HEAVY Towers with Auto Please Reply

[Ross]

How many of you 3rd Genners are towing heavy with your auto? By Heavy I mean in excess of 18,000 pounds. I am about to buy a new rig, and would like an auto, but have never had one due to the reliability concerns. I have a heavy trailer that will be towed about 90% of the truck's operating life. My gut tells me to get the 6-speed, but I'm curious about the auto.

 

[pwr2tow]

With that weight If it's mostly highway miles go for it, if alot of city driving you'd maybe be better off with the manual.

 

[TCDiesel]

I Tow 14k to 22k Regularly, I would not recommend using stock trans for any type of off road or commercial use,about $3500 upgrade and its Ironclad,stock trans will perform well, the question is for how long,If use for commercial OTR stick with the 6 speed.

 

[pwr2tow]

I say OTR the Auto will last just as long, it's in town driving is were you will tear up an auto transmission.

 

[BHolm]

For the first 95k miles of its life my '03 dually (auto) was hooked to a trailer permenently. The trailer was 8k lbs empty and 15k loaded and used for regional hauls to construction jobsites. It had multiple drivers, went off-road daily and I have yet to have a single problem. The trans works perfectly to this day.



I think in city stop and go you stand a good chance of burning up an auto. With a good mix of city and highway I think the auto is a very good choice. If I were driving it personally I would do a valve body and convertor upgrade while leaving the engine stock. That mod should ease the strain of stop and go driving. On the highway the 48re trans is geared taller (lower rpms) and would give you a little better economy, though with 18k behind, whats economy



I think the auto is a good choice, I just wonder if at 18k lbs plus the truck, you will cross that line where reliability ends and trouble starts.

 

[Ross]

As you can see from my profile, I currently use a semi to tow my livingquarters horsetrailer. The trailer weighs 22,000 fully loaded with water, hay, fuel, tack, & horses. The N14 Cummins in the Volvo pulls it like it's not there. The problem is, I can't get my wife to even get behind the wheel. I have kids that are learning to drive, and they probably shouldn't be "learning" to pull a trailer with a semi, either. So... I am being forced to sell the big Volvo and buy a Mega Cab dually. I have owned other Dodge Cummins 3500s, but all were manual trannies. In the past, there was no other option for heavy haulers, in my opinion. Now, however, the automatic has been improved to the point that I am at least considering it. Most of my driving is highway travel, so maybe the auto will work.

 

[Diesel Power]

the stock auto is not good for towing, but i have many farmers, hotshot drivers, and animal towers, that exceed max gvr on a regular, with our NADP transmission, and have had exellent results, i run the same transmission in my race truck. i would buy the auto then put a built unit in made for what your doing with it---that would satisfie your concern.

 

[Ross]

Diesel Power:



I have had experience with aftermarket trannies; all good. I have modified a 2002 bombed with Stage IV injectors, TST powermax, and hx40 turbo. The transmission was upgraded to a 91% billet converter and valve body from DTT, all with good results. I am sure your trannies are just as good if not better (not trying to start a transmission war)...



Anyway, my objective is to refrain from bombing and avoid transmission expenses if possible. If and when the stock auto takes a crap, then I would consider upgrading to an aftermarket unit, but I would prefer not to spend the money at first.



So, my question for everyone is, how will the stock unit perform, and how long will it last.



I am also considering waiting for the Aisin to come out in January, but there's NO information about it...

 

[Diesel Power]

Diesel Power:



I have had experience with aftermarket trannies; all good. I had a 2002 bombed with Stage IV injectors, TST powermax, and hx40 turbo. The transmission was upgraded to a 91% billet converter and valve body from DTT, all with good results. I am sure your trannies are just as good if not better (not trying to start a transmission war)...



Anyway, my objective is to refrain from bombing and avoid transmission expenses if possible. If and when the stock auto takes a crap, then I would consider upgrading to an aftermarket unit, but I would prefer not to spend the money at first.



So, my question for everyone is, how will the stock unit perform, and how long will it last.



I am also considering waiting for the Aisin to come out in January, but there's NO information about it...

if your towing with the stock transmission under stock power. th only thing that will help you, is a built valve body---that will ensure the longest life out of your stock auto with out getting costly and you should also see some mpg improvement. let me know if i can help you. Oo.

 

[TCDiesel]

I say OTR the Auto will last just as long, it's in town driving is were you will tear up an auto transmission.

I agree,My thought was NO rowing. Ross if the wife is going to Get behind the Wheel, Build the Auto with a PRXB EB. . Also I would upgrade to Slotted and Drill Rotors, its $300. 00 when spent,The stock Pads are Fine. . The reason I mention this is I get the impression he wants the safest and most reliable vehicle as possible,with a set of Energy Bump Stops. This way no need to install any type of air ride that installs inner axle since he will have a pin. I find that the systems that mount inside are not effective and only make the truck ride rougher.

 

[cerberusiam]

How many of you 3rd Genners are towing heavy with your auto? By Heavy I mean in excess of 18,000 pounds. I am about to buy a new rig, and would like an auto, but have never had one due to the reliability concerns. I have a heavy trailer that will be towed about 90% of the truck's operating life. My gut tells me to get the 6-speed, but I'm curious about the auto.

If you get the 4. 10's and don't use a larger tire and don't add extra power, you may be Ok, but, I don't think you will llike the way the trans acts. Without some upgrades and tweaking on the controls at 21k gross the auto is border line for feel and use. Too much shifting and too sloppy feeling. An auto is extremely good for easy use but without upgrading it it is not good for heavy towing.



