Here I am

Hello all. New 1st gen owner here w/ Q's.

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

First Front Axle Maintenance: 2012 2500 CC 4WD Short Bed

Manual or Automatic Transmission Opinion

I've owned my 1990 non I/C W350 for a short while now and have been lurking here from almost the get go and reading my brains out. I'm the third owner of "the old man" and couldn't be happier. I just wanted to introduce myself I suppose and wished I could post some pics but that will come at a later date. A few questions but let me back up first:



The original owner hailed from WA state and had a 5th wheel hitch and standard trailer hitch (5th wheel hitch removed before selling it to a used dodge truck lot). Standard hitch still there with hookups, trailer brake etc. He also installed a Pac Brake exhaust brake (which works beautifully) and a set of front/rear air bags. What gave me pause before purchasing from 2nd owner was the lack of gauges. It appears there never were any. I could be wrong. Anyway I need to get gauges into the old man. I've read large sections of the TDR Buyers Guide including of course the Boost Treadmill section. It makes sense but then is confusing as hell at the same time. I've spent hours here on this site. The truck is just about bone stock except for 40hp injectors the 2nd owner put in. No pump mods that I'm aware of. I don't see myself hauling cows, cars, hay bales, horses (well MAYBE one horse), or any heavy as hell piece of machinery. I do see myself, possibly, throwing a cab over camper on top, or hauling a smallish trailer of firewood for friends. I feel the 40psi would fit my needs.



But what if I make slight mods to the pump? (Even though the thought makes me very nervous). Do mods increase boost pressure slightly? Some here suggest the 60 psi so they can "grow" into the gauge. The 366 spring is an appealing mod but does that necessitate a tweek in fueling? The injection pump just seems like a confusing piece of equipment. I'd rather not be pegging a 40psi gauge after some mild pump tweeks.



For the Pyro I was feeling the 1500* would be sufficent. I do have two locations in the exhaust downpipe that are already tapped with I believe a 1/4" and 1/8"NPT, but I've learned to tap into the exhaust manifold for accuracy which is what I'll do (nervousness again).



I appreciate any responses and am grateful for this awesome community of like-minded enthusiasts.
 
The gov spring will just control the rpm in which the pump limits the rpm of the motor. Just because you upgrade the gov spring does not mean you have to increase fuel. As far as the pump goes, dont let it intimidate you. You have to open it up to change the gov spring but not completely. I changed mine with the pump still on the motor. Increasing the fuel thru pump mods will not cause you to run higher boost pressure. changing the configuration of the wastegate or turbo will increase boost. Your turbo probably does not have a wastegate on it. The exhaust housing that is on the turbo is what limits the boost on your truck. The pump that is on your motor is actually easy to tinker with. Beside the fact that its free. Make sure you do you research on how to do the mods.



This is a good article to read.

mods. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm



Research what causes "Run Away". And if the truck has not had the "Killer dowl pin" taken care of you might want to tackle that ASAP. Keep us posted.
 
Last edited:
I appreciate your response EWalshak. I've had my gauges for a spell and I'm almost ready to install them. I think I bought "too much gauge" but only time will tell. I got a 60psi boost and a 1600* pyro. What limits any upgrades is of course $. Maybe I'll win the lottery. Thanks for your explanations. Most of what I read is how owners have turned fuel screws, smoke screws, installed fancy fuel pins, swapped out their turbos etc. It feels like I'm missing out on something. The past week has been reading up on the KDP. I was aware of the issue before I bought my truck and the 2nd owner wasn't aware that it had been done. I'm learning how the cam bolts(?) can be just as much an issue as the pin so I'll be getting into the thick of things next week. It'll probably take me all week to accomplish it but hell I live in a small town. Cheers.
 
Welcome!

The fuel pump is not as intimidating as it seems. Just take your time, mark the throttle linkage and don't loose any parts. There's a youtube video somewhere where I guy does the spring install and it's very straight forward. I did my gov spring and fuel pin in less than an hour. Those two things completely woke the truck up and it was hands down money well spent.

The KDP issue may not be as big of a deal as the case bolts. My KDP had moved at all, yet my two of my case bolts were loose. Again that's a job that is time consuming but not a big deal. I actually enjoyed it because I got to inspect a few things while I was in there. Just take your time and it's no big deal. I stripped everything down after work on Friday and got an early Saturday; was done by lunch.

Your gauges will be fine, better to have too much than pegging a gauge all the time. There is a lot of information on these trucks but parts are definitely getting scarce. If you plan on keeping the truck a while, take advantage of anything that comes a long. If you find a deal, jump on it. Also, these trucks in stock form are almost perfect. The new gov. spring and a mild fuel pin and you'll be very satisfied. I used the M2 pin from M&H Performance and was very pleased. No smoke but great response. Take care of that Getrag, rebuilds are expensive:D
 
The turbo is too small and the fuel too limited to worry about pushin gover 40 psi, you will never see that until you turn up the fuel and add a better turbo. The small compressor and large housing will limit the boost effectively.

If all you are doing is a camper or small trailer you really don't even need the 366 spring, just back off the throttle limiter screw and turn the fuel up on the full power screw. Unless you a totally lazy pump will be bale to spin it 3000 rpms with ease. Most of your use will be under 2600 where the stock goverbor kicks in any way. Full power screw and some work on the fuel pin and then it will be time for a better clutch. ;)
 
Back
Top