Heavy duty torque converters.

[flathead6]

May need to make this decision soon in a 92 W250 Cummins. What do you guys recommend as a replacement heavy duty torque converter? All opinions welcome! Thanks.

 

[mykal41]

Pro-torque

Pro-torque converters in bohemia NY. They have a website.

 

[Buffalo]

You may want to take a look at DTT (Diesel Transmission Tech. )



Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[zstroken]

Dave Goerend service and warranty second to none. He has done several custom convertors for me the last year or so. 563-778-2719. Sometimes he is tough to get ahold of. Leave a message he will call you back!

 

[lethal injection]

HTS TRANSMISSION call DUSTY or ride in one of the trucks.

 

["Mad Max"]

Just ordered my HD unit from DTT, should be here tomorrow.

- M2

 

[LiftedLimo]

I used Oregon Tourque Convertors when I did my rebuild. I got the lowest stall they offer for the style of convertor. Hands down the best mod I've ever done for my truck. Made it a diffrent vehicle even before all the power goodies went on .

 

[flathead6]

what %

Also, I have seen some discussion on another thread about percentages of something (????) when refering to the non lock up torque converters. When they say the converter is 89% or 91%. What is the % they are refering to? Also, what is the % of a stock converter? Thanks.

 

["Mad Max"]

The percentage means how much of the engine's output power is being sent to the tires via the converter. Meaning, an 89% converter will send 89% of the engine's torque to the transmission/tires, and allow for some stall (slippage) just like all automatics. A 91% converter will send 2% more. The 91% converters are primarily used for drag and pulling applications where big, really big hp and tq numbers are being made, but not really recommended for street driving. Ask the guys at PDR about that.



Of note - factory stock converters are rated around 60%. So, when your on a hill, and the engine is revving its heart out, and the truck just slows down, it's because the stock converter in the truck is literally bleeding out. There's nothing wrong with the transmission or the converter, just simply they were designed that way from the factory. The reason for that is because the early A-518/46RH transmission's can't handle much more than 250 hp without eventual breakage, so the factory detuned the engines to 130 hp and that made it so they could get the trucks on the market without big problems with the transmission's - they hadn't got the lock-up converters fine tuned yet, so, they got out what they could. Dodge was slated to introduce the Cummins in 1985, but they couldn't get a frame or transmission to handle the torque yet, so it had to wait until 1989. And the overdrives weren't ready until 1991, which is why the 1989-1991 rigs had the 3. 07 gears.



I say 'eventual' breakage (read: failure) because not all of them will break or even wear out, but, big power will probably make a stock transmission fail. With BIG power (aftermarket turbo, like an HX-35 or better) and a small collar (like a 16 or 14cm), where you have quickquick spool up on the turbo and big fuel (POD's or big injectors), the input shafts on a 518 can snap on a hard launch especially with a big load - something has gotta give, and the overdrives have smallish oil passages and can literally cook internally under long-term heavy towing. . under big power.



DTT used to advertise their converters in percentages, but they're now building each converter custom ordered to customer specs. I'm installing my new DTT converter tomorrow. I ordered it from Laser Bob at Laser Track and Alignment in Greeley, CO. These are the specs as I ordered it:



- Up to 300 hp

- 20,000 gross towing weight

- Not a drag race application

- 2wd

- No other transmission mods (including valve body), except for a MHT deep pan.



So, there are other less expensive converters. In my first truck I put in a TCI unit from Summit Racing - it cost $350. Not bad, and a big improvement over stock. Once I get this DTT unit in tomorrow I'll post back, and I bet I post back that it feels like a manual transmission.



It's all about heat. The more the converter 'stalls' the more heat it'll make, and the sooner the transmission seals will fry, and the sooner the transmission will fail. I spent the $750 on the DTT unit, and I'm 100% sure the transmission will not have a heat issue for as long as I drive the rig.



Now, when I build my Megacab rig, it will have a full-boogie DTT-built 47RH transmission with lock up converter - that'll be the only way to handle the 400 hp and 1000 tq the engine will be making at that point... but that's another story .



Hope that helps. Any other questions, ask away.



- M2

 

[Greenleaf]

That pretty much sums it up. Thanx Sam!

 

[flathead6]

Wonderful.

Great information. Thanks.

 

[dpuckett]

Ok, so let me get this straight- the stock converter is only 60% (in)efficient? GOOD GRIEF!!!! No wonder Mom's transmission isnt any better than before the rebuild (save shuddering at 20mph). That would also explain why she gets better MPGs at 73 than at 65.



What is a good stall speed to complement a near stock configuration? Say, 200/500 at about same rpm as stock 160/400.



Daniel

 

[DBF]

While you have the engine & trans separated, that's an ideal time to replace the as-built flexible drive plate (flexplate). It's the thing that bolts to the crankshaft output and to the torque converter.



When it breaks, you stop and get towed to somewhere to replace it.



The stock one was replaced in the 94-95 series with one of the same dimensions but greater weight using a stronger alloy. The Cummins part number is 3946161.



I speak from recent experience. Four nites in a motel in a small town waiting to get the truck back.



#ad




Regards, DBF

 

[flathead6]

Mad Max mentioned a MHT pan. How much of a difference does that make in cooling? 5*? 10*? And what about the B&M deep pan, can it be drilled to accept a 3/8" temp sensor? The MHT is $100 more and the sensor port seems to be the only major difference?



I'm with puckett, whats the stall most guys are using for a "slightly enhanced" engine?

Thanks,

 

[zstroken]

PML makes a good pan too. I run the magtec DD. Give Dave Goerend a call and ask him about the stall. I would think that his standard convertor would be perfect. You guys don't have a lockup on those do you?

 

[dpuckett]

No lockup on ours, unless you add one.



Mom actually called Goerends and talked to Dave and he said she didnt really needn an aftermarket one- stock would be just fine for her use. Could be possible the hillbilly who rebuilt it didnt get the line pressures high enough, I guess.



-DP

 

[flathead6]

PML makes a good pan too. I run the magtec DD. Give Dave Goerend a call and ask him about the stall. I would think that his standard convertor would be perfect. You guys don't have a lockup on those do you?

PML? Who is that and what type of pan do they have? No lockups here yet.

 

[Grey Wolf]

PML? Who is that and what type of pan do they have? No lockups here yet.

http://www.yourcovers.com/

 

[therabbittree]

Hey guys I have a extra 518 from a 92- 93 truck and my Truck has the 727 in it . I am debating throwing in the 518 for the overdrive. Do you think i need to lenghthen or shorten the drive shafts?. if so I may not do it now. . I think its only 1 1/2 " longer so the driveshafts should make up for it in the slip joints. I have a regular cab w350 singel wheel with the single driveshaft. . ie no center support bearing.

Thanks

Deo

 

[pepecat]

my 727 was a couple inches shorter than the getrag, that's all I know