Here I am

Headlights quit working....

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Speedo good, odo not?

Clutch master cylinder bore size?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Connector kit

The connector kit with wires is for the replacement of a burned original. You can decide if the block or wire/s is burned such that you need the kit. The switch kit I bought from Dodge has the relay in the package.



1stgen4evr

James
 
Yes the switch that comes in the kit will plug into the stock connector. Remember the only difference between the connector/switch kit and the stock connector/switch is the chrome plating on the new pieces.
 
Changed the switch friday, just replaced it with the 94-97 unit. PLugged right in, looked like there were a couple of extra prongs on the outside, but I didn't see a wire for them, so I left them as is. One looked to be a ground, and I noticed the grounding mechanism for the '91 when I took it apart. I just put it back the way I found it. Works fine, nice to have headlights again. And my book arrived today. Excellent shape for a used book.



Thanks for all the help.
 
Thanks to this forum that it still exists or I wouldn't have a clue on how to replace my headlight switch on my 1991 Dodge D250 Cummins Diesel Standard Cab Truck. What happened was I was mucking around trying to tie my camper signal light into my electrical system and ended up killing my truck headlights. After undoing what I had done everything worked as usual except for the headlights. I thought is was a fuse but as it turns out there is no headlight fuse! After it was mention by another forum member here that if you held the high beam on/off steering column stalk back the headlights would come on (it did) then I was 99% sure it was the headlight switch relay.

Anyway, if anyone ends up here looking for an aftermarket replacement headlight switch relay for your 91 Dodge D250 like me, it's made by Echelin and carried by NAPA Auto Parts. It's listed as ECH HL6548. Just $17.73.

BTW, the release for the headlight pullout knob is a small spring loaded pin on the underside of the headlight relay/switch body. You have to contort yourself to reach up under there and push on the pin with your finger to release and just pull the headlight pullout knob out. Then you can unscrew the pullout knob collar, pull the harness down carefully and unplug the old switch from the harness and replace it with the Echelin aftermarket switch/relay.

Be sure to pull the negative cable of the battery first before you start so you don't inadvertently short something or worse.
 
Last edited:
2nd gen switch won't solve the problem. I've got one 2nd gen on its third switch, had already been replaced (badly) when I bought the truck.
 
Yeah, my high/low beam stalk sometimes "misses" a click too and the headlights go completely dark. Happens when I pull back too hard too aggressively. With a gentle pull, it changes back fine. All I know is that until I replaced the switch with the Echelin part, I had no headlights.

I also order a H4 relay harness to directly energize an 7 x 6 H4 illuminated glass lens instead draws it's power directly from the battery, bypassing the weak stock headlight relay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331273872366
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231505391530
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top