HELP! Broke off bleeder valve- what do I do? Plus...

[Scooby]

I am in the midst of putting new rotors and pads on my 06 Megacab.

I bought the truck used from someone in Kentucky and I had no idea how much they must salt the roads there! :{



I've started with the rears since I thought they would be easier... ...

It took me an hour to get the #$@# wheels off! Anyway there are two main issues right now...



1) Even after using penetrant yesterday and today, I broke off the bleeder valve head on the rear driver's side. What do I do??? #@$%! Can I drill it out? Do I need to remove the caliper and take it to a shop? Arggg!



2) I can't get the dang rotors off either #@$%!. I think they have welded themselves on (via rust). Are there any tricks? I don't have a torch.



Naturally, the service manual simply says "remove" the retaining clips and remove rotor... . ha, ha, ha... . I told my wife I'd have the rears done this afternoon. I think she knows me better by now.....



Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Scooby]

Here's a quick update - dealership says no one has bleeder valves any closer than 2 hours away. Earliest I can get them is Friday.....



Does anyone know the size of the bleeders so I might get lucky at an autoparts store?



Thanks!

 

[AKAMAC]

Can't help with the bleeder but if you give the old rotor a hard hammer hit on the sharp edge just above the lugs it should pop free. If the first "hard" blow doesn't work, use a sharp center punch and hit the rotor between lugs 180º apart. Then try wacking the sharp edge again. Mike

 

[Bob V]

If the bleeder is not open just leave it. If you are trying to flush out the system just crack open the line (use a flare nut wrench). If you are trying to get the air out you may have to remove the caliper and turn it so the line is at the high point of the caliper. Make sure you have something in the caliper between the pads so the piston doesn't come out.

 

[rbattelle]

If the bleeder is not open just leave it.

Bob's right - as you may have read in the other thread (here), my truck has been operating fine for a few years with the right-rear bleeder snapped off.

Thanks again for that fine bit of engineering, Dodge!

Ryan

 

[Scooby]

Thanks for the replies - although "just leave it" was not what I was expecting! Just the thought of that thing stuck in there will drive me nuts!... I don't think I can leave it alone... ...



I want to open the line so that when I c-clamp the pistons back open, the dirty fluid won't back up into the system. I don't have a flare nut wrench - but what a great excuse to buy some Sears is too far away for me - does Kobalt or Husky make em? I suppose an autoparts store may have this as well - anyone know size off-hand?



Also, here's a tip someone from an Autozone told me..... make sure the emergency brake is off before you try to pull the rotor I'm pretty sure mine is "on" - so with any luck that'll be the case - I'll check in the morning.

 

[HOBrian]

I just plan on replacing the calipers when it is time to do the brakes. Oh and to put some type of anti seize on the bleeders of the new calipers!

 

[Bob V]

If you dont want the fluid to back up in the system loosten the line and let it leak out.

 

[Scooby]

Thanks for the input guys. I ordered new bleeder valves (5) of them and also just loosened the banjo bolt to the caliper to let some of the dirty fluid out as I compressed the pistons. I do plan on getting that broken one out, though.



UPDATE: I finally managed to break the rotors free!Oo.



While the rear axle is supported by two 3ton jackstands, I put my jack and a block of wood under the rotor so that it was taking some of the truck's weight... then I used an air hammer with a dull tip and applied approx. 20 1-2 seconds bursts of hammering on the rotor hub area..... that, combined with the PB spray ,broke them loose. So the first one took about 2 days to get off... and the second about 10 minutes! That's a learning curve for ya.

 

[Dave04]

Where did you get your bleeder valves from? Dodge

 

[BDuffy]

I used a bolt placed in the hole left by the caliper mount and used it to push the brake disk off. You can back off and turn the disk to push at different points.

 

[Scooby]

Where did you get your bleeder valves from? Dodge

Dave,

Yes I ordered them from two different dealers. One had 1 unit in stock and they were a few hours away -so I called them directly and bought it over the phone and they UPS'd it to me. Then I ordered 4 from my local dealer (about 5 minutes away) and they got it from the distribution center in Atlanta. The four from Atlanta arrived in two days and cost about $10 total. The one from the other dealer via UPS arrived after 6 days and cost me about $12.



I am replacing all of them at once and did manage to get both fronts off without snapping the heads off! Patience, grasshopper.

 

[Scooby]

I used a bolt placed in the hole left by the caliper mount and used it to push the brake disk off. You can back off and turn the disk to push at different points.

BDuffy,

This sounds good on paper, but wouldn't have worked in my instance... . those suckers were practically one with the hub!

 

[Dave04]

Well just got the rear brakes changed and had to do the rotors too due to deep pits. Snaped both bleeders off. Will order some tommorrow. How do I get the broken remains out?

 

[rbattelle]

How do I get the broken remains out?

I haven't done mine yet, but plan to drill out the old one. I couldn't get extractors or left handed bits to work - the old one was really welded in there.



Ryan

 

[Dave04]

Well let me know. I might just leave mine and wait untill I do front brakes and flush all fluid out and replace all bleeders.

 

[Scooby]

Dave,

There was a procedure that someone wrote on removing bleeders without snapping them off... . which got me through the fronts without breaking them. It involves patience and tapping with a hammer and vibrating with an air chisel (dull tip), lots of Blaster, a native american rain dance, a few beers... ... repeat..... over and over again.

I posted another thread about finally getting my broken one out after trying every trick in the book. I ended up removing the caliper and taking it to a race shop where we drilled most of it out and used heat and several extractor types to get it to budge. It was a PITA. Make sure you get new brass washers for the banjo bolts if/when you do decide to remove the caliper.