Headlight switch?

[John Martines]

This morning I went to leave for work and had no headlights. My parking lights were on I wiggled the switch and nothing. Went and bought a new switch came home tried the headlights before I installed the new one and they work fine. My question is is this common for the switch to act up before they go bad or should I look someplace else for the prob.

 

[bflood]

Obviously intermittent problems can be hard to trace. Yes, a headlight switch can fail intermittently before final failure. This could also be caused by a failing dimmer switch (had it happen to me last week on my 86 Chrysler Laser). In either case, the internal contacts can become burned. Sometimes they will conduct if they engage just right and sometimes not. Usually when this happens it won't be long before ultimate failure.



When it failed, did you try using the dimmer switch to try both high and low beams? If only either high or low beam works, the likely cause will be the dimmer switch since the headlight switch sends power to the dimmer switch for both. If neither high or low beams work it still could be either headlight or dimmer switch.



You could wait for total failure or keep "playing" with it to get it to fail at which time, using your manual schematic/wiring diagram, you can trouble shoot between the two potential causes.



Since a headlight switch is only about $22 (I bought one for my truck at Carquest two weeks ago), and assuming I couldn't get it to fail again right away, I'd be tempted to go ahead and replace it and hope for the best. I think a dimmer switch, which is a "multifunctional switch", costs about $160(?).





There are other possible causes, such as an intermittant short in the wiring, but the most probable are either of those two switches in my opinion.



I hope this helps. Good Luck!

 

[Paychk]

The more common culprit with our trucks is the connector that attaches to the headlight switch, it goes bad and corrodes and then burns the switch lugs/wire slip connectors. Dodge has an upgrade switch/connector kit, the connector has chrome plated contacts and requires wiring into the harness. It also helps to pack the connector with dieletric grease AKA silicone grease, this helps prevent oxidation of the connector. Doing a search on headlight switch should turn up the part #.



I hope this helps

 

[R.E. Miller]

I guess I should have checked. My running lights don't work but my head lights do. No dash lights either and the fuses are ok. Time for testing.

 

[Lil' Dog]

R. E.

Save yourself some time and just replace the switch... My 89 did that very thing, then just 2 weeks ago my 93 did the opposite and the low/high beams cut out. . Drove home in the dark with just the DRL's. Pretty dim. .



J-eh

 

[McGivern]

In 10 years and 150K miles I've had to replace the light and dimmer switches. I think it's a common problem.

 

[bflood]

Light Switch

Okay, while we're at it . . . if you are pulling a rig with lots of running lights, It might be a good idea to power them through a relay (30amp?). Operate the relay coil, which uses very little power, with the head/parking light switch with a seperate battery supply for the trailer running lights. This will keep you from smoking that headlight/parking light switch which was not designed for all the extra trailer lights.



If you want, this is a good time to add a dashboard toggle switch in series with the relay activating coil so you can "flash" your trailer running lights.



Adding the relay was discussed recently in the forum. I have the parts and it is my next project.



Have fun! Oo.

 

[Lil' Dog]

Re: Light Switch

Originally posted by bflood





If you want, this is a good time to add a dashboard toggle switch in series with the relay activating coil so you can "flash" your trailer running lights.

Ahh , just like the ol Macks. . Spring loaded toggle, forward for high beams, back to knock out the trailer lights. LOL. .



J-eh