Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
GAmes
TDR MEMBER
I'm happy to report there is no engine damage, just a partially dissolved gasket on the outer edge. With the miles I drive I don't believe it would have been a tiny seep for much longer, so I'm glad I did it now while the temps are still in the 60s.
A few things I found during the job of removal. (Replacement will be next week after a weekend of fishing
).
1. The $100+ Dodge shop manual leaves out some steps, like removing the alternator/grid heater wire harness, air horn, water temp sender wire, alternator and more.
2. The book has you loosen all the valve rockers prior to removal. Too late I realized that if I had turned the engine to #6 TDC and only loosened the six rockers that had tension on them I would only have to adjust six during install, and not the dreaded #6 cyl at all.
3. The head bolts and the push rods for #5 and #6 are too long to remove from the block because of the windshield overhang. After 20 minutes of cussing and trying different angles I discovered that there are two rubber plugs up there that cover a couple of large holes and with them removed it was no problem. No mention at all of them in the book.
4. Soaking the injectors in carb cleaner for about two hours makes removal pretty easy. (I used a homemade tool inspired by Joe Donnelly).
5. I fashioned a lift beam out of a piece of 1" galvanized water pipe slightly longer than the head. One end goes thru the lift eye at the rear and the front is tied to the lift eye with a few wraps of 1/4 inch rope. Another piece of strong rope in the center acts as an adjustable centering device and hooks to the engine hoist. My hoist is on wheels so once the head was clear I just rolled it away from the truck. A little tilting and maneuvering is required and I wished I had a helper for that part.
6. Once the head is on the bench a shotgun bore brush is the right size to clean the injector holes.
Kinda long but maybe someone will benefit from what I've learned.
A few things I found during the job of removal. (Replacement will be next week after a weekend of fishing
). 1. The $100+ Dodge shop manual leaves out some steps, like removing the alternator/grid heater wire harness, air horn, water temp sender wire, alternator and more.
2. The book has you loosen all the valve rockers prior to removal. Too late I realized that if I had turned the engine to #6 TDC and only loosened the six rockers that had tension on them I would only have to adjust six during install, and not the dreaded #6 cyl at all.
3. The head bolts and the push rods for #5 and #6 are too long to remove from the block because of the windshield overhang. After 20 minutes of cussing and trying different angles I discovered that there are two rubber plugs up there that cover a couple of large holes and with them removed it was no problem. No mention at all of them in the book.
4. Soaking the injectors in carb cleaner for about two hours makes removal pretty easy. (I used a homemade tool inspired by Joe Donnelly).
5. I fashioned a lift beam out of a piece of 1" galvanized water pipe slightly longer than the head. One end goes thru the lift eye at the rear and the front is tied to the lift eye with a few wraps of 1/4 inch rope. Another piece of strong rope in the center acts as an adjustable centering device and hooks to the engine hoist. My hoist is on wheels so once the head was clear I just rolled it away from the truck. A little tilting and maneuvering is required and I wished I had a helper for that part.
6. Once the head is on the bench a shotgun bore brush is the right size to clean the injector holes.
Kinda long but maybe someone will benefit from what I've learned.
