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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Help finding engine knock

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) vp44 parts breakdown?

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SLightfoot said:
Why are they denying your warranty?



What is their explanation?



Post #30, 1 page back clarifies this a little, but I have not been able to get a very solid word on what their final determination is based on, just that it will not be covered. They haven't opened the engine yet, so it's not like they have any idea of the source of the problem or "proof" that a modification led to the failure.
 
Hey J Steve



I seem to be having the same problem as you. I cracked all my injector feeds one by one and the noise stayed, so I don't think I have the same problem as Dmannon does.



just curious if they've opened up you motor yet.
 
I've been meaning to get online to post an update. I've got the head off, and it's a scored #6 as suspected by many. I towed the truck back home after tiring from the many lies told to me by the dealership. I'm pulling the block in two weeks myself and getting #6 machined and sleeved. I'll also do new rings on the other 5 pistons, main/rod/cam bearings, check out the oilers while I’m in there and I'm having my injectors tested (DD3s) to be sure the source of the failure wasn't a wash out from a bad spray pattern. The head looks good, but I'll have someone go through it as well to be on the safe side. Anything I'm overlooking that I need to do? JLP, sorry if this is bad news, I hope you find a less expensive culprit.
 
This thread scared me originally... .



Now it is going to give me nightmares!! :{





It is a shame everything is so expensive to do. Especially to the point of having to scrap an entire truck and start over. I can see how the truck would still have to be worth an awful lot to make it cost effective to spend 7 to 8 thousand dollars on just the engine. Then you still have potential problems elsewhere (steering, trans. , rear, etc... . ).



With all the conversions you would think that any kind of swap would be possible if a good inexpensive replacement could be found (to include common rails).



I'm very interested to see how all this turns out.



Keep us informed J.
 
a buddy of mine is going to help me out with it. He wants me to pull the head and determine whether or not it's a scored cylinder, but he says he can get a whole engine for around 3k. Only problem is I might have to step down to a S. O. Not sure what problems I'll run into with this. Maybe I can swap out all the parts that go along with it?? I'll find out more later.



He's saying it'll cost me around $2500 to rebuild the one I have, but with his work load it'll probably be around 2 months to finish it. Not sure What I'm gonna do yet.



In the next couple of weeks, I'll probably pull the head and oil pan to find out exactly what's wrong. Gonna start with the oil pan and work my way up.





On a side note, I went and test drove a new truck today. All I have to say is wow... Only thing is. . it wasn't a dodge :eek:



The new chevys are unbelievalble... I won't go into details, because... after all, this is a dodge site.





okay, a little detail:



3500

4x4 dually

6 speed auto with manual option (this was the best part)

duramax (650 lb of torque)

lots of buttons



I wouldn't keep it after the warranty though
 
Well, it's been a long time since this thread was at the top, but some of you wanted to know what the outcome was... I finally sold the 01 with the knock and rebuilt lower end to a mechanic in Modesto.



Emailed him today to find out what he found; bad #5 piston. He said $300 in parts and 5 hours of his time, it sounds and runs great.



Live and learn... . :rolleyes:
 
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