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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Headlight Switch Smoked on my 2001 Today.

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I thought they had this problem fixed. I remember the recall on the older trucks, my '96 in particular. They would replace the headlight switch because there were instances where it might catch fire.

Well, today on the way to Sacramento, while driving in thick fog, and thus having the headlights on, suddenly I noticed smoke coming from that area of the dash! I turned off the lights and the smoking stopped.

Isn't that just lovely? I came home and made an appt to drop it off at the dealer in the morning.

And, for the record, I was towing my car out there and back to have rear end work done. One trip out with the car, one trip back empty. Then out this morning empty (when I had the smoke issue), and then home with the car. Those two trips == 14. 37 mpg, running ~70 mph... or just about the same as if I was empty. 6300 miles on the truck now.

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate 4. 10 USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, Edge EZ, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DD 4" Exhaust, US Gear Exhaust Brake, etc.
 
Rob, Did you by chance have your lites dimmed a bit,there are resistors in there to regulate the power flow to your cluster it is on other posts that if you dim a bit than it will gennerate heat but this is the first I have heard of one getting that hot hot hot #ad
Kevin
 
I don't keep them majorly dimmed... but I don't run 'em at full brightness either.

This is a really lame design if dimming the lights causes that crap to happen.

Rob
 
I have a '99. I run with my dash lights dimmed quite a bit. I also have the brite box and the jumper for the fog light overide installed. My switch does feel hot to me but so far no problems.
 
My headlight switch also gets hot! I placed a temp tattletail on the panel next to the dimmer and recorded 150f. I pulled the dash off to look and discovered the bummer... Stupid design... The dimmer is an open ended reostat, Guaranteed to get hot with the dash lamps dimmed. I am presently attempting to determine if it is possible to reduce the wattage of the panel lamps, then we can run full voltage on the lamps with no drop on the reostat and no heating ... . I hope.
Rich

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2001. 5 2500 ETH/DEE 4x4,Patriot Blue over Silver,Camper pkg, Trailer pkg,Agate Leather,Stainless Smitty Bars,Tow hooks,Amsoil... ... ... :) Except snowplow!
 
Driving my 2001 today, I noticed smoke coming from the headlight area of the dash. I then noticed that i had no dash lights or gauge lights. I pulled the fuse(#5) so i didn;t have to worry about it. My question is, has anything been done to correct this problem? What is the best way to fix it? It makes for different driving when you have no lights at night. Thanks



Chris
 
Not a fix, but a bandaid.



I drilled a 1/2" hole in the A/C air duct where the air will get to the switch. Then I run fan on #2 position and all vents blocked when I have the headlights on. This pressurizes the A/C duct and the air escapes out the drill hole toward the switch. I periodically feel the temp with my hand to see how it is going. If it is still getting warm, turn up the fan or turn on the A/C to cool the air.



Only need to do this if the lights are on.



I think I read somewhere on TDR that one member mounted a computer case fan back there to cool it. Be sure to use a high quality ball bearing fan if you do that.



Bob Weis
 
My 2001 hasn't smoked out yet. I just have my "headlight on" indicator lights go on and off. One time they will be on, a few days later off again. The "fog light on" indicator light has never had any problems. Switch panel doesn't seem overly hot to me either. Anyone else have this phenomenon?
 
reducing light current draw...

will just keep the lights from dimming very much. The voltage drop across the reostat depends on the current drawn through it.



On that topic, are those of you having trouble with the thing getting hot running any extra lights through it?



I'm thinking about building a power supply to supply any additional lamps so the light switch will only see the current draw of the original lamps in the dash.
 
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