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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Help! Broke fuel tank return line connector

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am trying to repair my sending unit. I managed to break the connector for the Return line. How are these quick connects supposed to work anyway? I finally ended up pulling on it and accidentally broke the plastic connector to the tank module. . I would rather not pay for an entire fuel tank module. is there better connector available? Can I use clamps instead of those stupid disconnects?
 
To get the quick connects off, you have to pull forward on the two little green tabs (mine were green) until they snapped out, and then while making sure they don't lock back again pull the fuel line off. It should come off real easy if you have the tabs pulled out all the way. I suppose you could use clamps, but like you found out, the top of these modules aren't that strong, and you would probably end up breaking it again. There are other types of quick connects you can use, and there are some that are much easier to use the the OEM ones.
 
You are going to be hard put getting a piece of hose back on that stump.



If I find the bits and pieces of that fitting in my garage, I will post pictures and instructions on how to remove them.



For a quickie, you have to squeeze the two ends/tabs of the light colored plastic lock together (read - against the tube) then push the hose a little farther on the tube, then pull it off, while still squeezing the tabs.
 
This is the return line connector with the stump inside. Are you saying that I pull out on the two wings? Everything I tried did not work. I'm worried that these will leak when I reconnect them to a new tank module.
 
Nice picture.



You need to squeeze the two wings towards each other, then slightly push the stump farther in, then pull it (the stump AND the wing assembly) out of the brass housing. It does take some work to get it out. The one that you are holding looks to be broke beyond repair. The other one looks like you got it off OK, or did you kill the snap fit connection in the process?
 
I had no desire to pay 300 to dodge to fix my error. They do not sell this portion of the module separately. Junkyards wanted 85-120 for the part. Since I have put $400 into frame straightening this month. I was inspired to try to hack the module back together.





I carefully extracted the broken fitting from the return line. Then I skewered the fitting onto the module with a drill bit to stabilize it for surgery. Then I used my dremel tool to shave down the cracked area to make room for some JB weld. I added several layers of JB weld and let each solidify between coats until the was enough built up to grind the repair to the proper shape to hold the quick connector.



The JB weld makes the quick connector difficult to remove. If I have to remove the tank again, I am going to have the assembly made by a machinist out of METAL. Hope it does not leak!
 
The JB weld fix that I did was the wrong approach-- it broke very easily. I should have drilled out the INSIDE of the fitting and JB welded a sleeve inside of the fitting to stabilize it. JB weld does not stick to Nylon very well.



I ended up using a few pieces of plumbing hardware to come up with this arrangement. Now I'm back on the road and IMHO this is a more durable arrangement.
 
Please give a description of the parts you used and their sizes. I can make out the black iron cap and that it has been threaded. What size is the cap? How did you attach it? Thanks.
 
It's built out of stuff that I had laying around. 1/8 npt 90 degree elbows with 1/4 inch copper tubing soldered into the ends. The copper tubing is attached to the original tubes inside of the fuel module.



The cap is a 1" cap threded on to a 1" pipe nipple. So far, it's held up.



IMHO the whole fuel module is very Rube Goldberg...
 
Excellent rapair. This one is going in the files. The last time I had my sending unit out, I had fun with the fittings too, I doubt they will survive it again.
 
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