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Heat woes continue...

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Brakes

Is this a TIPM issue?

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Well, that brings up another question. I have never figured out how and why my A/C cycles on and off even in cold weather. I've read in the past that the ECM is programmed to cycle the compressor from time to time to keep things free and oiled. I know my truck will randomly leak condensate out of the A/C drain hose on the firewall even in winter time when I never turned the A/C on. Do you think that is occurring on your truck? Guess you could find out by disconnecting the coil on the A/C compressor.
 
Well, that brings up another question. I have never figured out how and why my A/C cycles on and off even in cold weather. I've read in the past that the ECM is programmed to cycle the compressor from time to time to keep things free and oiled. I know my truck will randomly leak condensate out of the A/C drain hose on the firewall even in winter time when I never turned the A/C on. Do you think that is occurring on your truck? Guess you could find out by disconnecting the coil on the A/C compressor.
The A/C compressor kicks on in DEFROST mode to help take moisture out of the air and to keep the compressor seals from drying out from lack of use.

My compressor does not come on unless I go to DEFROST so it's not contributing to my problem.
 
Another possible solution to lack of heating

I was able to find a bunch through Google. Looks like can install a remote coolant filter for less than $50...
I wanted to offer this solution more for others reading than Mark's immediate problem. I have 2000 model and had some work done for a front end wreck - the summer time- so not using heating here in Texas. That fall/ winter I could not get any heat at all in the cab until a few miles from work on a 16 mile commute. We are not talking about cold Northern winters here either! I actually put a front cover over radiator for most of that winter and got heat in cab but not great unless I was driving 20-30 miles. The thermostat gauge also reflected that lack of heat. I finally got a replacement thermostat - went to Cummin's House in Ft Worth - paid 70.00 for a new one and noticed it looked NOTHING like the thermostat already in the truck. I got instant heat the 1st time I drove it (and replace the coolant I drained down). Moral - incompetent Collision repair place put wrong parts in truck while replacing radiator, and charge cooler. My best guess in looking at the 2 different thermostats- coolant was flowing past the the incorrect one constantly and never really allowing fluid around the block to heat up.
 
I was able to find a bunch through Google. Looks like can install a remote coolant filter for less than $50...

There is also a kit available through Pure Diesel Power (about $160) that comes with a custom fitted mounting bracket, coolant filter, hoses and clamps. Either method will do the job and you will have to plumb in your own heater core valve with either setup.

I really hope this works out for you for the rest of the winter. Also, I did not use the hose clamps that came with the kit; I went to a local hardware store and bought the appropriate sized spring tension clamps. My feeling is that screw-type hose clamps have a tendency to leak and further tightening them can cut the hose.

- John
 
At this point I have a 15 yr old truck with an unknown (to me) history since it was bought used. I want to remove the whole HVAC box and replace everything (evap, heater core, doors, etc) if for no other reason than peace of mind. The problem is it's not job I want to do in the cold weather (no indoor workspace available) nor can I afford to tie up the truck since I use it to plow my driveway.



If you decide to do the job, use the doors from Blend Door USA. I did the job several weeks ago and replaced the evap and heater cores, as well.
 
Try an OKLAHOMA t/stat.!! Put a piece of cardboard covering about 75%has had the same
Problem from day 1. You are wasting your time letting the engine idle.
A diesel does NOT build much for Cylinder temp. Until it is working, and at idle
It is NOT working.
 
Try an OKLAHOMA t/stat.!! Put a piece of cardboard covering about 75% of the radiator.
My 2011 has had the same Problem from day 1. You are wasting your time letting the engine idle.
A diesel does NOT build much for Cylinder temp. Until it is working, and at idle
It is NOT working.
 
Try an OKLAHOMA t/stat.!! Put a piece of cardboard covering about 75% of the radiator.
I have a Mopar winter cover on it.

You are wasting your time letting the engine idle.
A diesel does NOT build much for Cylinder temp. Until it is working, and at idle
It is NOT working.
I understand the warm-up (or lack thereof) for the CTD and can live with that. What I can't live with is that even after the truck is up to temp, the heat is lukewarm at best. There is no real heat being thrown from the heater.
 
For those who believe you will have low heater output because the air conditioner is operating, this is not the case. In my experience most vehicles equipped with AC will automatically turn on the AC compressor whenever the "defrost" function is selected, whether you want the AC on or not. One important reason is to bring the incoming outside air through the evaporator core and to cool that air down to near 32*F to squeeze out moisture from the air (cooling the air below 32*F will cause evaporator icing).

When that very dry air leaves the evaporator core, all of the air is directed through the heater core, around the heater core, or in any combination of blending by passing through and around the heater core simultaneously to get the desired air temperature.

The heater core by design easily raises the incoming outside air temperature from well below freezing to well over 120*F on a medium fan setting if all of the air is being directed through the heater core.

Once the outside air temperature falls well below 32*F, the air conditioning compressor will begin to cycle less frequently due to the pressure / temperature relationship of the refrigerant. When the outside air temperature is 20*F below zero, for example, the AC compressor will have stopped cycling altogether because the refrigerant pressure is too low to operate the system and is not needed anyway. Even the 20*F below zero air will easily be heated by a properly operating HVAC system.

- John
 
I have a Mopar winter cover on it.

I understand the warm-up (or lack thereof) for the CTD and can live with that. What I can't live with is that even after the truck is up to temp, the heat is lukewarm at best. There is no real heat being thrown from the heater.



Do you have visually inspected the heater core? Maybe there is something inside the ducts that blocks the air partly from passing the heater core. My Truck had a lot of leaves and other garbage inside when i bought it.
 
Do you have visually inspected the heater core? Maybe there is something inside the ducts that blocks the air partly from passing the heater core. My Truck had a lot of leaves and other garbage inside when i bought it.
There's no way to visually inspect the core without removing the HVAC box. In post #59 I said
I removed the blower motor and checked the evap core which is ahead of the heater core. There was no significant debris. Plus, the A/C worked fine all summer so the airflow is not being restricted.
 
my 06 is very cold blooded. but i made my own air dam behind the grill. i blocked everything off.it heats a lot better now .i do not drive the truck unless i,am working it . if i want heat fast i take the car.but the truck will give some heat 5 to 6 min of in town driving.9 to 10 min. of driving good heat. killer heat 15 min.it sounds like the heater core is jammed up?
 
I should have some time Saturday morning to do another flush. It'll be raining/snowing...
Just my luck, everything is covered in ice. Temps are just shy of freezing and it's raining so it's freezing on contact. Luckily it's supposed to get into the mid-40's, possibly even 50 later today so I'm still hoping to get to this. Yesterday I received the new Cummins t-stat so I'm going to replace that as well.

If neither of these help then I'll need to decide whether to wait it out until spring when I can replace the core and all the HVAC doors, or try replacing the water pump.
 
We are awaiting the freezing mess, only snow so far as it was only 13 here. Up to 18 now and snowing lightly.. really glad that I don’t have to go anywhere today..
 
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