Competition HELP....drag racing the CTD....

[KingS]

lock it in 4x4 you can boost as high as you want 20 for stock turbo is great but not sure you can get that. I have stock shaft in mine and I boost 20 on the strip with current set up and its holding I was told magic number to break shaft is 13. 49 et and you better get the money ready once you hit that.

 

[RacinDuallie]

I wouldnt do that too long @ 20psi with stock shafts... ... .

 

[ETanchak]

I broke mine the night I put injectors in. Didnt even leave the garage LOL. Ever since that I will spend the extra money the first time. and for what its worth sunny coast didnt want to do anything but replace them with stock shafts. said I was making to much power{NOT DONT THINK SO}I told him he sold me a transmission with used shafts in it. They claim they check all there shaft before installation. Guess i just got a bad one,so I bought the billet shaft and a had a friend put them in. Everything is good now

 

[KingS]

no way brake at 20 psi I have ran mine to 40 a few time and no problem but truck runs better if boost on to 20 psi on launch. but on my be have the place I had rebuild the transmission didn't say they changed the shaft just the reverse servo but they could of Dusty at HTS will be getting into the transmission soon to add a shaft so I don't break it when I add the dv and injectors so I'll know if they changed them then.

 

[pwerwagn]

I was told magic number to break shaft is 13. 49 et and you better get the money ready once you hit that.

I think maybe if your shafts are in great shape!!! I know of one truck that broke shafts running low 14's, FWIW.

I think its all a matter of how much traction you got, how good your stock parts are, and how much its been abused.

Every truck and every shaft is going to be somewhat different, as is the technique the driver is using. (how soon the convertor locks up, etc).



MHO,

Jeff

 

[RacinDuallie]

My experience has found that the magic number for the input shaft brakeage is around 350hp.

 

[I SPEED]

I'd never drag race in 4 wheel drive. Talk about breaking something. It's my opinion, and we all know about those, that you're running the risk of breaking u-joints launching at a drag strip in 4 Hi. Besides that, the tech inspectors will tell you not to put it in 4 wheel. They don't like having to sweep up all the parts and call the wrecker.

I launch in 4WD everytime @20psi. The only thing I've broke was the stock output shaft. (the only part we didn't change to billet when the transmission was done).



I push it out when it's in 2nd gear.

 

[paulb]

I'd never drag race in 4 wheel drive. Talk about breaking something. It's my opinion, and we all know about those, that you're running the risk of breaking u-joints launching at a drag strip in 4 Hi. Besides that, the tech inspectors will tell you not to put it in 4 wheel. They don't like having to sweep up all the parts and call the wrecker.

I've made over 700 1/4 passes, and everyone of them was in 4 High. I usually launch with 15psi boost, and run it the whole 1/4 in 4x4. I have never had a tech inspector tell me not to put it in 4x4. Maybe that is a local track thing? I regularly race in two NHRA divisions as well as with the NHRDA.



U-Joints really are the least of my worry. As long as you don't let the tires go into hop, and the pickup is not lifted (or if it is the drive line angle is good), the u-joints seem to hold up pretty well. If you have stock shafts in the trans, you will break those with boosted 4x4 launches. My transfer case lasted over 100,000 miles before it started putting "glitter" in the fluid. At 100K miles the dana 70 in the rear started to loose pre-load on the carrier bearings. The dana 60 in the front looked like new.



The moral of the story is: If you are going to race hard, you are going to wear parts quicker. How much quicker depends on how hard you race.



The thing that amazes me is how well these things hold up, with the abuse we give them.



Paul

 

[idahogn]

big john,





one thing i havent seen is that you could deep stage your truck... ... . or maybe put a 840 kit in it ... ..... lol









nice to see a famillar face here even if its a sled guy... ..... we still have ridable snow here in idaho.

 

[JApol]

I drag occasionally just for poops and grins and the rush. With everything stock except the SP Diesel box on level 9. When I get pre-staged I use the left foot on the brake and just use the engine torque to move to the stage. Once I am staged I bring the rpms up to between 1000 and 1500, once the light goes green I release the brake and hammer the go pedal, once the transmission gets into 3rd I up the box to H. O. as it locks the transmission sooner and off I go to run 15. 12 @90 MPH. My 4x4 launches are . 1-. 2 seconds slower than 2x4 launches.



The only exception to that was I had unusually hard launch and hit the button on the programmer to early. The 60ft time was good but after that the engine sounded quiter than it should. Looked at the rpm's pegged as normal, MPH not increasing? I look in the mirror and I am doing my best impression of a funny car that hamered the go pedal to hard. Lost to a stock Accord, Oh well.

 

[Udaloy]

I launch in 4WD everytime @20psi. The only thing I've broke was the stock output shaft. (the only part we didn't change to billet when the transmission was done).



I push it out when it's in 2nd gear.

Do you think pushing the lever out of 4 HI while under load does anything? In all my experiences, it stays in 4 wheel drive until after you've let off.



Also, if you look at what JWilmer is driving (48RE, 3. 73, 285's, Bully Dog triple dog on tow/econ, muffler delete) he doesn't have a bunch of billet parts, does he?



There are exceptions to every rule, but I still stand by the common sense approach that you'll tend to break more parts than not if launching in 4 WD. Maybe it's because my truck is my only daily driver, and I can't afford to replace parts screwing around.

 

[RacinDuallie]

once the light goes green I release the brake and hammer the go pedal

If your doing it like that then you are LATE... ..... We tend to call that sleeping on the tree... ...

 

[I SPEED]

Do you think pushing the lever out of 4 HI while under load does anything? In all my experiences, it stays in 4 wheel drive until after you've let off.



Also, if you look at what JWilmer is driving (48RE, 3. 73, 285's, Bully Dog triple dog on tow/econ, muffler delete) he doesn't have a bunch of billet parts, does he?



There are exceptions to every rule, but I still stand by the common sense approach that you'll tend to break more parts than not if launching in 4 WD. Maybe it's because my truck is my only daily driver, and I can't afford to replace parts screwing around.

Yes, I do think it makes a difference pushing it out of 4WD. It takes 1/10th of my ET.

It must be doing something when I push the lever.



What parts are you breaking when you launch in 4WD? You effectively split the power 50/50 between the 2 axles, thereby reducing the chances of breaking one of them.

 

[mcoleman]

I also use 4X4 and shift out once into 2nd gear. I pick up mph and et over not shifting out so there is a difference. 2wd would be a waste of time for me. It would break them loose and never hook back up. Darren Morrison is using 4X4 and pulling sub 1. 5 60 foots on a dana 70 on his way to 10. 26 et's. I highly recommend billet shafts. I tried the cheap alternative and broke the stock output on the 2nd 10 psi launch. I can now pull high 1. 6 60 foot times with all billet pieces in place.