Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Heat hookups on FASS pump

[MHagen]

Has anyone hooked up the optional coolant lines on the FASS? I do not have my directions anymore. Do I hook this up to the return from the heater core and then return to the head? Do i need to put a valve on it to turn it off in the summer? Also what kind of temp change would I expect to see in the fuel. Is their an ideal fuel temp?



i realize that stations sell winter blend so gelling is really a non issue here. I would like to run higher percentages of bio during the winter. The truck always starts even if the fuel is heavily... i hesitate to use the word gelling cause bio doesn't really jell. It looks more like slush and snow. Anyway the "slush" is stopping at the filter. I can generally drive 15 minutes before I start to see the fuel pressure dropping. I was thinking thats plenty of time to get the truck warmed up and could be warming the fuel.



Mike

 

[JCyrbok]

Mike,



Do u use any fuel additives for anti gel/wax plugging? That would probably help if u do not.



As for the heater lines, it may be a better way, all though more expensive to get an electric heater that u could put just infront of the pump to heat the fuel before it goes through the filters/air separator. I had looked at a couple of Rancor models a few years ago but deceided that I did not really need one with #2, which is what I run in the winter.



I would think that the heater lines may actually cause a problem the first couple of minutes as the coolant would be as cold as the ambient (or close) temp and may actually be "sucking" heat out of the pump assembly until the coolant warms. But I may be wrong. As for a valve to shut off in the summer I would put one in so u are not heating the fuel to hot, which can contribute to VP injection pump problems.



Just a thought/hope this helps,



J-

 

[steved]

Mike,





I would think that the heater lines may actually cause a problem the first couple of minutes as the coolant would be as cold as the ambient (or close) temp and may actually be "sucking" heat out of the pump assembly until the coolant warms. But I may be wrong. As for a valve to shut off in the summer I would put one in so u are not heating the fuel to hot, which can contribute to VP injection pump problems.



Just a thought/hope this helps,



J-

If you would have the truck plugged in, I could see the warm coolant heating the FASS pretty quickly... cold soak would only happen if you were starting a cold truck, and then it is still only as cold as the ambient air temp which everything else would be at as well...



And I agree, I would definately put a valve on it to shut it off...



I think you are correct too, you plumb into the two lines to/from the heater core... should not make any difference to the port they enter on the FASS as long as the loop is completed...



steved

 

[MHagen]

I do not use any additives unless I'm out of bio then I run powerservice. I do plug it in so I can drive pretty quickly so I disturb my neighbors as little as possible(straight piped ). I don't think cold soak is an issue. So am I to assume that nobody hooks up the heat to the FASS? If I put a valve on it if I shut it off I will lose heat too. I'm wondering if this would hurt my heat performance with the extra restriction.



I'm planning on doing this anyway but I was hoping someone has done this and would have some tips and/or warnings.



Mike

 

[JCyrbok]

doesnt Bio have a higher gel/wax point than straight #2 (ie #2 begins to gel at 20deg F and Bio at a higher temp)?



I only run bio in the summer so I dont end up with a block of bio in my tank, so to speak.



I may be wrong but that is how I understand it.



J-

 

[steved]

So am I to assume that nobody hooks up the heat to the FASS?



If I put a valve on it if I shut it off I will lose heat too. I'm wondering if this would hurt my heat performance with the extra restriction.



Mike

OK, not many people worry about hooking the heating coil up... for a typical truck running #2, it isn't as big a deal... I was going to, but decided running the lines that far would not be worthwhile. I also bought a 80watt 12 volt pad heater to place on the filter instead... but again, a year later and it's still in the box...



As for the heater... you "T" into both lines, the return and the supply. You only scavenge part of the coolant from those lines, you are not making a single circuit where the coolant travels from the engine, to the heater, to the pump, and back to the engine. You basically create two circuits... one is the heater, the other is the pump. While they share the same supply and return lines, one will not affect the other. You would only put the valve on the line to the pump, not the heater... thereby not affecting your heat...



As for the bio vs #2... I'll leave that discussion to the experts...



steved

 

[WWildbore]

http://www.grassolean.com/?textFile=wad



This is a good site if you run bio or are thinking about it



wayne