailer relay. shouldnt this cure the problem?



-Chris-