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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Heater Core Help??????

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OK - I've asked before and you guys have been great..... Please help with detailed instructions on replacing the core... . also I have a devil of a time finding stuff I asked about earlier - but somebody mentioned that JD or somebody had printed the detailed instructions - and it was in the TDR - BUT for sake that issue is the one that I can't find... ... .



1. Also somebody mentioned a certain brand of core that was maybe better and was easier to replace because as I remember the lines were "flexible" or were able to move somehow.....



2. Look at these photos - this is a liquid that is coming out of the heater vent - no fogging of the windows BUT - it is the color of antifreeze - not a lot - so I can't tell the smell... .



3. AIRBAG - how do you disable it???????



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issue #46 has a great "how to" for changing the evaporator. Same deal for this. Loosen the Dash, pull it back and that will expose the heater core. You can change it without removing the HVAC box.



I think the how to starts on page 12. I just replace my evaporator and heater core. I use OEM evap, but the NAPA heater core worked fine. Now I just have to work out the gurgly noise.



For the A/B, just disconnect both batteries, and before you pull back the dash you'll diconnect the A/B computer on the center tunnel.



If you don't have the #46 issue, pm me and I'll get it too you.
 
I replaced my heater and evaporator core in our '97 in Nov. 2005 and it started with a slight drip from the same vent duct (low spot in the system). I wrote a detailed email about the repair. Older truck than yours but info may help. It is a bugger of a job and I would recommend seriously looking at your evaporator core for replacement at the same time, you don't want to get back in there any time soon! I'll send you a email to my post. Good luck!
 
How do I get issue 46? AC died over the weekend: took it in for charging, they found a leak in the evaporator core. Wanted $600 labor, 150 parts. I don't think so!!
 
Evaporator Core????

You guys talk about replacing this when you have the heater core out - how much is it and where is it located?????????
 
I did the heater core/evaporator core replacement about 2 weeks ago on my '97 3500 Diesel. It most certainly was a bugger of a job but wasn't too bad as long as you have a fair amount of time because you will get frustrated, at times. It took me several days because I wanted to be thorough, not do it again for several years, hopefully, and I work shorter days now (newly retired). A few more thoughts to add all of the excellent posts I read through.



My heater core went out during the summer but didn't really have time because our youngest daughter was getting married in August so I just bypassed the heater with a piece of hose. Glad I did because then the evaporator core went out and their both in the same housing. We were down in Yuma and a repair shop wanted over $650 for labor for the job so there's good incentive! Need the evaporator here and the heater core in Oregon. Joe Donnelly's article in issue 46, page 12-15 is real good, as far as it goes, which is heater core replacement. Joe has a helpful list at the end of his article with socket sizes. If I was in that deep, I would go in and check the condition of the evaporator core (same age). If you notice a reduced volume of air flow on the 4th speed of your fan, it may well be because the blower air goes through the evaporator core before the heater core. Besides leaking (green dye from AC shop helps locate), our evaporator core was almost ½ plugged with leaf debris and, apparently, dog hair from the first owner's (probably running on recirculated air from the cab).

Parts- Did some checking around, NAPA had a good price for a heater core ($107 and good being relative) and got it in one day but I didn't like the aluminum core and “flex” crimped fittings that swivel (probably fits other trucks). It may well work fine for quite some time but didn't want to wonder if the “swivel” gaskets would hold up more than a couple of years. Aluminum tubes were also roughly bent and gouged from their tube bender (China). AC shop part prices were between NAPA and Dodge but the “guaranteed” brass core wound up being same aluminum “flex” as NAPA after 3 day wait, GRRR. Dodge core (Taiwan) was way too expensive at $227 (they know what the competition core is) but it is a “direct” replacement for the old one with a nice core and nicely soldered copper tubes (saving on labor helped price of core!). Tubes were bent perfect and a little longer which makes for easier hookup. It also had all of the foam padding glued on so it will fit tight and stay put so it won't vibrate around and leak over time. Be careful tightening the clamp at the tube/core solder connection so you don't build in a strain that could leak, over time. NAPA evaporator core ($158) was cheaply made and one tube was bent about 15 degrees off needed bend (not much room for incorrect bend hookup on this core) and again, no padding. Dodge core was $198 but perfect replacement with padding and tube insulation just like the original (this core was even made in the USA!!). Hate the outrageous prices (especially for foreign cheap labor parts) compared to the old days but what can you do (a lot cheaper than new truck payments).



