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help! filter prime

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Rear end

Anyone using Baldwin PF7854 on 2000 and 2001 trucks Read!

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Changing my filter for only the sixth time- can't seem to get prime on the fuel canister. I have loosened the brass plugs on top of the "lid" to bleed air, click the starter to set off the pump. The pump runs for 20 seconds or so. I have repeated about 10 times now and I can hear the buzz from the pump - but no fuel in filter housing. I have a full tank of fuel so should be plenty of static pressure behind it. Tried completely removing bleed screws. Tried opening drain valve to verify but nothing. Help?
 
Hmmm. Could the lift pump have went south? Have any access to fuel psi gages? Gages, gages, and more gages. A must when owning these trucks.
 
Got the beast going. Did a manual fill in the canister. Also some air in system. Disconnected maifold heaters. Shot a small blast of ether into intake manifold. Cranked right up. (Don't forget to disconnect manifold heater before you try this trick. Could cost you mucho dinero - like a motor)
 
Highlander:

Did you manually fill the canister with fuel after installing the filter and before screwing the canister lid on? Or were you filling the canister using the pump? #ad


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2000 4X4 SLT QC 8' bed; 6 spd, 3. 54 ; BD exhaust brake and 4" exhaust syst; TST PM2; Airlift Super Duty rear air bags; RS 9000 shocks; pyro/boost gauges in 2 gauge a-pillar mount; back preasure gauge mounted under dash; KN air filter; Brown's Welding brush/grill guard, rear bumper & headache rack; nerf bars and aluminum roll top rear cover, Warn front receiver and Hadley air horns
 
I crack open the banjo fitting on the injector input line and just turn the key to start until the fuel starts to run out of the banjo fitting. This is only when I don't fill the filter canister with fuel. Seems to work every time.
 
Highland,

Even though it runs fine after manually filling the canister, your lift pump could be dead. The injector pump will suck fuel from the tank and will run. However, this is not a good thing. So check your fuel pressure! #ad
 
Yes, ASAP! Fry that injection pump out due to lack of lubrication (diesel fuel) and you will be posting these #ad
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Always ready to help!
2000 2500 Red Sport quad cab, 4x4, K&N, DDI's, straight piped, boost, pyro and fuel pressure gages, Hot Power Edge, mean looking set of 33. 5" tires, Snap On diamond tool box, Marine Corps window sticker, Semper Fi!

1972 340 Cuda'. Original tripple Black, 340 car w/air. Good clean car, super stock springs, Weld Prostars, shaker hood, strong 340 with a 727/4000 stahl, 4. 56... . Bombs away!
NRA Life Member. http://www.geocities.com/chadsheets
 
Highlander, I don't think feeding Ether to a Cummins is a good idea, even with the grid heater disconnected. That stuff is pretty potent. My grandfather blew a hole right through a piston on his John Deere cat starting it with Ether #ad


I would certainly say you have a sick lift pump. I changed my filter last week and put the lid on with the canister only being half full of fuel. I bumped the starter and let the lift pump run 2 cycles, then started it up. No sputter, no smoke, lit off like a normal start.

Vaughn
 
Ok guys... I need your help. I am getting ready to change my fuel filter for the first time. You guys talk about "Priming. " What exaclty is priming and how do you prime your filter? How far do you turn the key over? Do you just turn the key over to where the grill heater comes on?? Any further details would be appreciated.

Thanks

Kevin
 
Well K-Arts, everyone has there own way of doing things. Me, I like to do the least amount of work to get something done. The best way (which shop mechanics use) is to get a one gallon can and when you fill up with fuel fill the can. Go home pull the old filter out. Drain the canister and clean the Water in Fuel censor. Put the new filter in and fill the canister with fuel from the gallon can. Only fill it as high as it was when you took the cap off the canister. Works great and you can use the left over diesel in the gallon can to kill weeds. Or just put it in your fuel tank. Don't save it for next time. It will go bad.

It is so easy and some make a big deal out of it. Have fun with the beast but take care of it.

Bryan

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Bryan De Boer
I L-O-V-E MY D-O-D-G-E
White 2000 Ram 2500 Quad s/b With a Banks Power Pack
 
Thanks Bryan... I believe I understand. Guess I will find out when I change my filter. I guess the only thing that I don't understand yet is your comment "Drain the canister and clean the Water in Fuel censor. " I didn't know that there was a sensor in there. . Do I just use that lever on the ouside to drain the canister?

