2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Help! Front Upper Shock Tower Stud Snapped Off

[Dave M]

Well... I was replacing my front shocks with Bilstein 2549's (and rear 2550's with two front Rancho RS5404 stabilizers). Since every job I do ends up ... Er... interesting, as usual one of the passenger side shock mount studs (the inside one toward engine) snapped while I was torqueing it to 55 Ft-Lbs with my torque wrench . I rebuilt my track bar with Lukes Link and replaced the track bar axle side bushing too. Got the death wobble so I'm attacking the front end, but I didn't need this. :{



It looks like the stud is buried under the spring so the spring has to come off. I'm trying to decide if I can repair it or take it to a tire/front end shop. How is the stud retained in the spring tower? Is it swaged or what? How does it come in and out?



Can I drive it about 10 miles to the tire/front end shop without snapping the other 2 studs on that side or should I tow it? Seems I should be able to make it if I'm carefull. What'll you guys think?



I have a strut spring compressor (Power Built brand from Kragen Auto Parts). It fits so do you think that will be strong enough to do the job?



The manual says..... Man this sounds like work! ... . to remove the upper suspension arm and loosen the lower suspension arm bolts. Disconnect the 4X4 front propeller shaft ( I guess thats the front driveshaft). Disconnect the track bar (I've done that before). Disconnect the drag link from pitman arm (I got pickle forks and 2 pitman pullers that should work). Disconnect stabilizer bar and shock from axle. Lower the axle and remove spring.



I may try it if I can get the stud in and out. I have hand tools but no presses or such. I'm not much on front end stuff but I'm willing to try it if I can complete the stud repair. Not sure where to get stud. Maybe NAPA.



I will call Sat morn (tomorrow) for an estimate from the shop. If any one has some words of wisdom I'd sure appreciate some help... I'm stressed out now. I was getting prepared to buy 6 new BFG KO 235/85R/16's. That's $1,000 with alignment.



Thanks for any help anyone can offer. I'll be checking in to TDR in the morning. Geez... . Not your typical shock job huh! Well maybe typical for me. :-laf



Dave

 

[B KIRK]

It's just a thin metal ring with 3 splined, flat headed studs pressed in. It will fall out when you remove the spring rubber. Probably have to get one at the dealer. Don't know if you can get one at an auto parts store. If you have a spring compressor, you may be able to drop front axle enough to remove it. Will have to remove the shock, and unbolt the sway bar on that side.



Brad

 

[Cigar John]

Just had mine apart to install Kore springs,it's not that bad.

I was able to get the old spring out by loosening the upper control arm bolts and removing the lower front control arm bolt.

Disconnect the sway bar.

Disconnect one end of the track bar.

Passenger side was easier.

Studs are on a ring under the spring rubber.

I wouldn't trust a spring compressor unless it was REAL strong.

 

[Glen Pratt]

For a 4x4 you won't need a spring compressor.

 

[Dave M]

Just had mine apart to install Kore springs,it's not that bad.

I was able to get the old spring out by loosening the upper control arm bolts and removing the lower front control arm bolt.

Disconnect the sway bar.

Disconnect one end of the track bar.

Passenger side was easier.

Studs are on a ring under the spring rubber.

I wouldn't trust a spring compressor unless it was REAL strong.

I just assumed I had to compress the spring. After reading the manual again I see it never says to compress the spring... so are you guys saying I don't have to? All I have to do is remove stuff and then lower the axle? I was afraid of compressing that spring anyhow.

For a 4x4 you won't need a spring compressor.

It looks like I just remove all the stuff mentioned and try to find the stud.



John, Did you have to disconnect the front driveshaft or not? Do I totally remove the sway bar on the pass side or just disconnect it from the frame... or just at the links? What do I use to pull it at the links?



Thanks for the replys. I'm gonna go for it myself.

 

[Cigar John]

All I have to do is remove stuff and lower the axle

Thats correct.

John,Did you have to disconnect the front driveshaft

or not ?

No I didn't.

It looks like I just remove all the stuff mentioned and try to find the stud.

Correct

Do I totally remove the sway bar on the pass side or just disconnect it from the frame... or just at the links? What do I use to pull it at the links?

Just remove the nut on the top of the link,no puller needed.

Thanks for the replys. I'm gonna go for it myself.

Good luck.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Looks like this. Pick the Dodge link in my signature and check out all my install articles... .



#ad

 

[Dave M]

Looks like this. Pick the Dodge link in my signature and check out all my install articles... .



#ad

Thanks for responding to all my questions. I feel better now about doing it. Boy!... That picture of the stud ring is great. Now I know exactly what it looks like. I'll check out your other install pics. This stuff is all new to me. Hope I don't break something else before I'm done.



Probably a good time to replace bushings on the control arms. Can't think of anything else to do while apart. I seen Summit has Energy Suspension kits for the control arms for $75... . seems high for 8 bushings. I think the old ones will need pressed out like my track bar bushing, so I probaby need to take them to a shop for that. Any hints on how to do it (sizes of sockets. . etc. My son is picking up a ball joint clamp tool today from Harbor Freight which might work.



Thanks for all your help, everyone. This site is great! I'll post when I get things apart today. The stud ring is a dealer item and naturally no dealer is open today, so It'll be a few days out of comission.



Any other thoughts from anyone on this go ahead and post.

Thanks again all.



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Just an update guys. I had too have my van towed home Saturday and I replaced the alternator. It was a major hassle to get out and in, so I didn't get to pulling the coil spring out. I'll try tomorrow nite after work. I'll find out tomorrow if the dealer can get me the shock tower stud ring. Heres some pics of the broken stud (Its the inside one on passenger side closest to engine). I'll update tomorrow.



