2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Headlight switch

[Kalaehina]

Every once in a while recently my dash lights will not come on with the parking lights and/or headlights, If I barely touch, tap the switch then they come on, and it doesn't happen alot. I replaced the headlight switch 2 years ago, could it be bad again? Just am not looking forward to doing that repair again! Like reconnecting a bundle of spaghetti... . Any info would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[Jim's slt]

Are you using stock bulbs?



Maybe double check if something is tapped in. (accessory?)



seems odd to get two bad switches, I burnt the switch out of my last truck with too high watt bulbs, And my high beams.

you've probably done these checks, I just like talking. . LOL



Jim

 

[Extreme1]

I sounds like the switch to me. Was your truck covered by the headlight switch recall a couple years ago? This added a relay for the running lights. and included a new light switch. The new switch has a ground tab on it, the NAPA replacement part doesn't.



You could remove the switch and look at it. The contact for the dash lights is exposed, you might be able to correct the problem is it's in front of you.

 

[Thomas]

Recall 819

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by Jim's slt

seems odd to get two bad switches

The headlight switches may not have been bad per sey, just not up to the task at hand. Just too much current flow. The recall was for the 3500 which has a few more lights due to the width. Without getting too technical, how much more demand do five "weenie" little marker lights take?



Your signature does not say 3500 so I will assume you have a 2500 by the tire comment.



Did the replacement switch have the relay as in the "fix"? If not, and you need to replace it again, get the relay.



Mine toasted the plug in harness so bad, I just seperated the leads and sorted them out, wired up a couple of relays and micro switches for everything. It's been roughed in almost a year without serious problems but I never refined it enough to post further documentation.

 

[Jim's slt]

Look again, ------(3500)------

you guys are really argumentative on this forum

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by Jim's slt

Look again, ------(3500)------

you guys are really argumentative on this forum

I don't see an argument on anyone's post here, just comment. If your taking my quote on your post as an argument then I apologize.

 

[Kalaehina]

When I did the replacement it only had the switch with the wires that I had ti solder to the original harness, I don't recall a relay. If I go to Dodge for another is that what I need to ask for, a new switch with the relay? I have a 2500 but I have overhead lights and tailgate id's so I'm near 3500 light #s.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Get the part number from the recall 819 site Thomas posted and take that with you to the dealer just in case. You may need to educate them. You certainly are not the first 2500 owner to have the problem extra lights or not.

 

[DSiemens]

Dodge dealer CAJM8190 is the Dodge kit that has the headlight switch and relay. I installed one on a 1995 3/4T. Going from memory but I believe that was/is the part number.

 

[Kalaehina]

Once again, thanks to my fellow TDR members for this information. You guys always save me from going insane. I'll make this my next project.

 

[Bandit1]

the harness on my headlamp switch melted the other day and is stinking up the cab of my truck. i called dodge and for the 98 model year all they sell is the switch and harness together for $80:--) , i was quoted 37 for just the switch that means that little black plastic plug and 8 inches of wire is almost $50, that is a raping if you ask me, pay $41k for a new truck and a piece of plastic burns out and you have to spend another small fortune to get it fixed. and it has to me a dodge only part.

 

[Bart]

I had this happen to my truck and the close to $100 quote. Instead, I made notes as to where each wire went on the headlight switch and got rid of the plastic holder. I put solderless connectors on the end of the wires after cutting off the burnt ends and reconnected them to the headlight switch. That was a year or so ago and to date no problems. That plastic holder was trapping heat and cooking the wire ends. I've taken it apart and checked and everything is fine. I did use a T&B brand crimper to make sure of a tight connection.