Last question, what mileage does everybody recommend changing the fuel filter? I know that the manual to our trucks says 15k. I just rolled 9k and I am thinking about doing it here really soon. Suggestions?

Thanks

Kevin
 
I had my fuel filter changed at 15K by Pro Fleet, a 'Big Rig' type quick lube place and they just unscrewed my cannister top, pulled out the old fuel filter and installed the new Baldwin filter and filled the cannister with diesel fuel, screwed the top back on and started the truck up and off I went. I have driven 16K since with no problems.

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Bob in Sacramento, Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie, Slightly BOMBED :) LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
OK. Previous times, I have not pre-filled the canister with fuel before loosening the brass bleeder plug and kicking in the tranfer pump. It always filled the canister. This time - no fuel, but I could hear the buzz from the pump for 20 seconds or so. I will have the dealer check the transfer pump when it goes in tomorrow (pressure check I guess?) Also, I don't like the idea of an ether start either, but I suspect the BIG CUMMINS can handle a LOT more pressure in the combustion chamber than your average gasser!!! Kind of like a little shot of steroids!!
 
Originally posted by highland:
Got the beast going. Did a manual fill in the canister. Also some air in system. Disconnected maifold heaters. Shot a small blast of ether into intake manifold. Cranked right up. (Don't forget to disconnect manifold heater before you try this trick. Could cost you mucho dinero - like a motor)

Instead of ether , next time try W-D40, this works very well and gives the luberication that is needed.
 
Evan:

Good call buddy! Dealer checked transfer fuel pump and replaced it under 100K warranty. It was bad! Just note guys the truck runs fine with the pump out but like Evan says, probably not a good thing - so if you get no fuel to your filter - check it out.
 
K-Arts

The sensor is in the bowl . . easy to see when you get it apart.

I did my first a month or so back. It was interesting to say the least. That sucker was TIGHT.

Make a trip to NAPA or order from Geno's . . I was raped by the dealership . . not even a kiss. For the oil and fuel filter nearly $70. I saw Genos had the fuel filter for less than $20. Definately worth the effort.

I don't know your year truck . . but I have a 2000. The fuel filter change was as easy as documented on the board.

You know how you visualize how the job goes before you do it? Well I didn't envision that plastic lid being so tight. But with a little care the job went smoothly. I refilled the bowl with fresh fuel, it was too easy. I bleed off fuel via the water drain valve to be sure all the air was out. Cranked right off.

Don't forget the inch pound torque wrench . . 25in pounds if I remember correctly. The measurement is clearly stamped of the top of the canister.

Good luck
Michael

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00 Driftwood 2500 ST QC ISB LB 5spd 3:54 LSD Tow & Camper Groups

my photos
 
Fellows, can you tell me where exactly one checks the pressure of the lift pump?
Thanks!

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98. 5 Quad Cab, LB, Emerald Green, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Tow, Camper, Millinium Boards, 45 Gal. Tank/Tool Box Combo, Rhino Liner, BD Exhaust Brake, BD TorqLoc, BD PressureLoc, Reese 5th W Hitch
 
You guys that are filling the cannister with fuel before installing the filter, be careful with what you use. The tech at my dlr. said cummins did not reccomend this, because its easy to contimate fuel with a dirty container you use to refill the cannister.
Larry

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Y2K 3500 QC,SLT,4X2,White, 6spd,3. 54 lsd,Banks Stinger +,Pacbrake,Pilar mt. EGT & Boost,Amsoil air filter,all amsoil lube w/BMK-15 filter system,MagTec rear cover,putco boss rbs. w/ rear ext. &flaps,20K reese,100 gal. aux. fuel,fold up T cover,5K airlift bags w/comp. ,ranger 2950 cb pushing palomar 225 amp,phantom radar det.
 
Flyboy:
The dealer did the pressure test on my truck - but I'm sure the easiest would be to test at the fuel filter canister - hook up on one of the air bleed plugs (brass). By the way, after driving with the replacement tranfer pump in, I'm sure performance was sufering a bit with the bad pump. It feels much smoother coming off the line. I suspect the injection pump is designed to operate with some pressure on the backside from the transfer pump.
 
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