I didn't have a problem with dropping the steering column only onto the seat but really look ahead for strained wires (especially if you have added accessories) and the metal plate below the column also needs to be removed because sharp edges press against column wires with it dropped. I didn't have a (major,grrr) problem with the 5 dash board top 10mm screws (thin deep wall sockets and extensions essential!) on removal but trouble with center screw on reinstall because dash was warped a little low in the center. Filing point on screw (and choice cuss words) got it back in (no squeaks, old Ford dash had bad squeaks!). Figure out how the cheap O-ring tool works, if you don't know already, before you remove refrig lines (pretty simple, once you know). Be very careful with seal areas of tubing (I slightly gouged one tube end seal area I couldn't see on disconnect and had to polish out with fine emory and crocus). Any flaw could cause O-ring leak. “Always” use new O-rings of right compound on refrig tubes and lube them with PAG oil (tubing “snaps” together pretty slick). I put 2 oz directly in the inlet of the evaporator core tube and 3 ozs in the new accumulator (Dodge book says 4 and AC shop said 2 so I put in 3 into the “inlet” tube). You have to remove the accumulator to access heater box nuts so replaced (AC shop said accumulator only good for 5/6 years (hmm) but want system to work good after all this. Again, NAPA part ($63, Dodge $126, double, hmmm) looked cheap (aluminum & China made may be OK but can't see inside) but incorrect angle on outlet tube that may or may not have hooked up. You don't want unnecessary leaks, vacuuming and recharging AC way too expensive for that! Remove and clean fixed orifice screen and regulator in condenser outlet tube end. Reach straight in “gently” with long needle nose pliers with “real” good serrations on the jaws, (don't bugger up ID of tube, sealing area!), it will come out hard at first because of “O” rings. It is critical to keep water and crude out of all tubing and internal AC parts!! Keep tubing and parts clean and sealed until just ready for assembly!



Holding up right end dash board to remove and install heater/AC box is absolutely necessary! I was working outside so rigged a 2 X 4 across top of cab and open right door. Using rope and bungies, I held right dash end about 8 inches up and 6 inches back beyond dash “roll back” position to just have enough room to remove and install box (still a &@*_, watch all vacuum hoses, especially “two” on actuator on floor board and be gentle with temp control cable removal!). Left end of dash will behave, if you loosen left pivot bolt well and watch for wire strains around steering column and dash area.



Take your time and thoroughly clean the box of crude. Also I took the time to clean crude from cowl and wiper motor area or it may wind up in your new parts. I have pictures if anyone is interested or wants more info. Sorry for the length of this email but found other Members details very helpful. We now have Great AC and heat!! Take your time, think about the money your saving and good luck!
 
How do I get issue 46? AC died over the weekend: took it in for charging, they found a leak in the evaporator core. Wanted $600 labor, 150 parts. I don't think so!!



Where are you? A location by your name might get a member to share.
 
Don't even think twice. If your in there to change the heater core change the evaporator. I work on vehicles all day. Anytime I have to pull a heaterbox out they're both getting changed. I would definitely go with the OEM evap. the aftermarket units just don't fit correctly. You wind up having to bend the tubes & it's never quite right. Take the heaterbox all the way out,if where you live is any thing like the Northeast, when you open the box you'll probably find lots of debris. It gets in through the cowl vent, combines with the condensation from the evap. when you run your a/c & rots the core and/or the evap.
 
