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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help Front Seal Crank install KDP Tab

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I am in the process of tabbing my KDP. About ready to go back together and the instructions for front seal are lacking - or I am!



There is a plastic stepped cone in the seal. I assume this is to aid in getting the seal over the crankshaft snout without bending or pinching the teflon seal and to insure it seats properly to the shaft. The front seal will be installed in the cover prior to reinstalling the cover. If so "What do you do with the plastic stepped cone once cover is installed" Just pull it from the seal out the front with PLIERS???



Also there is another seal of some sort that is of a smaller diameter than the bore in the front cover for front seal. Again I assume this just pushes onto the crank snout after front seal and cover are installed to maybe keep out excessive debris/grit/grime to protect the actual front seal??



For those interested mine is a 94, 3500, 4x4, 5sp, Box Stock,

118 k miles. The dowel pin had not moved, all other bolts under cover were tight. No failure was imminent but feels good to know I will not have to worry about it now. I used a special tab supplied by board member REBEL. I expect it to add 7 HP, Lower my EGT's by at least 250 deg. , and increase mileage 3 mpg.



Any guideance / help appreciated in advance.
 
You are correct sir, on all accounts.



Install the seal in the cover, the little cone thingy protects the seal, just pull it out when you are done. I had enough of mine to grab and pull by hand. The other is a dust cover. Slip it on after the cover is back in place.



Chris



edit: I used the same tab and you will only get 2 mpg increase due to the drag coefficient of the new seal which outweighs the increase from r. ebels tab.
 
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oil seal ????'s

I am in the process of tabbing the KDP. I have the new seal installed in the cover sitting on the bench. Just about ready to begin reassembly. I have a "few" questions.



1) Depth gauge/install tool. The seal is supposed to be installed from the rear according to the shop manual. I assume we check proper install depth of the seal from the rear side with the tool as well? The seal looks like in the right place to me gauging it from the rear surface of the cover anyways.



2) The plastic guide is stepped. It would appear to me that the larger ID is supposed to go on the crankshaft snout first and act as a guide. I am not sure that once the entire assembly is installed if it will be possible to pull out the guide with the larger step on the engine side of the timing cover.



3) I read on a previous post that the black dust cover is to be installed with the flat side facing out. Correct?



4) Should some sort of RTV be applied to the block side to assure a good seal with the timing gear cover gasket? The "gray goo" stuff? :)



Btw, the KDP doesn't appear to have moved, but the peace of mind is priceless!



Tim
 
Answered some of my own questions

OK, it appears that the "big" end of the plastic guide sleeve must go on the crankshaft first. I can only hope that I can pull it out once the cover is in place.



Still seems that some kind of RTV should be on the cover gasket to help with the seal. I would think that Permatex Blue would be acceptable in this application.



Keepin' the thread alive. :)



Tim
 
Don't use sealer on the gasket!!!!!

Trust me, I know. On the bright side, it came apart real fast the second time to remove it.



Be sure the seal and the crank are spotlessly clean, the seal is teflon coated for lubrication, oil can cause a leak.



The plastic guide centers the seal on the crank. Get a few bolts snugged down before removing it, it will come out easily by hand.



Seal depth is set by the tool.



Flat side of the dust cover goes out.



I hand ground my own tab from a post on the TDR, my HP doubled and my mpg went up by 1.
 
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