Help, engine stalling

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Today I came home and filled the tank. Upon restarting it, it started to stumble. I backed up 20-30 feet and put it into drive. It then started to surge. I managed to get it into the garage right as it quit. I let it sit a moment and tried to restart it. It hesitated but came back to life. I thought that this was wierd. I had a new fuel filter sitting on the shelf and figured now is the time. I changed the filter and pumped the transfer pump until the filter was full. I took it out for a run around the block. This is when my trusty throttle cable held the throttle open for me. (different story) So I stopped by the dealer and picked up a new cable. Got back home and proceeded to change the cable. On top of all this, I found out I haven't been getting WOT. I tested WOT just as the directions asked. I then had my wife hold full throttle in park(2500 RPM) I reached down and pulled the linkage and got another 500 RPM. The breakover spring (on the bellcrank linkage) won't push it all the way at the end. Apparently the pump doesn't want to open up at the last little bit of travel. I have no idea on what to do about that. After all of this I went around the block again. I stomped on the gas and all I got was 2250 tops. A few seconds later as I coasted down a few mph, the engine started to sputter and surge. Then it quit. I finnaly get it to start after a few failed attemps. I drove it home with the engine missing all the way. I cracked all the injector lines at the pump one at a time. All of them spit fuel out except number three. I couldn't get it to bleed. I shut it down to call a friend. When I restarted it, it ran fine. Around the block once more. After another round of "WOT" (yeah right 2250RPM) the engine stumbled and eventually quit. I managed to get it started and got it home. It was the number three that wouldn't bleed again. By this time I was pulling my hair out. I came back to it again after a few moments (for me to think about this) and restarted it. It ran fine. I don't get it, it has a new fuel filter. I never had this problem before. Any ideas on how I can achieve WOT? I need a beer... . maybe a few #ad


Thanks for your input. #ad


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Jason Case
'95 2500 4x4 Auto Reg Cab
BD torque converter, Pressure lock, and valvebody, #5 fuel plate, BD 4" exhaust turbo back, K&N RE-0880,transmission temp, boost and egt gauges.
Looking for more power!

BOHICA!!!!

'99 KTM 300 EXC

 

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Sixkill check everything that has to with fuel system. Just so you can rule them out.
First, return fuel valve, rubber fuel hoses, fuel shut off solenoid and any thing that belongs to it, transfer pump, pre filter below fuel heater,and if you have to filter in fuel tank.
But since no. 3 isn't bleeding and that it runs for a while than stalls it would seem(quess) one or two posibilities dirt or something is plugging no. 3 near or at injector or no. 3 valve. No. 3 valve isn't working in injector pump.
Air is a remote chance I would think because fuel should come out of the nut sooner or later(where you were bleeding) at No. 3 injector.
All your symptoms point to fuel system problem.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000

 

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I had the fuel return line replaced less than a year ago. The number three wouldn't bleed until you ran the throttle up and only then would it "spit" now and then. After you shut it down and give it a few minutes to rest, it will restart and run fine #ad
I even bleed the lines after it was running fine and everything seemed normal. How do I service the fuel prefilter? Is there another element I need to change?

[This message has been edited by sixkill (edited 12-06-2000). ]

 

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I think you're sucking air somewhere. Check all the fuel lines and clamps,an suction leak is most likely prelift pump. You could use compressed air to pressurize the system(keep pressure below 20 psi) then listen or use soapy water. A friend had a similar problem that 3 dealers couldn't figure out,his problem only happened below a half tank of fuel. A bus mech. buddy finally figured it out,there was a pin hole in the pickup tube inside the fuel tank module about half way up. Talking with a Cummins NW mech. later he said he's heard of this problem a few times. These types of problems are often the hardest to diagnose.
Good luck
I reread your post,since your problem started after a fill up it makes me wonder if you got a bad tank of fuel,you may need to check all three filters. The main,the one in the fuel heater and the tank,the later two are cleanable screens.



[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 12-06-2000). ]

 

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Sixkill, here's a link on Fuel Pre-Filter cleaning that might help on that one. http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/diesel/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm Goodluck! #ad




[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 12-06-2000). ]

 

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Thanks for the tip on the prefilter. I'll clean that immediatly. I would find it strange since it was replaced in Feb. But it is quite possible. My problem started right as I started it up, not a minute or two later. I get my fuel right from my own supply, a 600 gallon tank right beside my garage. I filled the tank, started it, it began to stumble as I put into gear(reverse), it got worse as I pulled forward and finnaly quit as I rolled into the garage. I don't think my fuel in my supply tank could've effected it that quickly #ad
I also wonder why it was always the number three that had the problem.

