2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Headlight Switch Meltdown!!

[gerry]

My 97 3500 started to show on-off light problems so I pulled the switch. The plastic base of the switch was partially melted in some pin areas along with the 9 way connecter in joining areas. The production date for this vehicle was 7-97 and as such is well past the Oct. 96 recall cutoff date for #819 Dodge recall! Dodge will not warranty this situation and even will not say one way or another if the CAJM8190 kit used for the recall will fit this 7-97 model! At this point I`m simply thinking of getting the kit and doing a install myself. Question is, will this kit fix the situation on this later vehicle? It all appears dead stock and has never had anything new replaced.

Your comments would be appreciated.

 

[Joe G.]

I would think that it would. However, putting the head lights on a relay will take the load off the switch if you only get a replacement switch. My head lights are on a relay. They are a little bit brighter that way. My stock switch is still working fine.

 

[bmoeller]

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/819.htm

 

[ttbird]

Summit made a harness with relays. Not sure if this still available but search the forums cause I've seen a location where you can still get it. If you replace the switch and don't do the relays it will melt down again.

 

[gerry]

I went to Dodge and purchased a switch-connector kit. Just finished installing all and it went smoothly and everything works as new now. I`m with you in thinking that this situation will occur again without the Summit kit. The kit is available from them for about 49. 00. It would seem to be a long range cost effective move nand I`m going to order it now. Thanks for the advice,

Richard

 

[Extreme1]

I made my own set up when I added sport headlights. I wired the headlights with a bigger wire and set up both high beam elements and the low beam elements to come on when the high beams are on. It's alnost like daylight.

 

[Bart]

I replaced the headlight switch and abandoned the plastic connector. After making a diagram of where the wires connected I cut the plastic connector and all the crimp ends off. I crimped on new connectors and reinstalled. That worked great for a number of years. While working on the dash not too long ago I checked the switch and found the main feed wire connector had been hot enough to discolor the yellow plastic connector. I cut it off and soldiered on a replacement connector on instead of crimping. So far the switch has stayed cool to the touch.

 

[Matt42]

Summit made a harness with relays. Not sure if this still available but search the forums cause I've seen a location where you can still get it. If you replace the switch and don't do the relays it will melt down again.

I installed one of these. It works great. It's generic for the model of headlight bulbs the truck uses. (I can't recall the number designation, though :-laf ) The kit is a little narrow for the width of the truck. It will fit, but the wires didn;t follow what I considered to be aceptable routes. I soldered in about 18 inches of wire, and it was perfect.