Help, friend's 12V is stranded, losing prime and won't start!!

[WKener]

Hey guys, I have a friend of mine who just called to say he is stuck somewhere near Steamboat, CO (not exactly sure where), but he is fine, and has all the tools in the world, he just needs some info to get his '96 running again.

He put in a new fuel filter about 500 miles ago, and they are not sure what the problem is. He has tried priming it from back at the fuel filter, but no luck. I just got off the phone with him, and I think he said they pulled one of the injectors and there was indeed fuel coming out, but still won't start, just cranks and cranks. It's hard for me to explain, as I am not with the truck, he just called me for information, I told him I would get back to him. I know it would be hard to give me an answer, but if you have any ideas I would really appreciate it, as I am sure he would as well (non-TDR member, maybe that will change now!)

If you want any more information about the truck I can find out...



Thanks in advance

Wes

 

[Turbo Thom]

Wkerner:

As I'm sure you've read a million times on TDR, check the fuel cut off solinoid. It is mounted on the reart of the injection pump. Mine lost power when I had trouble but some folks just have their truck quit. The rubber boot rots and lets trash in the slide part of the unit and it will lock in the closed position when it is shut off. Mine would not open or close. He can take it off and clean it real well and maybe get home and get another boot or a new solinoid.

Hope he finds it .

Preston

 

[Joe G.]

Does he have the tools to check the timing? It may have slipped if he is getting fuel from the injectors and it won't start. Both valves on number one should be loose and both valves on number six should be tight when the timing pin goes into the hole. That's pretty close to TDC so the front delivery valve should have lifted at this point.



If he is really not getting fuel check to see that the fuel shut off solenoid is pulling up when he hits the starter. Usually even if the overflow valve or the return fuel line are shot it will start if you prime it with the manual push button on the lift pump. Might run lousy, but it will start. You might check by loosening the bleed screw in top of the fuel filter to see that plenty of fuel comes out there when you try to prime it with the manual button.

 

[HomerDog]

Wkerner,

I inserted a link to my post titled "Truck is hard to start--WHY?". Several people responded with ideas that may help you. Mine just did the same thing you described. I had to push the primer button about a 100 times to get it to start (use a screwdriver, it's a lot easier than your finger). My problem what the fuel shutoff relay AND the solenoid bad. Good luck









https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20291[/URL]

 

[Missouri Mule]

WKener

Did he open all the injectors or just one ( as in checking ot see of fuel was present or bleeding air from system) ?



If he was just checking for fuel present have him losen up one injector at time while engine is cranking until fue comes out.

Do this until engine starts (3 to 4 cylinders, if air in system should start by then).

 

[WKener]

He only checked one injector, and he said he primed it quite a bit... but nothing really helped at first. I was on the phone with him trying to help him locate the shutoff solenoid which was not moving when he cranked the starter... Culprit found. Got the truck started and drove home, and it has been working perfectly since. Go figure



Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Missouri Mule]

WKener,

Have your friend check out all the wires/connections going to fuel shut off solenoid relay and fuel shut off solenoid and of course check out the fuel shut off relay.



I don't think the fuel shut off solenoid was the problem but a broken wire, loose connection, or the relay starting to go.



Just to make sure it doesn't happen again.



Glad he got it going again.