Help...Front Crank Seal?

[SMorneau]

Got oil leaking from behind the balancer. The manual says how to replace it, but mentions a Pilot as part of kit and doesn't say if I need a puller for the balancer. It also says to drill two holes to facilitate removing the old seal. Anyone done this? Do I have to pull the radiator? Is it easy or a pain?

 

[DSiemens]

I would recommend that you pull the timing gear case cover. Here's the steps.

1)Pull Fan Shroud. Requires that you remove the coolent reservor and windshield washer tank.
2) Pull the fan. It's a beast and requires a special tools for the fan nuts.
3) Pull the vibration dampner.
4) You can now remove the gear cover.
5) If you have a pre 98 truck, do yourself a big favour and take a punch and smack the hole for the alignment dowell pin closed. It's just above the camshaft gear.
6) With the cover off, use a punch and drive out the old seal. It will be tight in there and the new one requires special locktight, green stuff.
7) Put the new seal in. For my 95 it's Cummins Part 4429353.
8) Put cover back on. There is a special alignment tool that fits over the crankshaft. It looks like it will never fit but it does. Two people are nice to have for this.
9) Put everthing back in place.

I highly recommend that you smack the dowell pin hole shut, mine viberated out and shot through the timing gear case. I got lucky that it didn't go through the gears and do the engine in.

Have fun.

 

[rhoads]

The seal is pressed in from the back side,and a tood neede to get to the correct depth,also if your shaft has a wear mark on the shaft your kit should be the one that has a speedy sleeve. and--most importantly after you get the timming cover back in place and tightened down rotate the crank about 2 complete turns before starting. . Like a big rig it CAN"T be installed from the front side.

 

[DSiemens]

The 95 service manual from DC gives instructions for putting these seals in with the cover on the truck which means they are coming in from the front, not the rear. I know that the service people at Cummins Mid Canada say they pull the cover when doing the seal because they find it easier. I think that because they are lock tighted in there and the seals are tough to drive out. I can't imagine pulling one out.

 

[C-Series-Man]

The seal will come out the front. It comes from Cummins with a plastic sleeve to aid getting it over the crank nose during reassembly. The easiest way to remove it is drill two small holes in the seal and pry it out. Usually the drilled holes weaken the seal's structure enough it comes out fairly easy. Installation depth is not as critical as you might think. Just get it as close to orginal as easily possible. If you do have a wear groove on the crank nose, just let the seal ride in a different spot if you don't want to but the wear sleeve. I don't think that it is worth taking to gear cover off to do. Distributors call most front seal leaks gear cover leaks because they get paid for the more costly repair especially under warranty. My 0. 02 worth.

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95 Ford F-350 4x4 Ext Cab, Cummins 6CTAA 8. 3, Fuller 9 Speed, Big Rig Heart in a Pick-up Truck

[This message has been edited by C-Series-Man (edited 02-28-2001). ]

 

[rhoads]

having had a front seal leak--and installed many on big rigs,fab'ed a press and tryed to install from the front IT WON't Work... ...
Remove the cover and install from the rear BEEN THERE TRY'ED it. .
the info relate'd to won't work from the front. take a empty tin can and beat on it and it bounce's and that is what happens on a 5. 9... .....
make a press and it kicks out and wont center from the front.
Think i am wrong ??you will never admit it not my lost down time or $$.
FROM THE REAR.

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

SMorneau
If your engine has less than 100K miles and is 5 years old or less, the repair will be covered under the engine warranty. N/C

[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 02-28-2001). ]

 

[JDinNY]

changed mine from the front. easy job. if ya pull your timing gear cover, you're wasting your time. good luck... .



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'95 xt cab,slt,4. 10,auto,285 BFG all terrain ko's on Centerline Extreme Billit Comet 3's,K&N,tst 230/605, silencer ring in top of toolbox, boost and pyro in full pillar mt. 167,650 mi and climbing... went to feed the cat and it was GONE !!!!!

 

[rhoads]

Been there -done -that. Twice and am not a rookie.
Cure from the rear.

 

[SMorneau]

I hate to admit it but I let the local Dodge dealer fix it. After trying for over an hour to get the f'in fan hub nut off I decided it was an omen of things to come!

It only cost me about $225 not including parts which I supplied. FYI: the mechanic pulled the cover and replaced the seal, staked and loctited the alignment dowel pin and retorqued the gear case bolts.

I hate letting other people work on my truck but I also have to drive it every day and sometimes I must spend money and trust others.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.