However, if you are waitingf or an 07 with either the 68RE or AISIN that may be a different story depending on how willing you are to be a tester for new technology. If they live up to expectations they should both be an excellent choice, far better than the 48RE for heavy loads.



Goodluck with your choice.

 

[SShearin]

Ross, If you get a auto, I would have 4wd. Reason I say this the dodge auto is just too hard to get going load heavy. (1st gear too high) I know you said it would be for OTR but there were times 4wd in low range was needed. Realy nice when it's time to back up. It's kind of like insurance, hate to pay for it but glad you got it when you need it.



I've been there. Now I have had both I sure like the Allison.

 

[BHolm]

Also I would upgrade to Slotted and Drill Rotors, its $300. 00 when spent,The stock Pads are Fine...

I don't think that is very good advice. First, do no ever let someone sell you brake rotors that have actually been drilled full of holes. The rotor will be full of cracks in no time, and junk shortly there after. Brake rotors with holes cast into them are another story. They still can form small cracks but generally the rotors integrity isn't compromised like drilled versions. I don't think rotors with holes in them are a good idea for any vehicle that goes off pavement. Even lots of gravel road use can cause problems. Those nice holes in the rotor can easily pick up small stones and ruin brake pads very quickly. The third problem with holy rotors is that brake rotors are a heat sink. That requires mass for heat absorbtion. Drilling stock sized rotors full of holes cuts the mass and the ability to absorb friction heat from braking. Larger holy rotors are a better idea but I don't think thats what we are talking about.



Now slotted rotors on the other hand are a good idea. The slots essentially scrape away gasses that build up between the pad and rotor. This increases braking efficiency, and will actually help your braking. I would agree that the stock pads should be fine. You can upgrade pads for better bite but you normally pay the price by having to put up with brake squeal. I would also heartily reccomend an exhaust brake. Even loaded to 23,900 gross I had no problem running several mountain passes through Colorado.

 

[Diesel Power]

If you get an auto, you could buy a NADP transmission from Diesel Power and it would help him get another sale by advertising on the forums... .



I swear I've heard...







... a million times.

if you have nothing good to say why do you even post? no one wants to allways here your negitvity. rose knows i was just stating if he needed any help that i would help, and yes some people like to know that there is help avalible, with out posting all there questions on the forums, i always welcome the questions. i think the moderators would agree, that if you have nothing about the topic to add then you should stay off... ... ... ...

 

[Ross]

I appreciate all the input.



I installed a Pac-Brake on my previous 3500 QuadCab. I would never be without one; it will be my first modification.



I also agree that 4X4 is a "must have" if getting an auto. I saw an auto 2wd have to back out of a parking area over the weekend because it couldn't untrack the load going up hill. A low range would have solved this.



Another reason I'm considering an auto this time around is that I'm not a huge fan of the new G56. If the old NV5600 was still offerred, I wouldn't even consider an auto, but I'm hearing of some reliability issues.



That said, even though I tow large heavy loads, I've always had good luck with all my vehicles. I must be pretty easy on them. Conversely, I know some guys that can tear up an anvil with a rubber hammer... .

 

[Diesel Power]

I appreciate all the input.



I installed a Pac-Brake on my previous 3500 QuadCab. I would never be without one; it will be my first modification.



I also agree that 4X4 is a "must have" if getting an auto. I saw an auto 2wd have to back out of a parking area over the weekend because it couldn't untrack the load going up hill. A low range would have solved this.



Another reason I'm considering an auto this time around is that I'm not a huge fan of the new G56. If the old NV5600 was still offerred, I wouldn't even consider an auto, but I'm hearing of some reliability issues.



That said, even though I tow large heavy loads, I've always had good luck with all my vehicles. I must be pretty easy on them. Conversely, I know some guys that can tear up an anvil with a rubber hammer... .

thats very true, it all depends on how well you take care of them and how easy you are with them. but then there are some that break no matter what---i seem to find them all :-laf

 

[Parks]

Let's keep the personal comments to yourselves. I don't see anyone trying to sell anything on this thread.

Thanks

Parks

 

[pwr2tow]

I just sold my 05 NV5600 because I found out that 6th on the NV and OD on the auto were about the same. The pulling power is about the same in high gear on either trans. If I have to shift down with the NV I would have to shift down with the auto. RPM's are RPM's they consume the same fuel mileage and the auto is nicer to drive.



I remember reading about if someone could find a NV5600 they would take that. Well the dealership still has mine (the one in my signature), it has 15,000 miles on it. The axle fluid, transfer case fluid, and transmission fluid were changed at 5,000 and 10,000 miles. The truck had no nicks or scratches, it looked and drove as good as the day i took it off the lot.

 

[BMuffett]

Ross-



I tow a mini excavator on my tilt deck which puts me right @ 20k. Sometimes it is hard to get the load moving if I am on any uphill at all. I have not had a problem with my transmission yet, but I have worried about it for the last 40k miles. I make sure I have the torque convertor locked up as much as possible. Sometimes I think about getting the 6-speed, but I love the truck I have. When it is time to go get another ram, it will be a 6-speed. Good luck.

 

[zstroken]

should also see some mpg improvement.

I am lost here on this one. A convertor will give you better coupling which would help MPG, but if the clutches slip bad enough with a stock VB that your loosing MPG, then your transmission would be toast very soon. I don't think we want to mislead someone on a better mileage claim on just a VB.