Thanks for all the info. Anyone have a good source for a bushing set for the front?



Thanks,



Dave

 

[TMills]

I actually lost the whole ring while doing several spring/shock combinations on my truck. I just used three scres with lock nuts and washers. I think it is better than new and it has worked fine.

To get to the ring you do have to remove or compress the spring enough to get the rubber bushing out. I attached a spring compressor to the spring while there was weight on the front end. Then disconnected the sway bar and took out the shock and shock tower. I did not loosen anything else. I then lowered the front axle SLOWLY while watching for enough room to remove the spring. This will get you enough room to remove the ring from the top.

 

[Dave M]

I actually lost the whole ring while doing several spring/shock combinations on my truck. I just used three scres with lock nuts and washers. I think it is better than new and it has worked fine.

To get to the ring you do have to remove or compress the spring enough to get the rubber bushing out. I attached a spring compressor to the spring while there was weight on the front end. Then disconnected the sway bar and took out the shock and shock tower. I did not loosen anything else. I then lowered the front axle SLOWLY while watching for enough room to remove the spring. This will get you enough room to remove the ring from the top.

Sounds easier than removing everything. I ordered the spring ring from the dealer for $20. Should be in tomorrow. I have a spring compressor that will work but I hope it is beefy enough to handle it. Did you have a realy BIG spring compressor?... . it kinda scares me to use mine.



Good idea to attach the compressor while weight is on the front end. Did you tighten up on the spring compressor bolts alot or just attach it snug with the weight on the front end and then jack up the frame and and lower the axle on that side?



Did you just disconnect the link from the frame on the sway bar or remove the link completely and disconnect the sway bar from the frame on that end too? Or can I remove the sway bar bushing at the left and right on the front and leave the links alone?



Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try.



Dave

 

[TMills]

I got the spring compressor from the local parts store (it was a loaner). It did not look like it was made specially for heavy coils, I would say yours will work. I just got the spring compressor tight enough to stay on while I lowered the axle. I did tighten it, but did not compress the spring (I hope that makes since). I disconnected the sway bar from the links and removed the bushings.

 

[Dave M]

I got the spring compressor from the local parts store (it was a loaner). It did not look like it was made specially for heavy coils, I would say yours will work. I just got the spring compressor tight enough to stay on while I lowered the axle. I did tighten it, but did not compress the spring (I hope that makes since). I disconnected the sway bar from the links and removed the bushings.

Thanks for the info. That helps alot. I'm gonna try it as soon as the ring gets here... probably tomorrow nite.



Without looking at how the sway bar hooks up, I assume to disconnect the link from the sway bar I'll have to use a pittman puller or pickle fork. I know the link is threaded with a nut on the other end.



I appreciate the input you've given on this method of removing the spring.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[TMills]

They actually come off pretty easy. I did not need a puller of any kind.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Read this for some instruction.

 

[Dave M]

Coil Spring In/Out and Done!

Well, last nite I removed the passenger side coil spring to replace the broken shock tower stud ring. I decided to put coil compressors on the coil with the truck setting on the wheels to compress the coils... thanks to "TMills" for the suggestion. I just snugged up the compressors and did not tighten them more to compress the springs since the coil was compressed by the weight of the front end on the ground.



I completely removed the sway bar from the front by removing the 2 bushings on the frame and (leaving the sway bar links attached to the sway bar) disconnected the sway bar links (both left and right sides) from the axle bracket by removing the nut and rubber washers. Then I jacked up the left and right side of the frame with jack stands,on the frame rails behind the front axle, and put a jack stand under the drivers side front axle with a floor jack under the passenger side of the axle near the offending coil. Removed the wheel and lowered the axle till the coil came out. The axle had to be lowered close to the ground before the coil was free, so I was glad I compressed the coil first. Otherwise, I would have needed to raise the frame higher, I think.



I then removed the bad shock tower stud ring. I then found it easier to install the new "shock tower stud ring" temporarily into the coil upper frame support with the 3 tower nuts screwed on top to hold the ring in place because it kept falling off the top of coil... . since I was alone. . Then I inserted the coil and raised the axle. . while making sure the coil stayed aligned... kinda tricky by yourself. I removed the spring compressors and attached the shock tower and shock and put the sway bar back and was done. Also had to re-connect the AFE Stage 1 air filter box that was removed for better access to the top of the passenger side shock.



Tonight... The two steering stabilizer shocks will be replaced with Rancho RS5404's. Hope I don't break anything more :{ . Pics follow for those interested. I plan to post another thread on the total shock replacement.



Thanks to all for input on my problem. It wasn't as hard to remove the coil spring as I originally thought thanks to you TDR folks for help and encouragement.



Dave

 

[Dave M]

I completed my shock and steering stabilizer replacement last nite and I managed not to break anything. I replaced my two front steering stabilizer shocks with Ranch RS5404's. Tonight I'll replace the two front sway bar links and then determine if my tie rods and ball joints are good. Here a a few more pics of the shock job.



Thanks to all who helped on my problem.



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Well, Here are a few more pics of the new shocks before I started and the happy truck :-laf with shocks installed. Oo.



Enjoy,



Dave

 

[Yo Hoot]

Looks great Dave. I really enjoy the pictures.

 

[Dave M]

Looks great Dave. I really enjoy the pictures.

Glad you like them. You can see my 5 in SS exhaust tip on my 4 inch SS T409 MBRP exhaust. Not as BIG as your 5 inch pipes and 6 inch tip Oo. but I think it looks . Just showing off a little. :-laf



Dave