Help, how do I bleed the clutch hydraulic linkage?

[Arcticat]

When we were changing the clutch yesterday, I started the engine before I took off the OEM clutch and pressure plate so that we could get a feel for the amount of transfered vibration and then compare after we got the Sachs installed. Of course you need to depress the clutch to start up, and I stupidly did so without thinking of the repercussions of not having any load on the slave cylinder. Of course the slave cylinder blew up, and sent the pushrod flying, as well as a retainer spring that holds in a nylon cap that transferes the pressure of the fluid. I lost probably a little over an ounce of fluid. I put it back together (a ***** !) and reinstalled in the bellhousing, hoping for the best. The good news is that I can still get full release of the clutch, but there is about an inch of dead pedal before the pilot bearing exerts any pressure on the diaphragm spring. So, the truck is fully functional, but I would really like to get the pedal back to the original feel. The fluid level in the resivoir is unchanged, which makes me think there is air in the lines. So I figure bleeding the system is the next step. The service manual is no help on this, as they say that the entire system must be replaced if it is opened up in any way. I know somebody must have had to do this at some point. Got any ideas? Thanks

 

[RMHanes]

Seem to remember reading about this in a past issue of the magazine. Can not remember just how far back it was though. Not much help but at least it will be a start. Back issues are available. Will look through the stack that is sitting here and get back hopefully before too long.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Try removing the slave cylinder from it's mounting and position it so the tubing fitting is at the top, loosen the fitting and see if the fluid will free flow and purge the air out, if not or if there is no fitting(I understand this unit comes as an assembly)try holding the slave cylinder so the line coming in is on top and push the plunger all the way in, this should force the air back out through the master cylinder.
If the fluid line enters on the top then pushing the pedal to the floor and releasing a few times should remove the air.

[This message has been edited by B. G. Smith (edited 02-26-2001). ]

 

[Arcticat]

BG, I'll try pushing the plunger in, should I take the cap off the clutch fluid resivoir first? The fitting is a quick connect, so I can't just crack it to get a little flow.

RMH, did you get a chance to look yet at your back issues? I don't have very many issues. I appreciate it.

[This message has been edited by Arcticat (edited 02-26-2001). ]

 

[B.G. Smith]

Yes, I would loosen or remove the cap, be careful that you don't get the brake fluid in your eyes or on the paint. bg

 

[moparguy]

AC, I checked my back issues (used the back issue index on the TDR Homepage menu), found an article by Sam Memmolo in issue 23 on a clutch change during which he broke and repaired the line going to the slave cylinder. To bleed the system after the repair, Sam removed the top from the fluid reservoir, and with the slave cyl. unbolted and hanging, worked the push rod and piston in and out. The natural tendancy of air to rise bleed the system.

Good luck, Ronnie.