Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) heater grid

[ramman-mn]

Is there a way to remove half the heater grid in a 2002 Dodge 2500 diesel truck, and leave the other half in. And also would this set a code or what? Thanks. Oo. Please need your help. I'm not looking for performance I want to lessen the draw on the batteries and alternator--it dims my lights (I've been pulled over by a policeman thinking my truck was flashing it's lights at him). please please please please please please please please please please tell me how to cut or take one of the heater grids out i don't live in a cold state or wish to visit one

 

[monkeyman]

Why would you want to? If you live in a warm place, or plug your truck in, or have an Espar. You don't need the grids. I find no performance advantage removing them.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

you can just unhook the relay connectors, but if you live somewhere where its cold good luck starting the truck and running right until the engine warms up

 

[jkidd]

supposed to be 5HP gain for removing the grid heater. Its not going to register on the seat of the pants meter. If you are below 20 degrees F then you want to keep the grid heater unless you have another alternative.



Make sure you have good contacts for your battery/cables if your lights are dimming.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

From what I have read, the grid heaters offer only marginal help on startup. Many cold weather guys on here have stated that theirs are unhooked or removed all together and had no problems starting. There is a mod I found somewhere on here once that allows you to install an oil pressure switch that will turn them off upon startup. If you want, I can upload it tonight.

 

[ramman-mn]

interested

yes please upload im interested. does this turn on and off when i wont it to or what thanks

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

The circuit will be complete until the oil pressure rises (upon startup. ) That will break the circuit and stop the grid heaters from cycling. You will not be able control it. I saved it to a word document on my computer at home and will attach it or past it tonight.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

some guy named Dean posted this awhile ago. I have not done it yet so I cannot comment, but think I might when I start putting my CTD back together... .....



"If any of you can't live with the codes being stored in the ECM/PCM don't bother with this fix. When changing the control circuit, the ECM detects a lack of current draw and will set codes



P0380 Intake air heater relay #1 control circuit

P0382 Intake air heater relay #2 control circuit



Neither of these two codes bring on the MIL-check engine light, or should I say it hasn't in the trucks that we have done it to.



You need a pressure switch, what I found for ya'll is a Borg Warner S320 oil pressure switch. This is a single spade normally closed (N. C. ) open on rise pressure switch. Install the switch at the plugged pressure port on top of the oil filter/cooler assembly, both the switch & port are 1/8"NPT. I would use some ultra copper sealant on the threads to insure good current flow, as Teflon tape can act as an insulator. Now disconnect both of the ground wires from the grid heater solenoids, they should be the black/tan wires. Run a wire from the pressure switch to both of the poles on the solenoids, and your done.



How it works:

You will only have a complete control circuit when the engine is not running and there is no oil pressure. Once you start the engine and pressure comes up, the control circuit is broken. "

 

[MAllen1]

I know ATS has a "spacer" that replaces the grid heater. I also would say that if you live in South where it doesn't get 20 degrees or lower that many days out of the year, you could live without the grid heater.