2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission help, broken lugs

[KCanepari]

2000 2500. Plowing this morning and six lugs on the front wheel sheared right off? OK lots of questions. Anyone hear of this? Did the lug nuts loosen up? One thing I have to mention is my winter tires are on steal rims that I'm not sure are 100 match for the truck, I think they are, but wouldn't bet my life on it. next thing I went to the local auto parts store and the studs they gave me where the wrong ones. now the one's we matched up the book said they where for an '03, but when I went to the dealer the ones he gave me where right and where for a '00. the dealer one's are TEN BUCKS apiece, the auto parts store $3. So if anyone has any ideas so this won't happen again, also I'm looking for 4 cheap steal rims that are meant for the truck and I can powder coat them black.

 

[AKAMAC]

The stock wheels are hub-centric and allow the weight to be applied evenly to the hub. The steel wheels you have probably are not and rely on the lugs only. If the lug nuts weren't properly torqued they will apply force unevenly and result in, well I guess you know.

You should be able to use the wheels you have, just use a torque wrench when you snug them up.

 

[KCanepari]

Thanks for the tip. Well the rim got bent from hanging on by the two remaining lugs, so I need at least one new rim.

 

[Glen Pratt]

Definitely get a Torque Wrench and torque those lug nuts to 140 ft/lbs. An easy way to pop the studs out and install the new ones is with an air chisel with a blunt end tipped bit. Been there done that.

 

[BMote]

Had similar problem on my old 91CTD. Lost 2 wheels while plowing on different occasions. Turned out, the steel wheels I had were off Chev product and had 5/8 dia stud holes, instead of our correct 1/2 " Lug nuts were torqued down to 120, but the nut was not putting pressure on the rim properly. Sheared off two studs, the rest loosened up and wheel came off.

Be sure and check for proper size stud holes on any rim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[JJanetka]

I have a several studs that act like they have been streched and was thinking about replacing them. Dealer price was $23 a piece for the 8800 gvw axle. rock auto shows a price of $1. 89. The cheap price really makes me nervous. what do you think? should shy away from them? My aftermarket rims are stud supported not hubcentric like the stock steels were.

 

[jelag]

If your steel wheels have a taper... . where the nut intersects the wheel... . you need nuts with the taper on them... . if you don't have this kind of contact I'm guessing that the wheel is moving and doing the damage to the studs and making the holes in the wheels oval..... something you'll need to address.....

Hope this helps.

 

[JJanetka]

I should have explained it alittle better. When running the nuts in(which are tapered) they bind a bit,not alot. In past experience, I've had work(utility) trucks that my old employer had the local truck garage service. These guys would run the nuts in with a 1" impact and strech the studs. One time when I tried to rotate the tires after a bang up alignment job they performed, I snapped all but 2 studs on one wheel trying to remove them. I figure if the studs are streched they will be weaker hence my decision to change them, but I want to make sure they are of sufficient strength hence my concern with such a wide range in price difference. I just can't get my mind around $23 per stud. Everytime I go to the dealer we have a chuckle about how outrageous some of the prices are , but this one takes the cake.

 

[Rattlin_Ram]

Does the hub have to completely come off to replace the studs? I had wally world rotate my tires and they didn't tighten up a couple lugs... . Well they broke. Opposite of each other luckily... .

 

[Dave M]

My wife was driving the truck this weekend and noticed the front end wobble. She checked the front wheels and the right wheel had 3 studs missing/broke off. Now one of the 3 studs had already broken off a few months ago... don't know why.



Four of the remaining lug nuts were loose. The only tight nut was the only one holding the wheel on. One of the loose nuts was at the very end of the stud. The tire shop ordered (from the dealer) the 3 nuts (at $13 apiece and 3 studs ($10 apiece).



Someone here mentioned that the wheel rim holes should be 1/2". The wheel hole where the studs are missing measured 0. 680" or 5/8". Is this correct for a dually rim?



How do you replace these studs? I assume they are pressed on. Does the hub need to come off? I see a big castle type nut in the center of the hub with a cotter pin. Does that come off and the nuts holding the hub on?



