2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Heater core-brass or alminium

[DWJoy]

I am replacing the evaporator and heater core. Some place I read that the brass gives more heat. I have a 96 2500 extended cab and have never gotten much heat and do not want to get less. I would like comments on others experience. Where can you get the brass and how much?

 

[CumminsPuller]

Depending on year, make, model will dictate whether it will be copper/brass vs. aluminum. Copper/brass on older vehicles is more common. The new vehicles they are pumping out now days will more than likely be aluminum. There are some vehicles you can find heaters made from both materials. In the aftermarket world the manufacturer is more than likely going to dictate if they are going to make it in aluminum or copper/brass regardless of what OE was. At our shop, I would much rather have my guys install a copper/brass heater than aluminum and most people (customers) who we deal with prefer this whether it is a heater or radiator. But then you have others that just want the cheapest.

Copper/brass heaters are soldered together whereas aluminum heaters are baked in an oven to adhere (seal) the tube to header joints.

With all of that said. Copper/brass heaters (copper core/brass tanks) have a cellular style core. If they core begins leaking they are not very repairable. If the inlet or outlet connections are the ones leaking or the tank is cracked this is highly repairable. Aluminum heaters, most of the time, begin leaking at the tube to header joints and not repairable. The tube material is much thinner than the header plate. So the heat required to attempt to repair this kind of leak will burn a hole in the tube before the header plate is hot enough to repair.

With copper/brass heaters we can build what we call a conversion core. This core is fashioned after traditional copper/brass radiators and is highly repairable, if in the future they begin to leak. But most people do not opt to do this due to the cost.

Radiator cores are built out of three main metals: Copper, aluminum, and steel. I am going to make a statement along with providing a list. This statement and list could create some controversy. I am not trying to achieve this and do not want to start an argument. Just one TDR member trying to help others.

As far as Thermal Conductivity or heat dissipation goes (my memory is evading me at this point regarding the technical term, but I believe that is what it is called). The order goes like this:

1. Copper
2. Aluminum
3. Brass
4. Steel

I have always remembered this as CABS.

I will have to say this. I do manage a radiator shop if you can not tell. I appreciate the opportunity to share my opinion and what I have learned over the years.


Jason

 

[GHarman]

Thermal conductivity of metals

DWJoy, Check out this chart. It may change your mind! However, the reality is practicality. Will it last? Can it be repaired? What is available?



Heres a chart. Thermal Conductivity of Metals.

Thermal Conductivity of Metals



Hope this is helpful!

GregH

 

[CumminsPuller]

The link supplied GHarman is a great link with metals listed in alphabetical order. I will bookmark this. I had never seen it before.



Jason

 

[JMDancoe]

Do you have the heater box open yet? I ask this because I have never had a Chrysler product, car or truck the the heater would not run you out because of the heat. However, if the box is loaded up with leaves and other trash, which is not uncommon, then you can have a problem due to air flow restriction. Can also limit A/C arflow. If when you get inside the box, you find this problem, I strongly suggest you install a "clean out" panel in the box and periodically clean it out. Also, some guys install a screen system to prevent trash from getting in. You can research the forums and find instructions complete with pictures as how to do this.

 

[DWJoy]

I do not have it open yet but the poor heat problem has been since new. I guess it was a problem 95- 96 models.
Thanks for the tec. info on the medals.
I called NAPA and a local radiator shop and all they had was aluminum.
Any idea who would have a copper one?

 

[Missouri Mule]

I have a 96 plenty of heat!

 

[JMDancoe]

My 96 gas rig (see signature) will run you out on full heat, so there must be a problem with yours. Two years ago, we replaced the heater core due to a leak and "believe it or not", our local Autozone offered two. One aluminum and one brass. The brass was considerably more ($20. 00 more - I think), but I bought it. Had to replace it about 6 months later due to a leak at the inlet/oulet tubes, as it is a universal design, which has moveable tubes. It was replaced by Autozone free of charge (lifetime warrantee) and the new one has given us no problems. Obviously, I don't know if they still offer the option of the two, but it may be worth checking out. Are you getting lots of air flow and just not hot? You may have a restriction in the hoses or tubes prior to the hoses. Has the truck always had a good coolant mixture? Depending on your area's water, you may have rust flakes in the tubes or the core itself. Have you owned the truck since new? I haven't seen it in years now, but in older days, sometimes a new block had a lot of metal chips and core sand left in them. Heater cores are a good place for them to clog passages. Are you getting good engine heat (190 degrees roughly)? Good luck and let us all know what you eventually find. One other suggestion, google up brass heater cores and see if you can find someone who makes them for your truck.

Jim