Anybody got any solutions for my WOT problem?

 

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sixkill,I also have my own 1000 ga tank. One thing to watch out for is in the spring when the weather finally goes above freezing,all the water that has been forming from condenstaion then turning to ice,will melt and come out in a rush. I hope that's not your problem this time of year,can't have the weather getting that wacky.

 

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The weather has not gotten above freezing since October 15. I have a Goldenrod water/fuel seperator filter on my supply tank. No sign of water in the fuel. I will watch for water in the spring. Excellent point my friend.

 

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As I read this thread, I notice a few innacuracies to the normal dirty prefilter or water in fuel problems. I think it is a little more. First thing that comes to mind is a cracked barrel in the injection pump. Piers sells replacement ones that are really good, but you need to further diagnose this with him.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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I am with DieselB59 on this one. Questioning the filter/pre-filter and/or water in the fuel would be a good place to start (doesn't cost much). But you mention not being able to bleed number 3, which leads me to belive the problem most likely lies in the injection pump. Missouri Mule also brought up a good point about maybe something got in the injection pump or injector and is causing a clog.

Keep us posted on what the problem turns out to be.

 

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Shuold I buy an injector cleaner of some sort? If so, What kind. My truck has run fine the last two days, but I have not tried to put a load on it. This problem only occured after a fast acceleration and coast down to slower speeds. I will try again tommorow to see if the problem still exists. If it is the pump, will DC replace it even though I've past my warranty (June). It was replaced last February. It should have it's own 12/12 right? I don't have the money right now to take it to a shop. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

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Originally posted by sixkill:
Shuold I buy an injector cleaner of some sort? If so, What kind. My truck has run fine the last two days, but I have not tried to put a load on it. This problem only occured after a fast acceleration and coast down to slower speeds. I will try again tommorow to see if the problem still exists. If it is the pump, will DC replace it even though I've past my warranty (June). It was replaced last February. It should have it's own 12/12 right? I don't have the money right now to take it to a shop. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

HMMMM... If you are on good terms with your dealer then there is a possibility, if not I have a feeling you will be on your own.

 

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I called DC two days ago about my throttle cable and fuel tank sending unit. I told him I bought a sending unit early this year. His response was every Mopar part has a 12/12. If I had my reciept, I could exchange it for a new one. Would this apply to my injector pump as it was replaced under warranty? I would think so. I hope it is, if it turns out to be a fualty part. It might be the reason why I do not get WOT.

 

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I visited Gene's Chrysler and talked to the diesel tech. He came out and looked at my truck. After telling him what happened he told me he thought it sounded as though I had water in the fuel system. He said it is common for water to pass right through to the injector pump and cause a plunger to stick. I put in some diesel fuel water remover (nonalcohol based) and I haven't had the problem return. He also diagnosed my WOT problem. I couldn't believe my eyes. He showed me the linkage at the back side of the pump. The ball stud on the lever was broken. It allows for a little slop. That explains where I've lost my 500 rpm. I'll take it off and have it spot welded. Maybe one of you guys have an old lever you send me? I feel pretty dumb for not catching it earlier. #ad


I want to thank you for the e-mails and posts. This really helped me out. I also owe Vern at Gene's for his time and help.

 

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Sixkill,,just so it doesn't happen again remember to open the drain on your fuel filter more often in the winter,I try to drain mine once a week in winter and about every month in the above freezing times. As to what I was saying about your storage tank's ice becoming water in the thaw-I also have a Goldenrod filter on my tank,but when the spring rush of water comes(usually when the snow starts dripping off the roof)so much water gets caught in the Goldenrod that it looks like it's just diesel ,i. e. the bowl gets entirely full of water in one fill up,keep a close watch on it. Nice to have a problem solved isn't it ?
Bill

 

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sixkill:

Glad to hear the problems have been fixed. Never heard of water causing the plunger to stick, would explain why unable to get any fuel when bleeding. I will have to remember that.

Thanks for letting all of us know your findings.

 

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sixkill,

Forgot to ask, did the tech explain why the problem only occured only after certain accerlation conditions? I would think if the plunger was stuck the problem would persist all the time.

 

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Actually sixkill, now thinking about the temps you are subjected to in your area, water can and will become a problem if it gets into the injection pump. Illflem has a point, open the drain and let it out weekly during the winter to avoid it from happening. Interesting thread! Glad to see you were able to get a very easy way out of the problem.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, Auto Wurks Diesel Intercooler, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program