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Heater Grid Delete?

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I've got an intake manifold coming and wondering if I should remove the "heater grid" what does this heat? From what I know it's a heat element for the air intake. Why would you need this?
 
I've got an intake manifold coming and wondering if I should remove the "heater grid" what does this heat? From what I know it's a heat element for the air intake. Why would you need this?



It's a pre-heating element for your incoming air charge. It is only used when the IAT sensor sees manifold temps of less than 59F.
 
To help it start cold. This engine has no glo plogs. Instead it heats the incoming air. It will start cold without it but will start harder and run rough etc. Colder it is the worse it will be. Do a SEARCH on grid heater delete. Ought to be a fair amount of reading.
 
It warms the incoming air to help with combustion/starting on cold days. If you live in warmer climates, you don't have to have it. But, even here in the south, I need it. I've forgot to let it cycle a few times at or below freezing, and the motor doesn't like it. It'll crank below freezing without it, but it will protest. It cycles some after the engine is running for emmissions reasons. Leaving it out will improve intake flow and performance. A few vendors make a blank spacer to place between the horn and manifold.
 
Tinman-I must respectfully disagree with your statement about leaving out the grid heaters with improve intake flow. I have read that on several TDR posts in the past. However, I do not believe that the grid heaters restrict engine intake flow. What makes you think that they do?



Regards,
 
I saw a photo of the heater grid and then the spacer that replaced I could see how it would improve airflow with out as much material in the opening. But at what cost/gain. I have to think anything done to let the engine breath easier is good. The common rail engines dont have glow plugs? Glow plugs warm the fuel or the combustion chamber? Never really fully understood exactly how these work. So the heater comes on at 59*F. This does not seem very cold. So say starting the engine at 40*F with no heater? Starts barelly and once everything warms up all good? 20*F Can the engine start? Lots of questions but thats why I'm asking. Thanks
 
Hi Andy. I would do a thread search for "grid heater" or "grid heater delete" or something like that. You will find a ton of info rather than waiting for people to post it here.
 
I had a friend that took his out of his 05 two years ago, it started just fine @-3. So I never used mine all last winter,just to see how it would start up in the U. P. of Mi. when we was snowmobiling. It was -10 when I left , truck started just as always with out them! So I removed mine, I did find out that you can not remove the relay,as I did, had to put it back on. With out the relay it gives code # 541 low voltage to heater grid relay. It has been -4 and started like it was 30 out. I have never pluged the truck in! I did not like the heater grids coming on and makeing the lights go dim. IMO. that is hard on the alt. My guy that works on alt. (job) he did say that he thought it was hard on the chargeing system as well! But thats just my $. 02 worth!
 
I removed my heating grid block 1 month ago and replaced it with the bare block from Glacier Diesel. This morning it was 8 degrees in NJ. and my truck started at first crank. I haven't had any problems starting my truck at all since i took it off. I took mine off when i installed my CFM so i am not sure if there is any performance gain from just the heater block. I definitely did notice a performance gain from doing both. In my opinion anything that stands in the way of airflow is slowing it down unless it is designed in a way that it makes the airflow smoother and less turbulent and almost propels it forwards. I don't think that this grid was designed that way. Could be wrong.
 
DPellegrin: I have seen better flow without the heater stated many times in various places and it makes sense. l believe I did see some testing by CFM that stated their intake flowed as good with the grid and the stock one did as without the grid. So I guess that is an objective measure, or at least as objective as a vendors own testing can be.



My comments about cold starting without letting the heater warm up was with the 2 Gen. The CR motors start much better in cold temps. NFry's comments has me thinking of getting rid of the one on the '06. :rolleyes:
 
I had a friend that took his out of his 05 two years ago, it started just fine @-3. So I never used mine all last winter,just to see how it would start up in the U. P. of Mi. when we was snowmobiling. It was -10 when I left , truck started just as always with out them! So I removed mine, I did find out that you can not remove the relay,as I did, had to put it back on. With out the relay it gives code # 541 low voltage to heater grid relay. It has been -4 and started like it was 30 out. I have never pluged the truck in! I did not like the heater grids coming on and makeing the lights go dim. IMO. that is hard on the alt. My guy that works on alt. (job) he did say that he thought it was hard on the chargeing system as well! But thats just my $. 02 worth!



Where is the relay located on the 06?
 
The relay is on the right side battery, sorta under your inlet air line from your filter, I did not want to say too much about the inprovement,of air flow,but when I removed mine,that was when I put my afe intake on at the same time! made my truck smoke alot less! More air = less smoke! I could see that in the first five miles I drove.
 
The relay is on the right side battery, sorta under your inlet air line from your filter, I did not want to say too much about the inprovement,of air flow,but when I removed mine,that was when I put my afe intake on at the same time! made my truck smoke alot less! More air = less smoke! I could see that in the first five miles I drove.



Me too. I cant even make my truck smoke anymore. :mad: I looked where u said and i only see the solenoid. Maybe im looking in the wrong place?
 
There should one cable from the battery to the relay( solenoid) two little wires, too the relay & one large cable to the grid heater.
 
contact winspeed if you want more info on this subject, as they have made some and done some dyno research with them. On my truck i have seen about 2 more lbs of boost and 50+ egt drop in cruising temp, it's not a night and day difference but it is a very nice part for not much $$$ :)



Winspeed # 925-370-7245
 
There should one cable from the battery to the relay( solenoid) two little wires, too the relay & one large cable to the grid heater.



ooops. I removed my solenoid and my checkengine light never went off. Been trying to get it to go off but its been tough. We took out my friends and left his solenoid in, and his check engine light went off after 32 start cycles. HHHHHHHHHHMMMMMMMMMMM what should i do? Thanks You've been a great help.
 
code 541

i removed my solinoid and the check engine light came on, i checked the current draw of the solinoid and it was 0. 8 amp i hooked a 20 ohm 10 watt resistor i had in the junk box to the two small wires used smarty to erace codes and all is ok , none of our commercial 5. 9 have heaters
 
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