Headlight switch

[Lrand]

Can any body tell me an easy way to access the headlight switch on a 1997 dodge cummins 4x4 3/4 ton.

I diffently have a problem headlights keep flickering from bright to dim without switching to high beam does it even when on high beam.

The top of the dash where the switch is very warm to the touch and can smell a acrid smell like wire isulation being burned off.

Also how can you check to see if there is a re-call on same without

contacting a dealer?

Thanks Anybody!

 

[jsimpson]

I don't know of an easy way, but you have to remove the knob by releasing the catch on the switch body first. I know of no recall and the switch is a familiar probelm. The ebst way to handle it is to transfer the oads to relays and off of the switch. I use a separate switch for running lights, and a relay for the outside high beams of the sport lights. I learned the hard way with my 89 that the switch is barely capable of handling a normal load andd will burn up if you add ANY load to it (trailer lights, etc. )

 

[JPS]

HEAD LAMP RELAY

How can I tell if there is a relay installed? Bought truck used,so have no way of knowing. jps

 

[Bart]

Morning, I'm going through the same thing as you with headlight switch problem. To remove the headlight switch you have to remove the instrument cluster bezel. No big deal. Open the electricial accessory port at the top right of the cluster. There's a screw in there. Remove it. Next get a corner of the cluster bezel and pull. The rest of the bezel is a snap together. I had to put auto shifter in low to clear the bezel removing. Once off the accessory port elctricial wire must be removed (thumb pressure is all that's needed to remove the wire connector) or just roll the bezel over and lay it on the passenger seat with wire still attached. With the bezel out of the way the headlight switch can be removed by removing the the three screws that hold the switch in place. Pull the switch out and remove the connector (my problem). There are two retention clips (one on each side of the connector). Pull the connector off and the switch is loose. To remove the switch from the face plate push the metal button on the top of the switch and pull the knob out.



I have replaced the switch twice now (original and two replacements). The customer service (joke) people said "too bad so sad". I filed a complaint with NHSTA (posibility of fire or rear ender due to no tail lights). The jury is still out on that one.

If you replace the headlight switch Napa and Auto Zone sell the switch for $17- $20. Why the "STEALER" wants $97 I don't know but I'll be finding out here in a few minutes. The problem in my unit is the heat generated by the switch has melted the plastic wire connector.



Just talked to the stealer and their switch comes with the connector also.



Hope this helps.

 

[Ramboy]

One of the locals here with a '97 just had a DTT TC & VB installed on his truck one day before it burnt to the ground because of a faulty headlight switch. His insurance co. says they are going after DC for the expense.

 

[Extreme1]

There was a recall for some trucks, mine was covered after I had already replaced it.



If you smell wire insulation, you already need the harness repair section.



To remove the bezel on a '97 you need to remove the screws behing the cup spiller and ashtray, then it will snap off.



The switch is held in with 3 screws, piece of cake.



There was also a recall to add a relay to the running light circuit (the one that melts down). Fix it now, you WILL loose you running lights!