Does the new studs need to be pressed on? I've never had the hubs/rotors off on this truck so not sure how to do this.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[JJanetka]

I am going to have to go back to the dealer and ask him to look up the stud price again. That's two of you who got studs for around $10 and they wanted $23? That large nut holds the axle into the hub Dave. Once that is removed the 4 bolts behind the steering yoke hold the unit bearing and hub into the yoke. The unit bearing/hub and rotor come out together although usually not without alot of effort, unless someone was nice enough to put some neverseeze on them. If yours is like mine the studs hold the rotor to the hub. You can tap them out with a brass hammer, drive them out with an air hammer or press them out.

 

[Dave M]

I am going to have to go back to the dealer and ask him to look up the stud price again. That's two of you who got studs for around $10 and they wanted $23? That large nut holds the axle into the hub Dave. Once that is removed the 4 bolts behind the steering yoke hold the unit bearing and hub into the yoke. The unit bearing/hub and rotor come out together although usually not without alot of effort, unless someone was nice enough to put some neverseeze on them. If yours is like mine the studs hold the rotor to the hub. You can tap them out with a brass hammer, drive them out with an air hammer or press them out.

I see the 4 bolts in the rear of the hub that hold the hub/rotor assembly to the steering yoke. But on mine the wheel is attached to the outboard end of the hub with the 8 studs of which 3 of mine are broken off. Behind the wheel studs (looking thru the wheel holes) there are 8 more nuts on studs that appear to bolt the hub to the rotor on the front side. I see them when looking thru the wheel holes into the hub/rotor.



Do them internal 8 nuts hold the hub to the rotor on the front side of the rotor? If they do, it seems I would not have to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the hub/rotor to the steering yoke. If I took the wheel off couldn't I just unbolt the 8 nuts that (apparently) hold the hub to the rotor and them repair the broken studs (leaving the rotor/hub attached to the yoke)? Or am I missing something?

Does the whole hub/rotor assembly have to come off?



Also, do these studs have to be pressed on with a shop press or can I do it with hand tools?



Thanks,

Dave

 

[dclassens]

Dave-JJanetka is explaining the "how to" procedure on the front of his 2500 truck. The large nut is on the axle shaft. JJanetka does not have any hub parts bolted to the end of his axle like your dually. I think because you have the hub built for a dually, you just unbolt the outermost part of the hub(part with i think 8 botls) and go from there. Good luck



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Dave-JJanetka is explaining the "how to" procedure on the front of his 2500 truck. The large nut is on the axle shaft. JJanetka does not have any hub parts bolted to the end of his axle like your dually. I think because you have the hub built for a dually, you just unbolt the outermost part of the hub(part with i think 8 botls) and go from there. Good luck



Dave

I also have the large nut with the cotter pin that appears to hold this hub assembly on the axle shaft. It looks like I don't have to remove the rotor and assembly but just unbolt the hub from the rotor in the front. I'll find out.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[jelag]

We have a fastener company here in town that has a good selection of studs and nuts... . I don't remember any of them over a couple of bucks a piece for the studs and around a buck for the nuts... . have you tried someone besides the dealer.....

 

[JJanetka]

Dclassens is right. I did not know you had a dually. The hub adapter will just unbolt from the rotor studs making it very easy.

 

[Dave M]

Dclassens is right. I did not know you had a dually. The hub adapter will just unbolt from the rotor studs making it very easy.

After looking at mine that's what i figured. . sorry i should have specified i have a dually. i didn't think they were different.



I'm not concerned about getting the hub off and the studs out. My wife already has Big O Tire (since I was out of town when it happened) getting the nuts and studs removed tomorrow. They are charging $40 plus parts to do it. I figured I'd take out the remining 5 studs and replace them myself since I don't want this happening again. I don't get why the studs started breaking anyhow.



The question is... . do the new studs have to be pressed in? How can I do that without going to a shop? I don't have a press.



The shops here are very expensive when I've had this stuff done before.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[JJanetka]

I've pressed mine out and hammered them back in, but even the factory manual shows them to be tapped out with a copper hammer. Any hammer should do if your not reusing them.