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4x4 Posi-Lok

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I'm looking for a vendor that sells stock Dodge parts at reasonable prices. What I'm
looking for is to install Dodge Sport headlight assemblies (brackets and all) in
a standard truck to get the extra high beams.
I want to buy new parts if possible but will
consider junk parts if available. Anyone?
Jay Bennett
 
I have heard talk about this, but don't quite understand. What is the difference between the standard and sport headlights?
 
a lot of $, separate high/low bulbs (cool if you want to go to xenon bulbs/transformers - but about $400 ea? ... from driving a gs 400 and an X5, xenon is AWESOME to drive by!!! Those "blue" bulbs are a JOKE by comparison)

also clearer lenses, VEWRY cool looking, yet still not great light (imho unless you also go xenon, which probably would solve the ram headlight problem). For about $700 Hella 4000's REALLY solve the problem.

flame on...
 
Problem resolved by friend who got me the
complete quad assemblies. They cost $205
each list and four xenon bulbs are another
$60. Puts out 500 watts on hi beam. Very
nice and no need for ugly hella hangons.
Hella 78581D bulbs work nice also and cost
about $80 a pair. See my web page http://home. pacbell.net/jaybo for more details.
 
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Jaybo:
Did you get the same lenses and everything that are on the Sport? How about the directionals? I really like the look of those, but $405. each to replace something that isn't broken is hard for me to justify.

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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LWB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; 265s; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Travel Convenience Group; Cab Clearance Lamps; Forest Green
 
The thing is the sports headlamp assembly is 142 if you know anyone that works at dodge, total was 286. 15 without buying the relay or two sockets, by doing this you get at least twice the high beams working. I say at least becouse I've wire it so the two outside are on high and the inside bulbs are on hight and low. Let me tell you it lights up for a mile.
Adam

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96 4x4, 3. 54 posi, 3" lift, 35" bfg m/t's,dual stabalizers, aluminium wheels, sport headlights,billet grill, tenzo blue foglights, K/N, NOS, Bullydog LPG, Tweaked Pump, Hx40 w/ 18. 5cm2, 4" exhaust w/ 2 chamber Flomaster, Jim Leonard street dual disc, Kenwood sterio System, Westach 60lb boost/ egt guage,aluminium bed rail covers, clear tail lenses w/ red bulbs,chrome diff covers, #10 tst and 370hp marine injectors, best performance to date= 445hp @ 2600 and 850lb of torque, and 14. 35 @ 98mph,
Adam
 
The part numbers listed are complete
assemblies with turning lamp lens, screws,
rubber gasket, and new bulbs, except no new
turning lamp bulb. At $205 per assembly
(list) they compare favorably in price with
aftermarket driving lights. The provided
bulbs are just your run-of-the-mill sylvania $4. 95 PepBoys specials. The real trick is
to wire both filaments to operate on Hi beam on the inside bulbs, as well as to replace all four bulbs with aftermarket 100 watt bulbs. Changeout is very easy but it works best to remove the black bumper facia first to avoid scratching it when removing the old assemblies. It is also much easier to do the additional wiring and rewiring with the assemblies removed. Total expense is about $400 including bulbs if you know someone at Dodge. These lights are now much better than any aftermarket arrangement I've seen and don't hang out all over the place. See my webpage (above) for a circuit diagram and part numbers.
 
When I upgraded my '98. 5 Sport headlights to the '99+ Sport headlights, I added a pair of 9007 & 9004 PIAA Paltinum Series Super White bulbs as well as the "special" Brite-Box (for the Sport headlight conversion in the '98 and PRIOR Rams). As the majority of my driving is at night/early morning, this has proven to be a very worthwhile addition.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, Dynamat, '00 Sport grille & valve cover, '00 Sport headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc, Amsoil Dual Bypass, Bosch 275s, VA CPC, (censored), Banks 14 cm2 turbine housing/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications
 
