Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) HELP 12v Slug

[WadePatton]

That came out of the top of the filter I just replaced. It looks like a 2-cycle/gas mix with a bit of sediment. Should I send it to the lab?



I'll check the color of the drain fuel tomorrow.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Is the owner running "snake oils", atf or dirty lube oil as a blend with no 2 Diesel?



Change the fuel filter in a few days to see if its equally dirty, if so. .



I would stick the tank, if its dirty; drop/flush. Then drop the cover on the pre-filter (enclosed bowl near lift pump below the fuel filter).



Might dump some "bio" treatment in the fuel tank if draining and flushing are not an option. Make sure you carry tools and a spare filter as other debris may clog the filter.



Imagine if you were running a rotary pump thats lubed by fuel!

The p-pumps are pretty tolerant of such abuse to a point.



Good luck.

Andy

 

[WadePatton]

Okay, now we get dirty.

_update time_



I'm putting gauges in the 12v Slug next week or so. Nothing else has changed except that I ain't a driving it.



HO YEAH, the return line was leaking and led to a nearly-dammit-won't-start condition. Dealer pegged it and fixed it right away. Lebanon, TN dealer/stealer is pretty good--you know for a stealer.



After guages I'll be able to do some drive/diagnostic work and play with all the goodie goodies.



Let's see now there's a torque lever and a star wheel, then the cam/torque/throttle plate, and pump timing, delivery valves, solenoids, and turn-buckles and GSK's and KDP's, the AFC's ------OH MY!



Guess I have to learn some of the 12v Cummins dialect.





* * *



Please refrain from the generic use of the word, "stealer" on the TDR website. Feel free, however, to post specific details about good - as well as bad - experiences with any dealership.



Robin

TDR Admin

 

[Dennis Garrett]

Wade, for the hard start thing, if the return line didn't fix it, check the heater grid relays on the driver's side fender well. There are two on a common bracket, one for each grid. If one's bad, it'll start good in warm weather, but will smoke & stumble when it's cool. Turn the switch on, & make sure you get cycling voltage on the grid side of both relays.

 

[WadePatton]

The return line fixed it good.



I ran mine for a month with the grid heaters disconnected--in the winter! The body shop left the power leads off. Started fine, just a bit smokey. Works better with them connected.

 

[zack_76401]

what does your truck idle at? Mine was getting hard to start but i turned the idle up to 900-950 and it starts up right away now for some reason... ..... maybe this'll help ya

 

[WadePatton]

STARTS FINE NOW

We're going to play with things after gauges. I expect that a 3k GSK will go in it and I'll play with the stock plate/AFC housing positions, star wheel, kill the cat, BHAF it. Just getting started.



Yeah, a converter might have to be popped in as well.



Just hang tight, nothing is going on with it just yet.

 

[wcjp]

If the hard start comes back check the lift pump soft line. Mine had serious issues.

 

[Snow man]

Wade,have you checked for full throttle at the pump yet?. Have a friend hold the throttle pedal to the floor while you check it from under the hood. I bet theres at least 1/8" of rack travel left. You can take a few small zip ties and tie them between the cable and throttle pedal to take up the slack. On my 96 it was the same way when i bought it,it wouldnt go above 2200,after I put a few tie wraps in there,,it would pull to 2500-and rev to 3000 no load in N. Top speed went from 82mph-to 98 mph .

 

[WadePatton]

Help Lawrence--NEW MEMBER

Originally posted by Snow man

Wade,have you checked for full throttle at the pump yet?. after I put a few tie wraps in there,,it would pull to 2500-and rev to 3000 no load in N. Top speed went from 82mph-to 98 mph .

That sounds exactly like what it needs. Don't have it in hand yet.



OKAY now I'm trying to help the newest Cannon Co, TN member (TDR population 3). He has a 97 with very mild pump work. Truck is hard to start. Runs fine after start. Can the return lines fail without leaking? Dad's leaked all over. I'm going to look it over right now.

 

[illflem]

Re: Help Lawrence--NEW MEMBER

Originally posted by WadePatton

Can the return lines fail without leaking?

Seems like they suck air before they leak fuel more than the other way around. You'll see why when you replace one, often they look like a soaker hose.

 

[WadePatton]

We finally found the rubber and braided parts of the lines. Replace rubber first? only?



I'm gone fishing be back in a day or three.

 

[WadePatton]

As I've been all tied up with my spindle-retrofit on my truck, I haven't messed with Dad's yet.



But FINALLY there was a second person standing around and I said "HEY, go stand on the footfeed".



She did and I was able to move the linkage another 1/2 inch or so. So my dumbarse went to cranking on the adjustment in the linkage--guess what-1000rpm idle! Then I remembered something about zip ties, went to the pedal end and put 2 zippies on there. It's a world better, but I didn't have time to run my test hill. It'll go to 2500 now.



Gauges are coming. Stay tuned.



And Lawrence took his truck to a truck shop, they replaced an intermittent solenoid and retimed the pump. He's happy and going to put gauges in next.

 

[WadePatton]

STACKS and PLATES and TRANNIES oh my!

update time.



The transformation from Slug to SMOKER is about to begin. First thing is an almost new Sun Coast transmission fresh out of a 500hp pulling truck.



Then we'll do the gauges, pump timing, plate, and all that funny 12v stuff.

 

[C. Harlan]

See if you can find a 215 pump!! that will give you some POWER!!! just thought I would add that...



Oh, and Wade... . Come over to my thread and post... It's been a while! Dont be a stranger anymore!! we miss ya!!



-Chris-

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by charlan

See if you can find a 215 pump!! that will give you some POWER!!! just thought I would add that...



Oh, and Wade... . Come over to my thread and post... It's been a while! Dont be a stranger anymore!! we miss ya!!



-Chris-

Hey Chris he don't need a 215pump, we've got some TN members (i. e. Piston Slappers dad) who are making real good friends with a turbo/pump shop here in TN (read: spending large amounts of MO-LAH!):-laf

 

[WadePatton]

Yep, Chris, from what I've heard has been going on at Jackson Diesel, I can get way more fuel out of the 160 pump than I care to burn. I think Red said that his was flowing 500cc's--juicy!



I'll be back over there, just had to let me cool off.

 

[WadePatton]

Another thingy

The throttle travel is not smooth. About 1/2 way there is a stiff spot. Is this normal?

 

[WadePatton]

I checked another 12v. The hard spot isn't nearly as hard on his. I need to adjust the linkage. The kid a the DC store really screwed up the cable install.



ANYHOO. After a sender fix, a Pro-Loc, a throttle cable job, a valve adustment, a cat lost, a KDP killed, a number 4 plate, and a timing bump. She's getting a little PEPPIER!!!



Still have a box of springs to put in. and injectors, housing, stacks, the usual.

 

[Hammer]

Hmmmm...

I wonder why no on has addressed the pre-filter assembly after seeing that tupperware container of fuel??. I also would be willing to bet if the lift pump was looked over good(looking around the primer pump boot for wetness)it will be found to be leaking some. Also having done any mods before having a baseline service done makes your quest even harder. The first things that should have been checked were all filters,lines,oil change and a fresh valve adjustment,then on to additions afterward... ... ... Andy