2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Height Sensing Proportioning Valve TSB 05-04-98

[klaybus]

Hey guys! I've hated the brakes on my truck since I got it... I recently installed Sam Petersons' "Carbon Metallic" pads on the front & that was an improvement but the rears still kinda sucked!

I've read about the TSB in regards to the "Height Proportioning Valve Removal" but I was a little reluctant. After just about T-Boning a car that ran a light yesterday & my inability to slow down faster... . I thought what the heck, I'de give it a try. First impression is WOW! I've got brakes... . Front & rear!

I'm a little concerned about wet roads commuting to Seattle daily on I-5 during the AM\PM commute but last December I couldn't stop fast enough & ended up rear-ending a Ford Ranger & shoving him into a Subaru. My fault of course but with better braking power I might have been able to avoid it.

I guess my question is... ... Of those of you that have done the TSB & replaced the valve with the line, HOW'S IT WORKING OUT FOR YOU? Any other suggestions?



Thanks,

Clay

 

[Regcabguy]

I performed the TSB years ago and felt that the rear brakes were finally working. This was the single most effective improvement to my braking system. I have gotton the rears to lock up momentarily offroad even with the camper on but it stopped in a straight line. No problem on the freeway either even unladen. Panic stops continued to be a problem hence the Pacbrake and smart controller. EGR's brake lines firmed up the pedal a bit too. We need all the help we can get on these 99's. As far as your climate goes you'll have to wait and see.

 

[DCMille290]

Hi Klaybus,

How about a little insight into what you did exactly. My 98. 5 is the same setup as your 99 is.

If you could tell me what you did, I am willing to try anything at this point to improve the brakes.



Thanks,

DC Miller

 

[klaybus]

Height Sensing Proportioning Valve Removal

Hi Klaybus,

How about a little insight into what you did exactly. My 98. 5 is the same setup as your 99 is.

If you could tell me what you did, I am willing to try anything at this point to improve the brakes.



Thanks,

DC Miller

DC,

First, follow this link to the TSB & READ it!

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/05-04-98.htm



What I did as a try was remove the linkage off the differential side, it pops of a ball type joint. Then I used some zip ties to hold the armature UP, towards the underside of the bed. I raised it enough to bring the arm basically horizontal with the frame to simulate a loaded condition. At this point I drove my truck & the braking power was awesome. However, you MUST USE CAUTION, as your brakes are nothing like they were before. I wanted to simulate how they would work with the valve removed & replaced with a new brake line as the TSB suggests.

I have not driven my truck on the wet roads of Seattle yet & I plan to do that before I make this a permanent fix. If I don't like it after that I will probably modify the armature to lenghten the rod 1"-2" as others have done.

I cannot stress enough, USE CAUTION while doing this! DC has criteria to meet in the TSB for this action to be done. I believe most of us diesel owners meet the 75% of GVW just having the Cummins & I have altered my rear suspension.

AGAIN, USE CAUTION! Read the TSB & then decide if you meet the criteria.



Good Luck!

Clay

 

[C. Harlan]

can someone take a pic of what it looks like?? I have been trying to locate it for quite a while, but not sure where it is. thanks!



-Chris-

 

[pwerwagn]

I just cut the rod between the valve and axle, cut out 4" (I think) and threaded one end and installed a turnbuckle. I can tighten up the turnbuckle (shorten) and the brakes will go to stock (no need to, though). I dont lengthen it all the way empty, or the back brakes lock up easily. But with the camper on, I lengthen it all the way. It works great.

My digi camera is still MIA, but as soon as I find it, Iwill post pics.

--Jeff