John:
The brite box runs both filaments on Hi Beam, just like my relay circuit does however the relay, fuse, and wiring can be bought for under $15 which is way better than Geno gets...
I tried PIAA's but was not happy with the brightness. They draw the same current as a stock Sylvania bulb (hence their DOT approval) even tho they claim the same light output as 100W bulbs. Fact is they don't. Hella's are much brighter as are the JC Whitney Xenon's. JC Whitney gets $15 each for a better bulb than the $40 PIAA; the Hella's are about $40 each too... .
Jaybo
 
jaybo, I believe you would have to run more than one relay on a '98. 5 (or prior) due to the headlight switching configuration ('98. 5 and prior = negative switching, '99+ = positive switching). And then there is the subject of terminal connections for the extra high beam bulbs... $15. total?, no way! In addition, the Brite-Box included EVERYTHING to effect the installation... this made for a very professional looking installation.

The PIAA Platinum Series Super White bulbs seem a little brighter, and VERY MUCH whiter! I've had these bulbs in my Ram since PIAA FIRST released them for sale. If I thought there was something that produced a higher quality light output, I'd purchase them. #ad


[This message has been edited by John (edited 09-17-2000). ]
 
John:
I'm not one to squabble but I have a '99 and also the service manual. I'm am also quite adept at schematics. The '99 headlight control and switching is done in the ground return leads. Fused battery is supplied directly to the lamps. One fuse for left, one for right. In addition, the quad lamp factory option has an additional fuse for the two added high beam lamps. Please consult the service manual and my schematic on my website. It is unlikely that Dodge would switch this around in earlier years, although anything is possible.

I am not selling anything and am not debunking "Brite Boxes. " They are fine for what they are which is merely a way to operate both high and low beam filaments when the driver selects high beam. If you like it , go for it. I was not satisfied with the light output from both filaments of one 9004 bulb and wanted more.

The subject of whiter and bluer etc. is subjective and reminiscent of Tide laundry detergent commericials. I bought and installed PIAA super whites, Hella 80/110's, and 3 types of J. C. Whitney 'off road only' models and compared them with each other and with stock bulbs. I have found that the more juice they draw, the brighter they are, all manufacturer's claims notwithstanding. I might add that to receive DOT approval (like the PIAA's) they CAN'T be TOO bright! The PIAA's draw 4. 8 amps on high beam whereas the Hella's and Whitney models (110W) draw 5. 9 amps. Even 5. 9 amps at 13. 5 volts is only 80 watts anyway! Color is largely a matter of personal preference; the blue bulbs seem to render color a little better but the whites seem to draw less attention.

I've replaced the stock 9004's with Hella 9007's (80/110) for the outer bulbs. The additional 2 amp load on either beam is not enough to damage the switches. However, for the inner two bulbs, a page is taken from the Dodge quad lamp schematic. The relay activation wiring is the same as Dodge does it. The relay, however, is a 40 amp relay, not Dodge's wimpy 20 amp one. A page is also taken from the 'Brite Box' boys as well: A new 30 amp fused circuit supplies both filaments of both inner bulbs on high beam for an additional load of 11. 8+9. 4=21. 2amps (290 watts). Number 12 wire is used and all components are well within their maximum ratings.....



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Jay Bennett Jay Bennett's Home Page
 
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FLASH:
Quad lamp high beams with aftermarket 100W bulbs will melt bulb base if both beams are operated simultaneously!! I ruined one bulb and melted plastic in both when both filaments were lit for 10 minutes straight. This also smoked up the inside of the lens assembly which is very hard to clean out! I have modified my circuit to only run one filament at a time! Brite Box users beware! This can happen to you!

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Jay Bennett Jay Bennett's Home Page
 
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Jaybo, I suggest you install a thermocouple in the headlight housing to moniter temps via a SPA headlight temp gauge #ad
You will likely need to use the 1000* scale for your configuration #ad


See you at the Ram Runners meeting next week lil guy #ad
 
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