Well said, WJohns. I couldn't agree more. Our '97 truck was a one owner before we bought it 5 years ago. When I got into the heater/evaporator core replacement I found that the first owner obviously had a dog with fine hair and they were in hot country and ran the air conditioner on recirculate which sucked in the dog hair from the cab. The evaporator was over half plugged with dog hair which also explained the low volume air flow even with the fan on high!!
 
Hammersley sent me a request for original photos that resulted in what you saw in Issue 46. My server was unable to connect to his, and receive the photos.
 
Broken Windshield - is it easier replacing with windshield out???

Seems as though it would be - is this an option since I have to change the windshield anyway?????
 
Independent Shop nearby?

My heater core started leaking 3 summers ago. I bypassed it to keep the coolant from leaking out - until Fall came around. Then I knew that I had to get it fixed. I found a great Indy nearby who replaced my heater core for $200 - I bought the core from NAPA for $40. Didn't do the evap then - still works fine.

You may want to call around to see if there is a good Indy in your area. For $200 I just didn't want the headaches. BTW, he is the fleet maintenance supv. for a company that runs about 30 Dodge CTD 3500 chassis cabs with Reefer boxes - so he knows the truck. Maybe there is a small business that runs Dodge CTDs around you. Find out if they fix there own or use someone else - that would give you another option.
 
Indy ??????

My heater core started leaking 3 summers ago. I bypassed it to keep the coolant from leaking out - until Fall came around. Then I knew that I had to get it fixed. I found a great Indy nearby who replaced my heater core for $200 - I bought the core from NAPA for $40. Didn't do the evap then - still works fine.

You may want to call around to see if there is a good Indy in your area. For $200 I just didn't want the headaches. BTW, he is the fleet maintenance supv. for a company that runs about 30 Dodge CTD 3500 chassis cabs with Reefer boxes - so he knows the truck. Maybe there is a small business that runs Dodge CTDs around you. Find out if they fix there own or use someone else - that would give you another option.



Do you mean independent???????
 
How do I get issue 46? AC died over the weekend: took it in for charging, they found a leak in the evaporator core. Wanted $600 labor, 150 parts. I don't think so!!



My local guy wants $1000 for the complete job. Heater core, evaporator, etc etc,. #@$%!

He said that included parts, and he only uses factory parts.

Maybe I'll dig up issue #46. I have nothin but time now.

My heater core is fine, but the A/C started up last summer. Two cans of 134 kept it going the rest of the summer.

This summer I put in 2 cans, and it lasted 3 days:{

Eric



BTW Mine is a 98 if that makes a difference. I also get Mopar parts @ a discount. :p
 
i just did the dreaded heater core / evap repair last weekend. i used a "four seasons" evap core,it did not have padding around it. i used foam tape that protects the truck bed from a bed cap. i tried to use a "four seasons" heater core,but the coolant tubes did not fit the way they should. i ended up using a napa alum heater core,it fit perfectly. i really didn't care for the swivel design of the coolant tubes,but i guess it might be better in some aspects. i also installed a new ac drier asy and four oz of pag oil in the evap. all the work went pretty good. two things;#1,my truck is an auto. i had to remove the shift ind cable and bracket on the steering col. #2,when putting the dash back start the middle screw,just under the windshield,first. the middle screw goes into steel,not a plastic insert. the fact that an elec storm shut down the power for two hours did not help. i put most of the dash back in by flashlight. then had to wait for power to charge the ac. between the first heater core not fitting and storm delays the job took about eight hours. about five actual working hours.
 
How hard physically is this to do?

I'm waiting on back surgery.

Thanks

Eric



BTW I'm mobile, I can walk stand etc, just not one position for any extended length of time. :{
 
you have to remove the air filter box,the computer,and reach the heater hose connections under the hood. you also have to twist around up under the dash,lift the dash up and pull it back. then pull the heater/ac box off the firewall,and extract it from the cab. i would not want to do any of this with a sore back. i would think it would be asking for trouble. just my $. 02 .
 
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